782 Hydro leaks oil

cubrider · May 10, 2006

I have a 782 (built about 1981) with 750 hours. It still mows well although the engine uses oil. The tractor has always been stored inside so it is in reasonable cosmetic shape although it is showing its age.

The hydro leaks oil from the two weep holes in the large hex nuts on the top. I assume some internal seals are leaking somewhere. I believe the seal where the drive shaft enters the front of the hydro may be leaking a little as well. Has anyone had experience replacing the seals on a hydro of this vintage? What would be involved? Where can I get more information?

Bob_Bainbridge · May 10, 2006

Robert, those two large hex nuts are check valves and could have dirt in them or might be stuck. You might try soaking them in a cleaning agent like kerosene and blowing compressed air into them. If that doesn't work you may have to replace them. I had to replace one on an old 1450. I also had to replace a leaking seal between the hydro and the differential, which required removing the drive shaft and unbolting the hydro housing. I put a liberal amount of RTV sealant on the new seal.

Bob B.

bermuda_ken · May 11, 2006

Try cleaning the valves as Bob mentions. If they still leak, it may be time to buy new ones. They are about $ 100 each and CCC still offers them.

Bigalmhs · May 11, 2006

It may be the filter also, I have a 782 and had a similar problem, changed the filter and the leak stopped. Make sure you use the proper tans fluid, don’t skimp on the cheap oil to save a few bucks. If you use cheap oil it tends to run hotter then normal and that will make the trans foam up and push oil out. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Bob_Bainbridge · May 11, 2006

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Try cleaning the valves as Bob mentions. If they still leak, it may be time to buy new ones. They are about $ 100 each and CCC still offers them. )</font>

Wow, the price has really gone up. I bought one in 1996 and don't remember the price but I don't think it was anywhere near that amount.

Bob B.

Fordlords · May 12, 2006

You will enjoy refurbishing the 782 Cubrider, I spent about 100 hours restoring my 682 this past winter. I like the '82's style best of all the CC's, as they were made to resemble the big International farm tractors of their time. Other than the engines on the 82's just about everything else on them can last forever, including the Sunstrand hydro once resealed. Restoring an '82 is a very worthwhile investment.

-Fordlords-

cubrider · May 12, 2006

Thanks for the hints and encouragement. The hydro has been running hot due to the coating of debris on the fins. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif I will start by cleaning the check valves, replacing the oil filter, and changing the hydro oil. Then see how it goes from there.

bermuda_ken · May 12, 2006

Robert...the 782's are awesome. I have a Kohler V-Twin Command in mine and it is nearly unstoppable!!! Let me know if you have any quesitons on the 82 series.

For Cub Cadets I have "been there and done that".....

cubrider · May 13, 2006

This all started when I went to change the motor oil on the 782 this spring. It had only received cursory maintenance last summer. I was recovering from a broken sholder so my son changed the oil and did the mowing. When I looked the tractor over , I discovered that one of the motor mount bolts was loose. That wouldn't be too bad, but the other three were missing. The motor was being held in place by the driveshaft and one loose bolt! /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif I replaced the bolts and mowed a couple of minutes when the drag link tie rod end broke. At that point I decided it was time for a new mower. While I was deciding between the 2544 and a Z-Force 44, the dealer mentioned he could get me parts for the 782. Now I have a project. I am proceding slowly though. I don't want to make any expensive mistakes if I can help it. I have replaced the tie rod ends. When I am done fixing the hydro leaks and hopefullly tightening the steering box, my daughter and her husband will get the 782 if I can part with it.

The motor is another story. When I bought the 782 second hand 15 years ago, the dealer's mechanic told me, "Don't ever be tempted to rebuild this engine. If it goes, replace it." When the time comes, I will take his advice.

Fordlords · May 13, 2006

Nope, I would not bother rebuilding the original KT17 in a 682 or 782, even if it is the better Series II of that engine. I’ll admit they did run smooth, but they are noted to succumb to problems with rod journals seizing to the crankpin snapping one or both of the rods and the rods usually taking out a section of the bottom of the cylinder jug(s). The series I’s were notorious for this as they had a low pressure spray lube system where only oil that dripped down to the crankshaft lubed the rod bearings. Running them on slopes only made them fail faster from lack of oil to the crankpin. Series II KT’s attempted to correct this issue with a full pressure lube system and drilled oil passages in the crank, but I have come across many Series II’s that also failed with broken rods. CC replaced some of the KT17 SI’s with SII’s in 682/782’s under warranty. John Deere was so upset with Kohler with failures of the KT SI engines in their 317 model that they contacted Onan who were more than happy to supply JD with retrofitted P18’s to replace with under warranty as JD did not want to wait for the SII fix. It costs between $700-800 to properly rebuild a KT, (Not a good investment IMHO), and nearly $2000 to replace the engine with a new KT17 Series II. (WAY overpriced again for a not-so-great engine.)

It is best IMHO today to do what JD did 25 years ago for the 317 and retrofit the KT17 in Cub Cadet 682/782’s with a better engine. Conversion kits are available to use 18-22 HP V Twin Kohler Commands, Honda GX’es, and Briggs and Stratton Vanguards. These kits run in the $1100-$1400 range, and give one a MUCH better engine for the ‘82’s than the KT17 was. (They also use about half the amount of gas!) A good condition ‘82’ is definitely worth the investment of new power.

When I replaced my engine all the mounting bolts were there, but they were not much more than finger tight! Excessive steering box play can usually be remedied by tightening down the 2 large nuts you see on the box- just don’t go too tight or it won’t steer fully left or right. I was able to get all but a hair of the play out of my steering box, it feels almost as tight as new CC’s at the dealer.

-Fordlords-