5105 Starting Problem

[texstrk426]

Jim;

OK thanks for that input. One of my problems is that the tractor is currently inside our barn with a group of huge heavy 6V batteries on a pallet in front of the front-end loader of the tractor. If I decide to tow the tractor it will have to be first pulled out of the barn backwards. It can be done but will have to be done in dry weather so my pickup won't bog down in wet soil. My pickup is a Dodge with Cummins diesel and the front end is very heavy tending to sink down in wet soil and does not have 4-wheel drive. However it remains as an option.

My thanks to everyone who has offered suggestions!

Joe

 

[texstrk426]

Update on the starting issue with the 5105 all-wheel-drive: I have had to frequently prime the injector pump in order to get it to start. It appears that once the fuel level in the tank drops to some level less than 3/4 tank on the fuel gauge that the injector pump loses its prime. The condition is worse in cool temperatures. When temperatures are low, even bleeding the injector pump will not get it started. I found that if I heat the injector pump with a heat gun for a few minutes that it will start OK after bleeding.

Some months ago I did find that connections from the ignition switch to the relay that sends voltage to the injector pump wire were corroded. I took time to clean the connections of the relay and the wire lugs that connect to the relay. I used some fresh chassis grease to keep oxygen and moisture away from the connections after the cleaning procedure. The starting issue did not change however, so although it was good to clean the connections, that was not the problem. There is one other relay just like the one for the ignition and you can swap them for a test, but that makes no difference in starting either. I consistently see 12VDC to the connection on the injector pump with ignition turned on.

There are two fuel lines that connect to the injector pump other than the ones from the pump to the injectors. One line connects to the top of the pump and the other connects to the center of the back side of the pump near the injector lines. I think the line connecting at the rear of the pump is the one from the fuel tank. What is the other line? Is it a return line to the fuel tank to bleed off fuel that is not being injected to the cylinders?

The tractor was at my dealer recently to repair the rockshaft assembly (spool valve was replaced to correct arms stuck in up position). While the dealer had the tractor they said they never had trouble starting the tractor. I made sure it had a full tank of fuel before it was picked up.

One tech at my dealer said that he thinks the injector pump either needs to be rebuilt or replaced based on my description of the starting issues the tractor exhibits. I have a diesel pickup too and a number of experts on the pickup say that rebuilt injector pumps do not last long and that a new pump is the best and longest lasting cure if an injector pump goes bad.

If the injector pump is replaced, are there any special precautions about how the new pump goes on the engine? Is there a keyed shaft that only mates one way or can it be reinstalled with shaft 180 degrees off and mess up timing?

Joe

 

[JD5210]

We have the same engine. I have attached a page from the engine manual ctm125 that should answer your question on lines connected to the injection pump and how to remove the pump. I do suggest you purchase ctm125.

Here is a post you may find informative. Must admit I am not a fan of using either.
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...hn-deere-5103-starting-issues.html?highlight=

Before removing the injection pump here is a couple things I would try; 1) Make sure the water separator on the fuel filter is closed; 2) Make sure the fuel filter is on tight; 3) Close the fuel shut-off, then disconnect the fuel line from the tank at the fuel filter and make sure you have a good flow of fuel from the tank. You should NOT need to bleed the tractor after doing this; 4) Remove the fuel tank cap, then using compress air from the engine side blow out the fuel return line. I have attached a picture that shows where this is, taken from TM1792. I read post that a person said this was their problem; 5) If you can get it started. After turning off close the shut-off at the fuel filter. Let the tractor sit for hour or 2. Then see, if it starts. It will only run for a few seconds, because the fuel shut off is closed and you will need to bleed it, but if does start the problem is between the tank and the fuel line.

 

[texstrk426]

JD5210

Thanks for the *.pdf files! I will study the information and familiarize myself with all the parts of the system shown therein. After that I will be much better prepared to diagnose the real cause of the trouble.

We just had a cool front blow through this morning and from past experience with the issue, it will become more difficult to start when it is 48 degrees F in the morning.

Joe

 

[workinonit]

I had a 5310 for 18 years and worked on many issues over the years. It sounds like you do have some sort of fuel flow issue but I was thinking there could be some problem with the fuel shutoff solenoid. It maybe failing closed when it gets cold. I agree with 5210 that you should go through the steps to make sure you don't have restricted fuel flow first. If that is your issue it won't break the bank to repair it. If you find the fuel delivery system is good then the last option I see is removing the IP and taking it to someone to have it repaired.