6013 vs 7014 vs 7018

[BukitCase]

Glad to help; I really like your fume setup, got most of the stuff to make one now I just need to find a few more of those circular things called "tuit"

I really should get that done, couple years ago I actually found myself laying on the ground after mig welding a stainless bolt to a mild steel square to make a gate hinge. Hexavalent Chrome poisoning is NO JOKE, just one dumb-azz mistake and it took a couple minutes before I could walk without falling over... Steve

 

[GeneV]

Glad to help; I really like your fume setup, got most of the stuff to make one now I just need to find a few more of those circular things called "tuit"

I really should get that done, couple years ago I actually found myself laying on the ground after mig welding a stainless bolt to a mild steel square to make a gate hinge. Hexavalent Chrome poisoning is NO JOKE, just one dumb-azz mistake and it took a couple minutes before I could walk without falling over... Steve

Oh wow, that is no joke yeh!

Bukit, if you didn't buy the ductwork yet, you could do just using flexible duct with the duct fan, super easy! The flexible duct is like $20 for 25 ft. If I was to build the extractor again, I'd just do that, hang a section of it over my welding station, and the rest just drape on my table nearby, routing it to out the window.

 

[BukitCase]

Pretty much my intent; probably 7-8 years ago (remember that "tuit" I mentioned?) I bought about 12' of 8" ducting (basically oversized shopvac hose) and an 8" duct fan - found a free range hood, actually know where those parts are

Will most likely fab a fairly simple paralellogram frame from lightweight 1" square tube for the range hood (vertical adjustment only) and make one of the joints using a wing bolt (piece of 1/4" round rod welded on the head of a bolt) so I can lock the hood in position without tools...

The GOOD news - my brain still works fine coming up with ideas for projects @ 75; The NOT so good news - the speed DIFFERENCE between brain and body keeps getting bigger

Back to the GOOD news - my eldest grandson (22) LOVES to come over and learn all the stuff today's moronic excuse for schools DON'T teach, actually WANTS to learn/help/do - short of finding the REAL "fountain of youth", can't GET any better than that... Steve

 

[GeneV]

I like the sound of ALL that, man! At 75, you're allowed to slow down the pace a bit bud, you earned it.

 

[Oldpath05]

Before mig I mostly tacked with 3/32 7014, if the joint had gaps I switched over to 6011welded with that, it washes out to joining material easier and is great with rusty steel, 7014 if not careful is easier to get slag intrusion, it's not a penatrating rod but is a strong rod. If I had tight joint and lot of flat welding I went with 5/32 7014.

If I had out of position welding to do and want high strength I went with 7018-10018 cause it also washes out to material easier. 6013 also is easer to get slag intrusion and its a weaker rod compared to 7014...

 

[user.69169]

Pretty much whole electric with coated rod started wid Mr Lincoln's Fleetweld. Often thought he knew next evolution in ship building would be welded hull. John Odenbach & John Catternac developed hull building wid Fleetweld, great flat rod but a nightmare vertical by rotating de hull, and patented process. Patent mentions de problems and Fleetweld. Dey got started by building barges in 26 and stuck wid Lincoln.

Fleetweld became Fleetweld 5 and I think is all the way to 5P++ now. Its a good rod and guarantee you gonna weld wid it the way the rod wants to run or you gonna grind. It's Fast Freeze and dat works nice on root pass, but notsomuch on caps.
Also leaves plenty of lumps inside de pipe and while nobody will verify produces de weld seals de pipes together.

Probably 2/3 de world caps wid 6013 which works fine. Sure many tons made every day and dem rods ain't loungin on loading docks. 6013 got its own way of running, dang short arc, and as welded is about the same as 7018 as welded when you lay specs side by side.

As welded, 7018 is more ductile den 6013, so if de weld itself gonna move and stretch over service life 7018 might be better.

E-70 s6 wire gives you bout same weld as 7018 rod, IF de weld is made correctly. It sure replacing a lot of stick on automated pipe work firing lines.

This page got some pretty good information on understanding rods
Are You Using The Right Rods? | Welding Supplies from IOC

 

[Jstpssng]

^^^^
You seem to know something, but choose to write like a dervish instead. It's too bad that you don't care to share what you know, because some of us could benefit from it.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

I personally, and frequently recommend that 7014 be a farm staple rod, since so many shops have deplorable storage conditions. Even for homeowners the recommendation is the same. No, 7014 doesn't have quite the ductility of 7018, but in theory about the same strength. It is known as a "fab" rod, not just because it welds fabulously, but also because it is an iron powder rod, and lays down quickly while providing satisfactory penetration and utility and is used historically for fabrication purposes for building everything from Firewood Boxes, to box blades. Most older farm equipment that was welded back in the 60's, 70's and early 80's was welded with a 7014 until MIG took over. I know of a trailer manufacturer that was still using stick to build their trailers over in NW AL at least until the last few years. Not sure if is still true or not, but they've supplied the Southeast with many trailers. The 7014 bead would be hard to distinguish from MIG in many cases in the hands of an expert.

What most people don't figure on is that unless in a sealed METAL vacuum can, 7018's aren't Lo-Hy until they are baked. And even though they aren't you still pay a premium price for it. I buy 7014 for about a 30% price break from 7018. Now, while that may not be much to people and there are still people going to tout "ductility" of the 7018 over the speed, ease of use, arc restriking ease, and general great bead appearance of the 7014, I believe that for the average user who is going to make shop repairs, and budgeted builds, 7014 still is a perfect rod to keep around and use.

 

[GeneV]

Before mig I mostly tacked with 3/32 7014, if the joint had gaps I switched over to 6011welded with that, it washes out to joining material easier and is great with rusty steel, 7014 if not careful is easier to get slag intrusion, it's not a penatrating rod but is a strong rod. If I had tight joint and lot of flat welding I went with 5/32 7014.

If I had out of position welding to do and want high strength I went with 7018-10018 cause it also washes out to material easier. 6013 also is easer to get slag intrusion and its a weaker rod compared to 7014...

Old path, what does that mean, washes out? Chipping off slag?

 

[GeneV]

Guys, thanks everybody for the tips. Mark, that's a real interesting point about 7018, good to know thank you! I bought 2 lbs of 7018 from harbor freight, the packaging it came in wasn't airtight to begin with, and I'm just storing the stuff in one of those "airtight" (NOT) plastic welder storage things I got from Menards. So whatever magic the 7018 possesses I'm sure to not benefit from. In my green hands, 7018 welded more or less like 6013, and the welds at least looked about the same.

I'm sure I'm just splitting hairs even asking questions about various rods, at least for what I'm doing around here with my welder. I imagine 6010/11 definitely something to have on hand. And then 6013 or 7014...or even some poorly-stored 7018, it wouldn't even matter which probably, for my uses.