8n won't start

   / 8n won't start #1  

tkcarter3

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Joined
May 3, 2008
Messages
1
Have a 1949 8n that has been hard to start for a couple months. Now won't start at all. Will start to turn over then makes a weird noise which goes from loud to soft and then goes clunk. Any ideas. I no my description is not good.
 
   / 8n won't start #2  
not to be a smart *** but is the battery up to snuff? my old 2n (6v) always sounde like it never had enough to turn it over , but that sucker always started.
 
   / 8n won't start #3  
tkcarter3 said:
Have a 1949 8n that has been hard to start for a couple months. Now won't start at all. Will start to turn over then makes a weird noise which goes from loud to soft and then goes clunk. Any ideas. I no my description is not good.

If the battery is OK and the cable connections are clean, it sounds like your starter may need a new Bendix gear.
 
   / 8n won't start #4  
If it actually makes a couple cranks, and then kicks out, what is likely happening is thge engine coughs a bit, and this is enough to kick out the old style drive gear.

2 options, 1, do a tune up on her so that she actually starts instead of coughs, or ( AND ) det a new 'follow thru' clutch style drive gear that won't kick out.

I'd start with a new set of points.. or at least clean up your old set and regap. .015 for the front mounts.( new tisco set costs about 4$... takes 10 minutes to change them ) A new set of champion h12 or autolite 437 plugs gapped at .025, and a nice soft set of copper core plug wires. Make sure your electrical connections at the ignition switch and the balalst resistor are clean, bright and tight.

post back if you need help.

soundguy
 
   / 8n won't start #5  
Another thing to look at is the condition of the starter itself. A weak starter can make the engine turn enough to get a cylinder to "cough" once which might be enough to kick out the inertial style Bendix gear which the N tractors have. But not enough to really start the tractor. One thing that happens with a weak starter is the bushings are hogged out and the armature starts turning non-concentrically and actually rubs on the field wiring. This causes a tremendous current draw, which if you test the starter electrically it will show a very high amperage. A couple of new bushings and a set of brushes and the starter will really spin, much more likely to actually start the tractor, especially one that maybe needs a tuneup, or a carb job, or even a motor job.
simonmeridew
 
   / 8n won't start #6  
Don't know if you've got your tractor going yet but it sounds like the starter drive is going bad. I have a '49 8N myself & it isn't uncommon for this part to go bad. Mine always seems to hook back up though I have a new one (about $35) on the shelf waiting to be installed.

You can jump start the 6V system with a 12V battery & that may give it the kick to get it going. I do it once in a while if it's very cold.

Just remember that the 8N is POSITIVE ground, so be sure to reverse the cables.
 
   / 8n won't start #7  
Sure sounds like the starter to me. I had mine rebuilt after it went. There are
a lot of old tractor shops around here, so I had no problem finding a place to
fix it.

I had to replace it in the middle of a pasture in August in
Tennessee. No Fun!! That thing is heavy! :D
 
   / 8n won't start #8  
While I'd pull it to inspect the bushings.. the drive kicking out does not specifically mean the drive or starter is bad. they are merely doind what they are designed for... whent he engine coughs.. it overspeeds and unlocks/unwinds/kicks the drive gear out... the fact that it don't start may be a tune up issue.. baring mechanical damage to the starter or solenoid that can be diagnosed by observation and testing.

soundguy
 
   / 8n won't start #9  
When he used the "clunk" word, I instantly thought of the starter, as mine
sounded at least like a clunk along with major grind, whir and spin! :p
 
   / 8n won't start #10  
Sure sounds like the starter to me. I had mine rebuilt after it went. There are
a lot of old tractor shops around here, so I had no problem finding a place to
fix it.

I had to replace it in the middle of a pasture in August in
Tennessee. No Fun!! That thing is heavy! :D

Does the 1949 8N front distributer have a solenoid on the starter motor?
My daughters tractor was worked on and now the button switch just smokes
when trying to start. There is no solenoid above the starter.
 
   / 8n won't start #11  
You could get the crank and hand start it. Often those were more reliable than the six volt battery and starter. :D

As the other fellows have said take a look at the battery and and all the connections. maybe even have to pull the starter apart.:D
 
   / 8n won't start #12  
Does the 1949 8N front distributer have a solenoid on the starter motor?
My daughters tractor was worked on and now the button switch just smokes
when trying to start. There is no solenoid above the starter.

Yes, there is a solenoid on the 8N starter. From the factory it bolts directly to the starter, but perhaps it has been moved. It is not like on many cars where the solenoid it also the plunger.

On my old '49 if the starter does not turn over I lightly tap the starter with a rubber mallet or a piece of wood, and off it goes. It is time for a rebuild I guess.
 
   / 8n won't start #13  
Does the 1949 8N front distributer have a solenoid on the starter motor?
My daughters tractor was worked on and now the button switch just smokes
when trying to start. There is no solenoid above the starter.

All 8n use a solenoid. it was the 9n/2n that used the large interlocked start switch ont he back of the steering pedistal ( and early 9n that used a dash non safety start switch ).

the thumb switch on the trans top merely provides ground to the small 3rd terminal of the oem 3 terminal N solenoid.. the small terminal must face the tractor.. coil is internally hot fromt he battery side.

check the wireing if it smokes, and check to make sure the correct solenoid was used.

a 4 terminal isolated base solenoid can be used.. but they are not the common 4 terminal solenoid.. a 4 terminal 'bypass' style solenois isd the average run of the mill solenoid.. and it is not directly compatible with the N trnas top start button.

soundguy
 
   / 8n won't start #14  
Yes, there is a solenoid on the 8N starter. From the factory it bolts directly to the starter, but perhaps it has been moved. It is not like on many cars where the solenoid it also the plunger.

On my old '49 if the starter does not turn over I lightly tap the starter with a rubber mallet or a piece of wood, and off it goes. It is time for a rebuild I guess.

might be loose / worn brushes or tall mica.. that's usually what the tap-start symptoms indicate..

soundguy
 
   / 8n won't start #15  
I bought a 8n from a guy last week. He could start it easy. He said u have to turn the gas on by turning the valve alot of times(not the two turns that it says). I try to do this and it wont start. I turn it a hundred times and the engine turns but wont start. I dont get it. Help!
 
   / 8n won't start #16  
if you can turn the oem fuel valve a hundred times, the lil disc is spinning on the shaft... or the shaft is broke... the needle should only spin about 4 full turns to be max open..

( ps.. 15$ repalcement item = fuel tap.. )

soundguy
 
   / 8n won't start #17  
or you could plumb in a small 1/4 turn valve and solve the problem
 
   / 8n won't start #18  
all that would do is eliminate 2 of his 3 oem fuel filters, and may not solve his no start problem. so far it's not guaranteed to be fuel.

once we see if it's fuel, we can go from there to see if he can start.

so lets hold off on removing 66% of his fuel filtering and 100% of his water seperating capabilities for a bit..

soundguy
 
   / 8n won't start #19  
plumb it ahead of your filtering and you elimate nothing.
 
   / 8n won't start #20  
plumb it ahead of your filtering and you elimate nothing.

I guess you don't own a N ford do you? the tank fuel tap has 2 filters built in.

1 filter is in the tank, size of your finger.. sets atop the tap.. the 2nd filter is above the sediment bowl.. fuel has to pass both these screens before it can exit the valve.. this setup has a sediment bowl too, so fines and water can settle to the bottom between the 2 filter stages.

thus if you eliminate the oem ful tap to install a brass 1/4 turn valve you ELIMINATE 66% of the filtering int he system, and ALL the water elimination capability!

there is no 'ahead' of this setup. 'ahead of this setup is the fuel tank itself with a pipe thread bung in the bottom the tap screws into!!

soundguy
 

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