Buying Advice 6 Acres - What to buy? Rider/ZTR/SCUT? Teach me wise ones!

[jeff9366]

Can a Zero Turn mower pull a 4' X 4' or 6' X 4' drawbar chain harrow for disbursing manure in a pasture?

 

[Jchonline]

But if you decide to go with a SCUT, you'll get more for your money with blue than orange.

Fair enough. I should not be making brand recommendations, I agree. Any CUT around that size is what I would look at.

 

[4570Man]

Can a Zero Turn mower pull a 4' X 4' or 6' X 4' drawbar chain harrow for disbursing manure?

Probably so, although not ideal. Nobody is claiming a ZTR any good at anything except mowing.

 

[dragoneggs]

Talking color is a waste of time at this juncture. Also a ZT with nice seat suspension can be more comfortable compared to a tractor.

With the OP's lot size, and aspirations to do more than mow... it seems a SCUT/CUT is the way to go whether it is a tow behind mower or a belly mower. I still say the best would be to get a ZT even if it is later in the process. It will definitely save time which is 'money' for many of us.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Dragoneggs and I think alike, we both have BX 25s. As he says not much sense in having a huge finished lawn (TX and water?), Starting up a new place you will be surprised how much you will use the BH. Like irrigation trenches, drainage, planting trees, and etc. I went through the same process you are with budget a big consideration. Keep the lawn down to what is feasible with a big box store riding mower and get the SCUT wBH. BX now 23 will be around 20K with the BH and a couple implements. Used implements are easier to find than a good used tractor. Used SCUTS are not much less than new ones. !500 hours an no major issues I could't fix my self. Do your own maintenance. My BH probably has 750 hrs just for it. Not renting equipment has saved over that. Just don't get in a hurry, the capability is there just slower.

Ron

 

[CrionLord]

Awesome thoughts here guys. I wasn稚 really thinking about how a ZTR would ride on the pasture. That痴 definitely a good point.

I would prefer a SCUT or CUT I just don稚 know what quality machines I can really afford in that class/size. If I go ahead and get the Tractor now and I work my way up slowly with a cheap rider and then a decent ZTR for the lawn once I get things a little more smoothed out that I think will work best for me.

The ground clearance issue is kind of a mixed bag for me. I壇 like my wife to feel comfortable driving the tractor but she seems intimidated by the higher machines. But looking at the smaller CUTS they seem pretty approachable and the few extra inches is probably all I need to get around without getting hung up on stuff. I was reading that itç—´ easier to uses a post hole digger if youæ±*e PTO is a little higher off the ground and that would certainly come in handy since I will be replacing most of the existing fence.

There seems to be so many different frame sizes and HP ratings in the 20-30HP tractor range itç—´ hard to sort the value out from the noise. I keep hearing the same brands over and over: Kioti, Mahindra, LS, with Kubota and JD on the pricey side but still good quality.

I think I need to look closer at Tractors in that range before I go for a ZTR but don稚 you worry I will nab me one of those eventually

 

[4570Man]

I don’t think the ZTR will ride any worse than the little tractor. If you upgrade seats on the mower or slow the ground speed to equal the mowing time of the tractor I know which one will ride smoother. Or you could get a Ferris with suspension and upgrade the seat. You can buy used commercial mowers for a couple-few grand. I’d take a half worn out commercial ZTR over a box store mower any day.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Awesome thoughts here guys. I wasn稚 really thinking about how a ZTR would ride on the pasture. That痴 definitely a good point.

I would prefer a SCUT or CUT I just don稚 know what quality machines I can really afford in that class/size. If I go ahead and get the Tractor now and I work my way up slowly with a cheap rider and then a decent ZTR for the lawn once I get things a little more smoothed out that I think will work best for me.

The ground clearance issue is kind of a mixed bag for me. I壇 like my wife to feel comfortable driving the tractor but she seems intimidated by the higher machines. But looking at the smaller CUTS they seem pretty approachable and the few extra inches is probably all I need to get around without getting hung up on stuff. I was reading that itç—´ easier to uses a post hole digger if youæ±*e PTO is a little higher off the ground and that would certainly come in handy since I will be replacing most of the existing fence.

There seems to be so many different frame sizes and HP ratings in the 20-30HP tractor range itç—´ hard to sort the value out from the noise. I keep hearing the same brands over and over: Kioti, Mahindra, LS, with Kubota and JD on the pricey side but still good quality.

I think I need to look closer at Tractors in that range before I go for a ZTR but don稚 you worry I will nab me one of those eventually

Second thought: You noted previously that your were a learning wrench turner. The closeness of a dealer, (if they have a good shop crew) is an important consideration. I assume you do not have a suitable trailer to haul a tractor. A trailer is another $2-3K. Dealers love those haul fees; another profit center.

Ron

 

[jeff9366]

There seems to be so many different frame sizes and HP ratings in the 20-30HP tractor range it is hard to sort value from noise.

The most efficient way to shop for tractors is to define potential tractor applications first, then determine bare tractor weight necessary to safely accomplish your tasks. Your primary tractor task is pasture mowing.

The fundamental importance of TRACTOR WEIGHT eludes many tractor shoppers. Heavier tractor weight is more important for most tractor applications than increased tractor horsepower. Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models, new and used.

Shop your weight range within tractor brands. Budget will eliminate some choices. Collect a dealer brochure for each tractor model in your weight range. I spreadsheet tractor and implement specs, often a revealing exercise. I have a column for cost per pound.

Selling a used tractor is easy. Selling multiple light implements in order to buy heavier, wider implements for a heavier tractor requires a lot of time. Depreciation on implements is generally greater than depreciation on a tractor.


Heavier tractors are constructed with a longer wheelbase and are built using thicker steel to withstand greater stress. Heavier tractors are more stable under load. Heavier tractors have larger wheels/tires. Heavier tractors with large diameter wheels/tires have more tractive power pulling ground contact implements, pushing a loader bucket into dirt and pushing snow. Large wheels and tires increase ground clearance, enabling a heavier tractor to bridge holes, ruts and tree debris with less bucking and less operator disturbance.

Very generally, subcompact tractor have 7" to 9" ground clearance and a bare tractor weight of 1,300 to 1,500 pounds.

Small compact tractors, exemplified by the Kubota 'B' series, have 12"+ ground clearance and a bare tractor weight of 1,600 to 2,500 pounds.

Within subcompact and compact tractor categories, a significant tractor capability increase requires a bare tractor weight increase of 50%. It takes a 100% increase in bare tractor weight to elicit MY-OH-MY!

Most tractors under 3,000 pounds bare weight operate in residential or hobby farm applications on one to ten flat acres.


For mowing, horsepower should be your second consideration. Every increment of increased mower width requires an increase in tractor horsepower. A 26-horsepower Kubota 'B' will operate a 60" pasture Rotary Cutter cutting a full width swathe in pasture grass to 30" tall.


VIDEOS (4): Kubota BX Series VS. B Series - YouTube

Kubota B261 VS Kubota B265 - YouTube

Comparing Finish Mowers (midmount VS 3-point) - Kubota B261 - YouTube

Brush mower features with the Land Pride RCR1872 - YouTube

 

[Diggin It]

I would prefer a SCUT or CUT I just don稚 know what quality machines I can really afford in that class/size.

The ground clearance issue is kind of a mixed bag for me. I'd like my wife to feel comfortable driving the tractor but she seems intimidated by the higher machines. But looking at the smaller CUTS they seem pretty approachable and the few extra inches is probably all I need to get around without getting hung up on stuff.

I keep hearing the same brands over and over: Kioti, Mahindra, LS, with Kubota and JD on the pricey side but still good quality.

I think I need to look closer at Tractors in that range before I go for a ZTR but don稚 you worry I will nab me one of those eventually

Mine came to a little over $18K with the backhoe and 48" tiller. Without those two, it would have been around $13K or less as I recall. The JD 1025R I priced was a little over $17K with FEL and MMM only. Kioti and Mahindra were over $20K with FEL, BH and MMM and the Massey was around $18K or so.

If she can drive a riding mower, she can drive a SCUT. There is very little difference other than more power and a few more controls. So far, the diesel has started as easily as any gas rider. Getting on and off takes a bit bigger and higher step to get over the MMM, but it's not bad. That shouldn't be an issue unless she's very short.

One thing to keep in mind (that may start another debate). If you consider a SCUT with a Backhoe, look at how it's mounted and how it is removed. Some require the subframe to be removed before you can use a MMM. Others don't - ten minutes or so to separate and go. You don't want to mow with the BH attached, but you don't want to have to remove/install a large subframe every time either.