56 HP Kubota clutch repair costing $5k

   / 56 HP Kubota clutch repair costing $5k #11  
Is a HST transmission more durable than a standard clutch for mowing applications these days? It would seem like a no brainer to spend another $1-2k up front for the HST if it's going to outlast a clutch that is going to cost $5K at 730 hours. Wouldn't you typically expect more life from a clutch than 730 hours?
Technically no because once a real transmission is engaged there’s no ”wearing” surfaces when your moving/mowing. It’s all the stop and go and engaging the clutch that wears out a the clutch. The HST is several moving parts activated by hydro fluid. Other thing to consider is you’ve got to hold the peddle on the HST and you loose power HP to HP vs a real geared tractor.

And heaven forbid you break a hydro transmission if you think 5k is bad for a clutch.
 
   / 56 HP Kubota clutch repair costing $5k #12  
I do believe even a hydrostat has a clutch, not sure however as I don't have one.
 
   / 56 HP Kubota clutch repair costing $5k #13  
I’ve had both. Each have their best use depending on your type of work. Haven’t had much trouble from either. DIY clutch in Ford 860 no problem. Had problems with the manual three speed transmission on a hydrostatic B20.

Much prefer my hydrostatic tractors now for mowing my hillside farm. With infinite gearing always have the best gearing. Do other high precision FEL and attachments work that appreciate the smoothness and power from HST.

One is not better than the other. Each have their strong points and cons.
 
   / 56 HP Kubota clutch repair costing $5k #14  
Labor rates (shop rates) have gone through the roof as well as replacement parts costs and a dealer will always use OEM parts anyway and like was stated previously, splitting a tractor for a clutch replacement is all labor anyway. Far as the comment about 'peeling away' the AC system on a split, there is a lot of other components that require 'peeling away' besides the AC.
That is true about peeling away components, but on many systems, the condenser can be slid out from in front of the radiator and the compresser removed from the engine without breaking the seals on the hoses. At this point, you merely lay both on the floor or hang on the cab.
Trust me, I've personally split many cab units this way.
 

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