8N parts

[Soundguy]

Yeah, it is the wrong paint. This is my before picture, when I had just gotten it from the previous owner. It is missing some parts here, but I am slowly putting it back together.
I just got the generator and regulator back from the shop, and have installed it, I need to put in the new 6v battery, then attatch the tool box, and re-attatch the front bumper and new grill, and the proof meter, then it will be complete. The previous owner painted it with a BRUSH.. so I have been doing alot of sanding and wire brushing. I bought the original ford red, and the ford grey for the 8n... I think I paid as much for the paint as i did for some of the parts.

The sheet metal is pretty good. Only had 3 rust holes the size of a nickel, and 3-4 dents.

I wish i had more time to work on her... As it is, I get out to the barn and only have about 4-5 hours a week to put into her.

Soundguy

"Hey Soundguy, the red looks okay, but the gray seems to be the wrong color. If you don't use Ford Medium "

 

[jinman]

Soundguy, I'm sure the tractor will look terrific when you get through with it. It sounds like you are trying to keep everything original. If not, I'd recommend you get rid of that 6 volt electrical system as soon as possible. Changing to a 12 volt, negative ground system is the biggest improvement you could ever do to your tractor. They start instantly and you can use a GM alternator with built-in regulator. Also, when was the last time you saw a 6 volt battery charger? Your starter doesn't have to be rewired. It doesn't care if you have negative or positive ground. It turns the same direction. You might have to change to a 12 volt solenoid and put a ballast resistor in line with your points, but I think that's about all unless you want to go with a voltmeter instead of an ammeter. Of course, if you are going to show it, you may want to keep it original. I can sure understand that. It sounds like Kodiak can probably give you some really good tips too. Seems he has a lot of tractor "ole-timers" hanging out at his place./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

 

[RichZ]

Jim, I'm not questioning your wisdom, but I am curious. Is it worth all the trouble to switch to 12 volts? I have the original six volt system on my Ferguson (although it's a negative ground, so I guess it has been modified), and I never have any trouble with it. It starts very easily. Also I bought a trickle charger at a local hardware store when I got it. It's a Century brand. It has a switch for 6 and 12 volts, so that's not a problem.

So what are the advantages of 12 volts? I always feel "If it ain't broke, don't fix it.", but if there's a major advantage, then I would change it.

Thanks in advance for the info!

 

[jinman]

Rich, if you have a working 6 volt system, then you may not need anything else. The main advantages of the 12 volt system are a hotter spark, faster starter rpm, and inexpensive/readily available parts. Almost any store that sells auto accessories will stock 12 volt batteries and any auto parts place will have a GM alternator for about $30 or less with core trade-in. If you have headlights or other workligts installed as aftermarket, most surely they will also be 12 volt lamps. Now you may not have trouble with your Fergie's 6 volt system, but I have a neighbor with a Ford 601, and he has a lot of problems getting the tractor to start. My old Jubilee had anti-foul adapters on the spark plugs and I could not hit the start button and get off it fast enough to make it not start. I swear, the hotter 12 volt system's spark made that much difference. Since you are in a much colder spot than North Texas, I'm surprised you have had such good luck. Do you keep the Fergie inside? Most of my neighbor's problems are due to his 601 getting cold and/or wet.

Again, if it works, don't mess with it. But, if you are going to have to replace an expensive voltage regulator and generator, you might consider going to the 12 volt system.

 

[RichZ]

Thanks, Jim!! Now I understand why so many people upgrade from 6 volts to 12. But in my case everything is OK. I have headlights already, and I never have trouble getting parts.

I keep my Fergie in an unheated garage, and it always starts on the first or occasionally the second try, even in the winter. And it gets around zero degrees here in upstate NY in the winter. Maybe I'm lucky or maybe Fergie electrical systems are an improvement over Fords. Who knows??/w3tcompact/icons/hmm.gif

 

[Soundguy]

My 6v pos. grnd system works well too. I have 6v headlights, etc. The tractor starts within a second or two of hitting the switch. Occasionally I have to pull the choke.. but heck.. it is 50 years old. The previous owner had installed the wrong regulator on it ( a b-circuit ) and I just had the shop trade it out for the right one ( a-circuit ) and now the generator works good.. puts out up to 15 or 20 amps when it needs it.

I had no idea the starter could be left the same when switching to 12v neg. grnd.

I think I'll keep mine stock for historical purposes, unless I run into problems. I even lucked out and have the original rivited bumper.. though one rung has been repaired.

Soundguy

<font color=red>I keep my Fergie in an unheated garage, and it always starts on the first or occasionally the second try, even in the winter. And it gets around zero degrees here in upstate NY in the winter. Maybe I'm lucky or maybe Fergie electrical systems are an improvement over Fords. Who knows??

 

[jinman]

<font color=blue>I had no idea the starter could be left the same when switching to 12v neg. grnd.</font color=blue>

I didn't either until I converted my Jubilee. It seems to go against everything I know about DC motors (not a lot). Since you have your 6 volt system working, I'd just stick to that. If it fails sometime in the future, you'll know you can easily switch. These old tractors are fun and they will surprise you about what they can do. Do your brakes work good too? Instead of power brakes, Fords have an ingenious method called "self-engaging" or something like that. When you step on the brake, the brake tends to multiply the pressure and helps you so you don't have to push down so hard. That feature and the little toggles that lock the brakes (parking brakes) are something I use constantly on my tractor since I have hilly land. You can shut off the engine in gear or drop the implement, but having a parking brake comes in handy if you want to leave the engine running and have an implement without a lot of drag on the 3PH.

 

[Soundguy]

The 6v system is working good now that I have replaced all the wiring and connectors, cleaned contacts, etc. The previous owner actually disconnected the positive ground strap to the frame, painted the frame, then reconnected the strap.... almost with no contact area for current to flow.
Now that i've overcome those little 'gifts' fromthe previous owner, all is falling into place. I've almost finished repairing the front bumper ( had to replace the lower rung ) and I need to beat a dent out of the upper two. The only other part I am waiting for is the proof meter. I have one on order from just8ns.com. I've beat the few dents it has out of the hood, and applied some body filler, etc. Guess it is time to start really sanding it down... here is where the time consuming part comes in!

Soundguy

"I had no idea the starter could be left the same when switching to 12v neg. grnd.

I didn't either until I converted my Jubilee. It seems to go against everything I know about DC motors (not a lot). Since you have your 6 volt system working, I'd just stick to that. If it fails sometime in the future, you'll know you can easily switch. These old tractors are fun and they will surprise you about what they can do. Do your brakes work good too? Instead of power brakes, Fords have an ingenious method called "self-engaging" or something like that. When you step on the brake, the brake tends to multiply the pressure and helps you so you don't have to push down so hard. That feature and the little toggles that lock the brakes (parking brakes) are something I use constantly on my tractor since I have hilly land. You can shut off the engine in gear or drop the implement, but having a parking brake comes in handy if you want to leave the engine running and have an implement without a lot of drag on the 3PH. "

 

[s1120]

<font color=red>Fords have an ingenious method called "self-engaging" or something like that.</font color=red>

Thats self-energizeing. Most drum brakes use it. It usees the braking force on one shoe to move the other. That is one reason why there were few cars with non power disc brakes, but a lot of non power drum brakes. The drums need less effort.

 

[jinman]

<font color=blue>Thats self-energizeing. ...why there were few cars with non power disc brakes, but a lot of non power drum brakes</font color=blue>

I'll take your word for that, Paul. I'd never heard it referred to about automotive brakes, but my Ford repair manual made specific mention of that feature. Also, I think you have to go back to the early 60's or maybe late 50's to find non-power assisted drum brakes on vehicles too. Although, I'd have to agree with you about power disc brakes. I think the only non-power (dry) disk brake I've seen is on my Gilson lawn tractor./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif