8n hydraulics

[double hunter]

I have a buddy who has a 8n with hydraulic problems, lift was working ok, hydraulic fluid was milky so he decided to change it, after changing it will not work at all, he replaced it with universal hydraulic fluid, what type fluid should be used, does it have to be primed, any info will be greatly appeciated,

 

[LD1]

Universal hydraulic fluid should work just fine.

Just covering the basics here, does he know that the PTO DOES need to be spinning for the hydraulics to work??

 

[Soundguy]

assuming he knows how to use the hyds, and as stated, pto must be spinning for hyds to work.. the next thing i would look at for a unit that had been working then stopped, and an oil change would be a sticky control valve... some grit may have been stirred up during the change and refill.

pull the round inspection cover with a dipstick in it that is aft of your right foot.. there will be a bar hanging down from the top cover that goes to a lil pivot that works the control valve in and out.. if that rod is not moving the control valve fully in and out, the lift will not function. you might try manually helping that rod move as you move the control lever.. keep yer hands out of the oil though as there is a spinning shaft in there.

if that's not it, post back.. other possibilities are a stuck open relief, etc..

soundguy

 

[double hunter]

Got by there today to look at his tractor, its not even a 8n, its a later model, not sure sure which one, it has a round hood emblem like a Jubilee, the emblem has Ford script on the top and shafts of wheat on the bottom, looks like the hydralic pump is mounted on the opposide of the motor from the starter, had my saturday clothes on and didn't want a hydraulic shower, will have to get back by there, I feel there is probaly air in the system, any additional advice appreciated,

 

[Soundguy]

ok, so he likely has a naa or hundred series..

assuming he put oil in the correct sump, and it is full, remove the plug on the front/top of the pump head and run engine over till oil bubbles out from there, next you can pull the plug on the 3x5 cover under the seat and do the same.. once you have oil there, oil is getting to the unlaoding valve.. if moving the 3pt control a few times up and down, with machine at high idle AFTER bleeding the system and getting oil at both those plugs, then there are a few possibilities that will require removal of the top cover.. like sticky unloading valve, blown open relief, etc. on a naa, could be back pressure valve/line gone..

if the rear axle has a nut.. it's a naa, if it is a dish, or a dish with 2 edges or a line thru the middle but no nut its a 00 or 01.. if a naa, you have to remove the acorn nut and back out the back pressure valve before you remove the top cover or it can be damaged.

post back

soundguy

 

[double hunter]

Thanks for the reply, I am going to get it tomorrow, looks like I may be the owner of this tractor, he's tired of fooling with it and is not mech. inclined at all, made me an offer I could not refuse, will post back when I get it home.

 

[LD1]

So...how much did you "steal" it for if ya dont mind my asking?

 

[Soundguy]

post back when ya get it and let us know what it is.

we can help you get it going

soundguy

 

[double hunter]

Hey he's the one that made the offer, I gave him $2800.00, old tractor runs goods, Oh and I got 2 really good 5' disk, a Covington planter with numerous sweeps, a brand new never used 150 lb hopper seed sower, a 5' Howse bush hog, a rough box blade and a 1 row cultivator, reckon I did alright.

 

[double hunter]

I don't really need the Covington planter, reckon what would be a fair price to get for this, it must have 20 different sweeps and a wheel attachment for the back, it has some different plates also.