6000 forward/reverse grind

[Slippy]

Last summer I thought my clutch was going out as I had to let the clutch out almost all the way before it would take, and when shifting the forward reverse lever, it would grind. We split the tractor and found the output shaft was bent, replaced some bearing, and put in whole new clutch assembly.
But, that has not solved the problem.
When I move the forward reverse lever very fast, it will grind. If I do it slow, it is usually fine. Is that something in the transmission that needs to be replaced? Is there any kind of adjustment that can be done to eliminate the problem?

 

[jwcinpk]

I too have the same problem on my 6000. I can't make mine not grind unless I come to a complete stop and ever so delicately reverse direction with the lever. I'm sure the grinding isnt good for it, but the dealer said it's pretty normal. Mine has less than 50 hours on the new clutch.

 

[sellercreek]

Be sure your transmission fluid is topped off. Mine doesn't grind but it is harder to shift if the fluid is even a little bit low.

 

[Slippy]

Mine did not do it when it was new. I have about 1000 hours on it and it didn't start until about 50 hrs ago. I really thought it was the clutch becasue I had very little left as you let the clutch out. As it turned out, the clutch probably had a 1/4 to a 1/3 life left in it.

I also need to pretty much come to a stop. I don't have a service manual, but I would bet there has to be some type of syncro in the transmission that allows this to happen. I don't think it is normal. I am concerned that it will wear the gear teeth down, shavings in the transmisson, or break off a tooth.

My fluid is always keep above the normal level to accomidate my back hoe.

 

[sellercreek]

On my 6000, the transmission and hydraulic systems are separate and require different oils. I never find any obvious leaks, but the transmission fluid level goes down some every 30 hours or so.

 

[BobG_in_VA]

I too have the same problem on my 6000. I can't make mine not grind unless I come to a complete stop and ever so delicately reverse direction with the lever. I'm sure the grinding isnt good for it, but the dealer said it's pretty normal. Mine has less than 50 hours on the new clutch.

Gentlemen, as you know the trans in the 6000 4WD is syncro...however it is NOT powershift...in other words, you have to come to a complete stop prior to shifting from forward to reverse,,,if I read your post correctly. My 6000 doesn't have but about 370 hours on it, but I've not had any problems such as you speak of...I changed the trans gear oil at 250 hours...how about you guys?? BobG in VA

 

[jwcinpk]

Yeah I know it's not designed like a powershift, but even at a complete stop mine grinds. Worse now with the new clitch than before the old one crapped out. Worse if I am using the hand throttle to any extent.

 

[Slippy]

When we split the tractor we changed all the filters and fluids.
Even changed the front axle fluid.
Even when I come to a complete stop, it will still grind if you don't baby it.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

The clutch is not disengaging, think about it, if you are stopped, the gears should be stopped. But if it still grinds, something is still moving, parts can't be moving unless the clutch is engaged.

 

[jwcinpk]

Makes sense. Thus it's turning faster and having a harder time engaging when it's throttled up. Think I'll adjust a bit.

 

[BobG_in_VA]

You know, I'm wondering if the shuttle shift linkage needs adjustment////I'll check the parts manual later and see if I can find where that lever hooks into and if an adjustment screw/hookup is there (kind of sounds like it just isn't going in all the way (however the clutch should be adjusted as well). BobG in VA

 

[Slippy]

I really do not think it is a clutch issue. The gear shift and the high low range shifter work fine, no clutch issue, no grinding, etc. I would think that if it is the clutch, like you are driving in one gear and then clutch to change gears, if the clutch was not working properly you would expect grind at that point, but I have none, that works fine.
It must be a syncro in the transmission, or something out of adjustment.
I did contact Mahindra through their chat room...no help. I had to answer numerous questions first, and then they told me it is a technical question and wanted to know who my dealer was so they could contact them.

 

[Sergei]

I was wondering if the type of transmission oil being used might help make a different in the problem people are commenting on. I know Amsoil has a Synthetic Tractor Hydraulic/Transmission Oil they sell.

 

[BobG_in_VA]

I was wondering if the type of transmission oil being used might help make a different in the problem people are commenting on. I know Amsoil has a Synthetic Tractor Hydraulic/Transmission Oil they sell.

The 6000 uses 90W in the trans/diff and has a separate hyd. res.for hyd fluid. Don't think the hyd/trans oil would meet the 90W standard. BobG in VA

 

[tractorboy5500]

Hey guys, this might help, havent looked in the manual in a while, but i do think it says when checking or adjusting the clutch, when pushing down on the clutch pedal it should move about 5/8" of an inch before it starts to diengage the clutch, so if you have more travle than 5/8" then you might not be disengaging the clutch all the way. Just tring to help, and hope this helps all. good luck.