5103 hydro lift valve problem
- Thread starter usmc5595
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Any one have pics of how to pull out the valve in question????
deere5105
Veteran Member
- Joined
- May 6, 2009
- Messages
- 1,086
- Location
- South Mississippi
- Tractor
- 2008 John Deere 5303 MFWD, 2004 John Deere 5205
First make sure you don't accidentally have the draft lever up. If it is up it will override the rock shaft(lift arm) lever and will not let them lower.
it is not, i have tried every possible combo i can think of. the parts/service guy said that there was a proces for pulling the valve out and sanding/polishing it, like a "TSB" anyone seen this??
This valve looks complicated from the drawing
I have not been able to get the shredder off the hitch yetThis valve looks complicated from the drawing
I took the control valve apart but can not figure out what part needs the attention. I sanded the part that looked rusted but when I put it back together as soon as it got to the top (lift arms) it quit and locked at the top.
I need help quick.
Can't afford 800.00 for a new valve
Last edited:
RPW
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2009
- Messages
- 1,105
There is also a valve under the seat that controls the drop rate. If it's closed off the 3pt won't drop.
I can not take credit for the following as I found it on another web-site. Please note the comment on wear eye protection!
"My 5103 with just under 400 hours did the same thing. I hooked up the brush hog and it would not go down. First I made sure the levers turned the respective shafts. The rest of the hydraulics worked fine. I figured a valve was stuck. The unit has a lock for the 3 pt., which also can control the rate of drop. It's under the seat on the right side, make sure it's not turned all the way in. I next put jack stands under the mower, then removed the seat. Seat removal consists of two 3/4" bolts, the seat needs to be moved forward and back to access them. I then blew off the dirt and crude around the housing, removed (slowly) the three allen screws hold the housing on. When the cover reaches a certain point, about 1/4" away from the transmission the pressure will release. Where eye protection! The jack stands allowed a very small amount of hydraulic fluid to blow out, otherwise the full stroke of the hydraulics would have blown out. Next remove both valves and look for rust, mine had rust on them, a very small amount that I was able to clean off with a rag. I put things back together and it worked fine. I feel the problem may lie with the super thin gasket they use, Moisture can get in and corrode the "dry side" of these valves.
The repair took 15 minutes."
"My 5103 with just under 400 hours did the same thing. I hooked up the brush hog and it would not go down. First I made sure the levers turned the respective shafts. The rest of the hydraulics worked fine. I figured a valve was stuck. The unit has a lock for the 3 pt., which also can control the rate of drop. It's under the seat on the right side, make sure it's not turned all the way in. I next put jack stands under the mower, then removed the seat. Seat removal consists of two 3/4" bolts, the seat needs to be moved forward and back to access them. I then blew off the dirt and crude around the housing, removed (slowly) the three allen screws hold the housing on. When the cover reaches a certain point, about 1/4" away from the transmission the pressure will release. Where eye protection! The jack stands allowed a very small amount of hydraulic fluid to blow out, otherwise the full stroke of the hydraulics would have blown out. Next remove both valves and look for rust, mine had rust on them, a very small amount that I was able to clean off with a rag. I put things back together and it worked fine. I feel the problem may lie with the super thin gasket they use, Moisture can get in and corrode the "dry side" of these valves.
The repair took 15 minutes."
JET5
New member
I am having the same issue with my 2007 5103 JD the three point hitch is stuck in the up postion and I have read through these post hoping to find a solution before I hauled her to the dealership. Can someone help and let me know what the resolution was to this problem?
JET5
New member
Thanks I will try this.
I had the same problem. I to have a 2007. I bought a new rock-shaft valve $670.00 but that did not fix it either. There was a nut that had came loose inside the housing not the valve (behind the valve on the rock-shaft). It was a $0.40 cent repair. This is not normally the case. The mechanic who is very good said that it the first one he had ever seen that had done that. It is normally the rock-shaft valve. I have one for sale ($250.00) because I bought a new one and installed it only to find out that was not the problem. There is also a guide somewhere on how to take the old one apart and clean/buff it. I think that the problem comes from condensation in the fluid, which creates rust if it sits for a long time.
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