'73 MF135 Perkins diesel AD3.152 help

[zslnk]

Wells VR715 or import replacement.

Here is a pic of mine. It provides solid state voltage regulation to the externally regulated alternators without any wiring changes. Modern regulator, no contacts, no over/under charging, no wiring changes.

 

[The kid]

Some tractors had an alternator with an external regulator. Delco 10DN. Mine was born with this configuration and I simply replaced the external regulator with a solid state version that looks the same and plugs right in. It was less than $25.

It regulates like a modern alternator with solid state internal regulation but looks stock.

That 10DN alternator will set you back anywhere from $85 to $150 if you ever have to replace it. The Delco 10SI which doesn't require external regulation can be found working used at a junk yard for $10 or new for less that $50. Either way would work. One way is cheaper though. A 10DN would probably have to be ordered. Not very common just as the Genny. The SS VR is around $20 +shipping.

 

[zslnk]

Sure, but I had a 10DN and didn't like the crappy regulation. For $25 my problem was solved and my tractor looks like the way it did the day it rolled off the line without a mangled wiring harness like most 'restorations'.

 

[The kid]

Sure, but I had a 10DN and didn't like the crappy regulation. For $25 my problem was solved and my tractor looks like the way it did the day it rolled off the line without a mangled wiring harness like most 'restorations'.

I'm not saying it's not as good. I mentioned the cost difference if your alternator fails you could then switch over. As I mentioned to lug nut. A lot of folks will leave the existing VR to maintain an original look and use it as a tie point. I started to, but mine looked pretty rough and didn't want to put the effort into restoring the looks of something that was replaced. It's good to know that there is a solid state version out there at a reasonable price.

 

[lugnut1009]

Haven't done much with my tractor lately. But I did just leave the dealership, I ordered the hydraulic cover so I can take off this auxiliary hydraulic junk.

 

[lugnut1009]

Well, I picked up my cover from the dealer yesterday, thought it would be a simple replacement. And it would've been if one of the two allen bolt heads didn't strip out... I guess after almost 40 years it's gotten a little rusted and stuck. I guess I'll get some new bolts and drill this one out.

 

[MasseyWV]

Well, I picked up my cover from the dealer yesterday, thought it would be a simple replacement. And it would've been if one of the two allen bolt heads didn't strip out... I guess after almost 40 years it's gotten a little rusted and stuck. I guess I'll get some new bolts and drill this one out.

Rust is a common problem on these old tractors, and I've had more than a few stuck and/or broken bolts to contend with myself. Before drilling it out you might want to consider welding a nut onto it and using a wrench for removal.

 

[lugnut1009]

Well this one is recessed over an inch deep.

I can take the rear bolt out and move the hydraulic assembly, the bolt is free on the threads, it is rusted around the head inside the recessed hole. I filled it with penetrating oil and left it hoping it will free it up a little. But the only solution I really see is drilling it out. I really need about a 3/8" left hand drill bit, so hopefully it won't drill it all the way out before it gets it loose and backs it out.

 

[MasseyWV]

Well this one is recessed over an inch deep.

That changes everything, and I agree that welding a nut to it under those circumstances would be impossible.

Have you considered using an easy out, also called screw/bolt extractors? Avoid the cheap junk and use a good set like those made by Irwin for the best results. Another thing I've found that sometimes helps, is to take a piece of rod and lightly hammer the top of the stuck bolt prior to removal, the shock helps to dislodge the rust.

 

[lugnut1009]

I tapped on it quite a bit with the 5/16" standard allen wrench I was using with no help. I was going to try an EZ out but I couldn't find the right one at my house. And instead of buying an EZ out I'd rather just buy a left hand drill bit and be assured to get it out one way or the other. I even took a very thin punch and tapped tiny holes around the edge of the bolt to try to help the penetrating fluid to seep in and break up the rust. I am using Kroil oil so if anything will get it done that will.

 

[The kid]

Well this one is recessed over an inch deep.

I can take the rear bolt out and move the hydraulic assembly, the bolt is free on the threads, it is rusted around the head inside the recessed hole. I filled it with penetrating oil and left it hoping it will free it up a little. But the only solution I really see is drilling it out. I really need about a 3/8" left hand drill bit, so hopefully it won't drill it all the way out before it gets it loose and backs it out.

Well it looks like Murphy's Law has stricken again. Since your dealing with a rusty shaft. Question: Is there threads all the way thru the head body. If not, and by the way your describing the body moving. I would put the other bolt back in (for alignment) not fully tight and start using leverage to force the body upwards till it broke the rust free. Once you have freed the valve assembly a bit of heat on the evil broken bolt should do it with a pair of vise grips. Last resort you could drill the bolt and use an "easy out". What you have described and what has occured I think and "easy out" would be fruitless . After all the bolt did shear. I don't think putting a modest amout of pressure on the valve body will damage it,, but might break the rust free. -kid

 

[lugnut1009]

Well it looks like Murphy's Law has stricken again. Since your dealing with a rusty shaft. Question: Is there threads all the way thru the head body. If not, and by the way your describing the body moving. I would put the other bolt back in (for alignment) not fully tight and start using leverage to force the body upwards till it broke the rust free. Once you have freed the valve assembly a bit of heat on the evil broken bolt should do it with a pair of vise grips. Last resort you could drill the bolt and use an "easy out". What you have described and what has occured I think and "easy out" would be fruitless . After all the bolt did shear. I don't think putting a modest amout of pressure on the valve body will damage it,, but might break the rust free. -kid

I guess I need to re-read my posts, but no the bolt is not sheared at all. The inside hex that the allen wrench is supposed to grab has stripped. It was full of water/mud/rust, I cleaned it the best I could before I started trying to get it to loosen. Funny thing is the rear bolt was easy to get loose. Oh well, I'll get it eventually....

 

[murphy1244]

Why does everyone blame Murphy?

 

[lugnut1009]

Why does everyone blame Murphy?

HA! :laughing:

 

[The kid]

I guess I need to re-read my posts, but no the bolt is not sheared at all. The inside hex that the allen wrench is supposed to grab has stripped. It was full of water/mud/rust, I cleaned it the best I could before I started trying to get it to loosen. Funny thing is the rear bolt was easy to get loose. Oh well, I'll get it eventually....

I thought it was an Allen screw that broke off.. It's me that needs to re- read your post. Oops. -kid

 

[lugnut1009]

No problem, I re-read it and can see where you got that from.

It's all good...

 

[murphy1244]

You buy the drill yet?

 

[The kid]

No problem, I re-read it and can see where you got that from.

It's all good...

I'm now thinking drill and easy out is your only option. Not Murphy's Law, but Murphy's solution..

Previous post was a old folks brain fart... :shocked:

 

[MasseyWV]

Why does everyone blame Murphy?

Gotta blame someone. :laughing:

 

[lugnut1009]

You buy the drill yet?

No, didn't have a chance to get anything accomplished yesterday.