JMan74
New member
My 8n will turn over and it will fire. But when I release the starter button it stops. Does anyone have any useful tips for me?
8N not starting
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Willl
Elite Member
Sounds like a key switch fault. I'd start there.
Willl
Elite Member
Do these units have external ballast resisters ?
If it did and was burnt out it would give the same symptoms.
If it did and was burnt out it would give the same symptoms.
Yogurt Slinger
New member
ignition switch
Willl
Elite Member
Electrical meter would come in real handy for this. Heck even a test lamp would suffice.
jimmysisson
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#2 on the ballast resistor. If it's open, no juice to coil in Run position, only at Start. Check for open.
Jim
Jim
Thanks Jim I'll check. Wonder if solenoid is wired right. There are 5 wires going to it. I tried the positive battery cable where it said bat on solenoid. Got a big arc. Would not turn over, so I reversed them and it turned over. I just know its got to be something simple.
Jason
Jason
Soundguy
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as it left the factory it would NOT give that symptom.
front mount foreds DO use a ballast resistor.. but DO NOT use a bypass solenoid.
a unit that starts and runs as long as the starter thumb button is held down indicates that someone has swapepd a wire tothe starter side of the solenoid vs the battery side.
Soundguy
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you guys should REALLY learn your ford info before attempting to give advice.
front mount fords provide coil current thru the balast resistor during start AND run.
there is a key switch to power the coil thru the ballast ressitor, and a thumb button to spin the starter.
there is NO ignition bypass setup.
wasn't until 65 gassers that ford went with a ressitor wire from the run terminal onthe key switch to the coil, and uses a straight wire bypass during start.. and it was key-to-start to boot.
2 completely different systems.
Soundguy
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ps.. this may not even be an early 8n.. it may be a sidemount. .. and or it may have an alternator.. and the ballast resistor seen may be a conversion resistor.
from the OP.. we need more info.. AND have you swapped wires on t he solenoid?
from the OP.. we need more info.. AND have you swapped wires on t he solenoid?
Soundguy
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assuming front mount:
should be a bat wire, heavy. a buss bar to the starter, a small wire on the small 3rd terminal to the thumb switch. and a wire from t he battery side of the solenoid to the post on the ballast resistor not across the resistive element. from that point, to the key, then to one side of the ballast resistor. then from the ballast resistor to the coil.
if there are lamps, they get power from that lone terminal on the ballast resistor that the key does as well.
that's a 'basic' point to point of the wire diagram.
assuming you have the correct 3 post solenoid and your switches are working and ignition is in order.. following that diagram will net you a running 8n.
should be a bat wire, heavy. a buss bar to the starter, a small wire on the small 3rd terminal to the thumb switch. and a wire from t he battery side of the solenoid to the post on the ballast resistor not across the resistive element. from that point, to the key, then to one side of the ballast resistor. then from the ballast resistor to the coil.
if there are lamps, they get power from that lone terminal on the ballast resistor that the key does as well.
that's a 'basic' point to point of the wire diagram.
assuming you have the correct 3 post solenoid and your switches are working and ignition is in order.. following that diagram will net you a running 8n.
Soundguy
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with an alt. you will have either 2 resistors and the oem coil.. or a newer 2.5 ohm coil and a single resistor ( preferably )
Soundguy
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as a test, you can always temporarily hot wire the coil,, battey to coil top with gator clips then bump the starter. if she starts and runs. you know you have a fault in how you have your ignition wired.
don't run like that long. just use it is a short diagnostic test.
don't run like that long. just use it is a short diagnostic test.
