8N and Brush Hog

   / 8N and Brush Hog #1  

8N_John

Silver Member
Joined
Nov 4, 2004
Messages
100
Location
Kearney, Missouri
Tractor
1952 Ford 8N
I just bought a new 8N and 5' brush hog. I'm new to the tractor world. Can someone post a picture or describe how to hook up a brush hog. I'm not sure if I need to buy any new links/supports??

Thanks.
 
   / 8N and Brush Hog #2  
Nice piece of equipment. Unfortunately, I can't post pictures because I no longer have one. IMO, an over runnning clutch is a must have item. It will help keep the tractor from moving forward once you depress the clutch. clutch

One of my favorite sites to drool on is Smith's 8N

Have fun and be safe.
 
   / 8N and Brush Hog #3  
Can't show you a picture but I will try to discribe it. It is called a 3 point hitch because it attachs in 3 points. Your brush hog should have what looks like an 'A' frame on the front of it. The top of the 'A' connects to the top of the axel with a turnbuckle type link. The bottom of the 'A' connects to the tractor with fixed link drag bars to the bottom of the axel. A sway bar may be added on each side of the 'A'.

Don't use the hog without an ORC (over run coupler). It connects between the PTO and the drive shaft. The drive shaft may or may not need to be cut to length.

If I were you I would go to yesterdays tractor, http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/boards.cgi, many people with Ns over there.
 
   / 8N and Brush Hog #4  
The guys gave you good advice... especially about the ORC.

Here's something else to think about. The N's came from the factory with a short ( just about 3") 6 spline 1 1/8 pto stub. Modern pto stub is a tad longer, and 1 3/8 6 spline.

Not to worry, you have 2 options... install a new pto shaft for 100 bucks.. easy slide in slide out deal 4 bolts a gasket, etc.. and then buy a new ORC that goes from the normal 1 3/8 to 1 3/8.. or just simply keep the old shaft and buy an ORC that goes from 1 1/8 to 1 3/8.

And like the others said.. you may have to cut down the saft depending.. though my 5' KK and ORC fit fine on my N's without cutting the shaft.

One more thing. the toplink rocker on your tractor has 3 holes.. use the bottom hole to connect the toplink in. Also, make sure the small 3" lever under the seat ( draft lever) is set straight up.. vertical.. that is for position control.

If your hyds are weak and won't hold the mower up while the clutch is in, get a set of depth limit chains.

Those chains hook up to the smae lower lift pins where the tractors arms connect to the mower. . and then the chains attatch to brackets that are pinned on the same pin the toplink is connected to. You lift the mower to the desired height, and then chain it.. and then let the mower down, and the chains hold the mower at that height. This is especially usefull since you can then disengage your pto so that the mower isn't spinning while you drive out to and from the pasture. ( neither the pto or the hyds are live... pto has to be spinning to have hyds ).

Soundguy
 
   / 8N and Brush Hog #5  
I don't know if this will help or not.
 

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   / 8N and Brush Hog #6  
...or this
 

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   / 8N and Brush Hog #7  
...or this (sorry-looks like I posted the same one twice!! /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 

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   / 8N and Brush Hog
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Here is a picture of my tractor.

Does it look like I have all the needed links?? Notice there is a place to at a link near the back right wheel, but not on the left??
 

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   / 8N and Brush Hog #9  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Here is a picture of my tractor.

Does it look like I have all the needed links?? Notice there is a place to at a link near the back right wheel, but not on the left?? )</font>

Those links under the axle are for stablizer bars. Would be nice to have, but you can just use the limiter chains you have in the middle there as is.

You will remove the 3pt drawbar on the lower 2 arms, and hook up the brush hog there. Then on top behind the seat goes the top link. That _should_ come with your brush hog. If not, you will need to get one.

Then hook thepto up to the Over Running Clutch you are going to buy & put on your tractor. (That is important, or you will run into something without it. Seriously.) You likely will need to shorten the pto shaft to make it fit. As you raise the 3pt, the shaft will compress, and if it bottoms out it will wreck something. You will need to pull the pto shaft apart, and cut a littl eof each end, plus a little off each shield. Then slip it back together. Likely the shaft only slips together one way - if it is square & fits any which way, you need to make sure the knuckles on each end are out of phase from each other or the shaft will knock & hammer like heck when in use.

--->Paul
 
   / 8N and Brush Hog #10  
Let's try this to see if we can help clear things up. In the picture, remove A, B, C, and D. Now, A and or B can be reconnected as shown by arrow A1. Arrow 1 is where the PTO shaft and overrunning clutch get connected. Arrow 2 is where the adjustable toplink would be connected. Another caution here, don't raise the mower too high with the PTO on. Serious damage will result.

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