782 Hydro leaks oil

[EuropaChris]

Good post, Fordlords.

I agree that the newer V-twins are far superior to the old flathead twins like the K series, Onans, or Briggs.

However, the SOUND of a flat twin is just music to my ears, and they run so smooth. I keep looking for a nice, clean vintage BMW motorcycle because a) I love BMW motorcycles and 2) I love the way they sound!

My 2544 sounds more like a Harley. Fortunately it doesn't leak like one....

Chris

 

[bermuda_ken]

When I "re-created" my 782, a Kolher Command V-Twin was my only choice to use. My "mileage" went way up compared to the new engine 1450 I had been using. The V-twins have a sound of thier own, just like the diesels.....

 

[bermuda_ken]

When I "re-created" my 782, a Kolher Command V-Twin was my only choice to use. My "mileage" went way up compared to the new engine 1450 I had been using. The V-twins have a sound of thier own, just like the diesels.....

 

[Fordlords]

I always used to like the sound the KT17 made- it had a low throaty sound to it making it sound more powerful than it really was /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif New Honda engine sounds more like a de-tuned motorcycle, like the opposite of the KT- it does not sound as powerful as it actually is.

I still like the old cast iron Kohler K series singles, even though their flat/L-head configuration makes them hog gas, they are easy to rebuild and cost effective as doing so often gives them a second lifetime. The Kohler K-KT twins however I'd just take to the curb or part out on fee-bay when they die- only thier cylinder jugs are iron anyway.

All I can say for sure is 682 with Kohler KT would require a trip to gas station with my 6 gallon can every 3 mowings. I've already mowed 5 times with the Honda engine and still have about a gallon left in the big can, and a half a tank in the tractor- its saving about a gallon of gas every session, will probably save about $100 a season on gas.

-Fordlords-

 

[Fordlords]

I always used to like the sound the KT17 made- it had a low throaty sound to it making it sound more powerful than it really was /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif New Honda engine sounds more like a de-tuned motorcycle, like the opposite of the KT- it does not sound as powerful as it actually is.

I still like the old cast iron Kohler K series singles, even though their flat/L-head configuration makes them hog gas, they are easy to rebuild and cost effective as doing so often gives them a second lifetime. The Kohler K-KT twins however I'd just take to the curb or part out on fee-bay when they die- only thier cylinder jugs are iron anyway.

All I can say for sure is 682 with Kohler KT would require a trip to gas station with my 6 gallon can every 3 mowings. I've already mowed 5 times with the Honda engine and still have about a gallon left in the big can, and a half a tank in the tractor- its saving about a gallon of gas every session, will probably save about $100 a season on gas.

-Fordlords-

 

[cubrider]

Cleaned up the hydro check valves by blowing carb cleaner through them, then soaked them in brake fluid for a day and repeated the process. This freed them up. Reinstalled them last night. So far they aren't leaking. I also replaced the seal where the drive shaft enters the hydro. The shaft inside the pump is showing some pitting and wear from the needle bearings. Not good news. While I had the drive shaft loose, I discovered that the bushing on the front of the drive shaft is completely gone. The drive shaft is running at least 1/4 inch off center. No wonder the motor mount bolts had vibrated loose! I will probably need to replace the entire front spider.

I tightened the jam nuts on the steering box a little too much a first. I could only turn right! Loosened them back off a little. The steering feels much better. Thanks for the tip.

 

[cubrider]

Cleaned up the hydro check valves by blowing carb cleaner through them, then soaked them in brake fluid for a day and repeated the process. This freed them up. Reinstalled them last night. So far they aren't leaking. I also replaced the seal where the drive shaft enters the hydro. The shaft inside the pump is showing some pitting and wear from the needle bearings. Not good news. While I had the drive shaft loose, I discovered that the bushing on the front of the drive shaft is completely gone. The drive shaft is running at least 1/4 inch off center. No wonder the motor mount bolts had vibrated loose! I will probably need to replace the entire front spider.

I tightened the jam nuts on the steering box a little too much a first. I could only turn right! Loosened them back off a little. The steering feels much better. Thanks for the tip.

 

[Bob_Bainbridge]

Glad the check valves cleaned up OK. At least something went well. I got by with cleaning one and had to replace one.

Bob B.

 

[Bob_Bainbridge]

Glad the check valves cleaned up OK. At least something went well. I got by with cleaning one and had to replace one.

Bob B.

 

[Fordlords]

I would definitely replace the flexible discs on the driveshaft as I'm sure the original ones are gone- www.cubcadetstore.com has a set of 3 for about $30.00.

It was probably the other way around- the loose/missing engine mount bolts caused the driveshaft to become misaligned wearing out the coupling disks, the driveshaft oil seal, and the bearing race. If the bearing race is bad, it will likely start to leak from the new seal again very quickly. But, if its borderline, getting the engine down tight and having new disks that keep the driveshaft running on center you might be OK. The only issue I had with the hydro on my 682 was getting the "creeps" out of it, I was lucky I replaced the engine to notice the bolts were loose, and then when someone told me what the driveshaft could do if it broke loose at the rear coupling disk, I replaced those.

Now you just gotta ask someone in the family to get you that new Honda engine for Christmas! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

-Fordlords-