8N WONT START

[TERRY47]

MY 1947 8N HAS ALWAYS STARTED UP NEARLY ON CONTACT WITH THE STARTER SWITCH. YESTERDAY I STRTED IT DROVE ABOUT 100 FEET, TURNED IT OFF TO GREASE MY MOWER AND NOW THE TRACTOR WILL NOT START. THERE IS SPARK AT THE PLUGS, BUT THE ENGINE DOES NOT FIRE IT JUST TURNS OVER EASILY. THE PLUGS WERE DRY SO I PULLED THE CARB, THERE WAS GAS IN IT AND IT IS PRETTY CLEAN INSIDE, I STUCK MY FINGER UP INSIDE THE INTAKE MANIFOLD AND IT WAS DAMP FROM GAS. THERE DOES NOT SEEM TO BE FUEL GETTING ALL THE WAY TO THE PLUGS. DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS?
THANKS, TERRY47

 

[mostly_gas]

Did you check for water in the gas? Try a SMALL amount of gas (drops) into a couple of the cylinders and you should at least some firing. If not check compression.

 

[TERRY47]

Did you check for water in the gas? Try a SMALL amount of gas (drops) into a couple of the cylinders and you should at least some firing. If not check compression.

THANKS, I WILL TRY BOTH AND WILL ADVISE. TERRY47

 

[LD1]

Is it 6v or 12v converted?

You said it didnt start but just turns over easy. That would worry me if 6v. I wouldnt descrive a 6v system with a good engine in proper order as "turning over easy". 12v would be a different story.

Also, was the spark a good hot blue spark? thats a must.

Try the gas trick. Or even a spray bottle with gas sprayed into the intake. If spark is good, you should get something.

 

[8N Ren]

First thing, can you please take your caps lock off lol.
I'm going to suggest easily overlooked things which I have done myself a time or two.

Enough gas in the tank? You could have a gallon of gas in there but if the bulb isn't turned on enough you won't get flow to the carb. s Make sure the sediment bulb in turned on (2 full turns).

All of your fuel screens clean?
Carb float stuck? Wrap the side of the bowl with a hammer handle or whatever you have nearby. Go easy that puppy is cast!
Water in the tank?
How long were you cranking it? Plugs are probably wet now and covered in spark robbing deposits. Pull em out and clean em, wave a propane torch over em to burn off the crap, but not longer then 2-3 seconds, then re-gap and install.
Make sure your points have their proper gap/camlube.

Good luck and post back with your findings.

 

[Soundguy]

I'm with mostlygas and ld1

Try some starter fluid or mist of fuel sprayed into carb while cranking over.

IF there is good spark, and all else is good. that should start it even with no gas in the tank.

Now.. something LD touched on.

turning over REAL easy?

If she don't start on the above test. pull the plugs and do a quicky compression test using your thumb on the plug hole. STUCK VALVES are not uncommon and do happen time to time.

post back... oh.. and DO double check that spark. it's the easiest thing to fix without your hands smelling like gasoline!

 

[TERRY47]

IT IS 12V AND HAS ALWAYS TURNED OVER PRETTY FAST. I TRIED SQUIRTING A LITTLE BIT OF GAS INTO THE CYLINERS. I AM GOING TO CHECK COMPRESSION AND GO FROM THERE. THANKS TO ALL YOU GUYS FOR YOUR RESPONSES AND SUGGESTIONS.

 

[Goaliedavid]

Terry it is not compression, "it started right up you drove it 100 feet and shut it off now it won't start, have spark but plug are dry" You are not getting fuel. Start by opening fuel shut off with fuel line removed are you getting good flow from tank to carb? if so float is likely stuck.

 

[Soundguy]

Terry it is not compression, "it started right up you drove it 100 feet and shut it off now it won't start, have spark but plug are dry" You are not getting fuel. Start by opening fuel shut off with fuel line removed are you getting good flow from tank to carb? if so float is likely stuck.

So.... can't possibly be compression.. right?

you must have never seen stuck valves ever ever before.

if it has spark, turns over and won't pop off on gas squirted in a cyl.. there is something other than a fuel stoppage.

 

[Goaliedavid]

So.... can't possibly be compression.. right?

you must have never seen stuck valves ever ever before.

if it has spark, turns over and won't pop off on gas squirted in a cyl.. there is something other than a fuel stoppage.

Your right it started fine you drove it 100 feet and shut it off and like magic all the valves stuck. Why ask for help if you know it already? hope it works out OK for you sorry to waste your time with my advice

 

[LD1]

No need to get hostile. Soundguy knows more than most when it comes to old fords.

I agree that it isn't a compression issue in terms of ring wear. But stuck valves do happen. And yea it is possible to drive 100' and have one hang. Cause last time it was parked and started fine it might not have stopped with the can holding that calve open and this time it did.

And to be clear, no one is saying tear it apart cause that's the issue. We are all just throwing out ideas. Check the easy stuff first. And if it is getting good hot spark, and still won't pop with fas or starter fluid spraid directly in the intake, the problem isn't likely to be fuel or spark related at all. I think that's all he is trying to point out. And the fact that a comp test is pretty easy to do.

 

[TomSeller]

Lots of good suggestions, I would try them all if it were my tractor. No harm, no foul. Cheers.

 

[azranger]

Is it a front mount distributor? I have an 8n and if the coil on the front of the engine goes bad it will act this way. Also there is a resistor on the dash that goes bad and it will act up. These tractors are finicky. If you need parts give this place a shot they have everything for these tractors..
www.dennis-carpenter.com

 

[Goaliedavid]

I did not mean to imply that it in no way could not be compression nor did I mean to call Soundguy out as not knowing what he was talking about. I should have worded that a little differently maybe "I do not believe it to be a compression issue" might have been much better. Or that "it is highly unlikely to be compression issue". the fact that the tractor started right up as it always had he drove the tractor 100, he shut it off, greased his mower and now it will not start, and the plugs are dry all this leads me to believe it is a fuel problem. Much easier way to check if it does have a stuck valve, in my opinion would be to pull air intake tube from carb, hold your palm over the air intake on carb while cranking the engine, it should draw fairly strong and should not puff compression back, if it is pushing compression back then you have an open valve. The important thing we should be trying to do here is helping the man find and fix his problem. I am not so sure I am cut out for this type of forum it seems I can not express an opinion without somehow offending someone else, best I just keep my opinions to myself.

 

[Soundguy]

I drove a 4 cyl ford 4000 off a trailer from a show, parked it in the barn, went to use it again, clink clink, clink, clink, clink, clink room,roomroom. that's right.. those were all pushrods bending from stuck valves!

I parked my 850 after unloading some hay, parked it by the barn to air a front tire. started it later.. clink! pop,pop,pop, chug running on 3 cyls. again. another stuck valve, and pushrod.

so yeah. stuck valves DO just happen... btdt, got the greasy rags!

My pushrods were bent soo bad I had to cut them with bolt cutters to get them out of the head and block. .. luckilly valves survived.

N is a hair different with that flatty vs an OHV engine.. but N valves surely can stick. btdt too.

No need to get hostile. ...I agree that it isn't a compression issue in terms of ring wear. But stuck valves do happen. And yea it is possible to drive 100' and have one hang. Cause last time it was parked and started fine it might not have stopped with the can holding that calve open and this time it did.

And to be clear, no one is saying tear it apart cause that's the issue. We are all just throwing out ideas. Check the easy stuff first. And if it is getting good hot spark, and still won't pop with fas or starter fluid spraid directly in the intake, the problem isn't likely to be fuel or spark related at all. I think that's all he is trying to point out. And the fact that a comp test is pretty easy to do.

 

[Soundguy]

Not trying to stifle your opinion. I just had issue with the 'it is not compression' statement.

It surely COULD be compression.. untill it is EASILLY crossed of the list with a thumb / palm check on carb mouth / plug holes.

A fuel stoppage test can ALSO be easilly checked spritzing fuel into the carb.. starter fluid.. etc.

you need spark, fuel, air, compression, and correct timing.

PS. driving 10-100-1000 foot and shutting down has -0- bearing on whether a valve can hang.

the op needs to reverify spark, verify compression, check fuel introduction.. if still nada.. check timing... I'd suspect timing last, AFTER valves in most cases.. yet again.. it IS possible. weve all seen advance mechanisms sieze and take flight.

I did not mean to imply that it in no way could not be compression nor did I mean to call Soundguy out as not knowing what he was talking about. I should have worded that a little differently maybe "I do not believe it to be a compression issue" might have been much better. Or that "it is highly unlikely to be compression issue". the fact that the tractor started right up as it always had he drove the tractor 100, he shut it off, greased his mower and now it will not start, and the plugs are dry all this leads me to believe it is a fuel problem. Much easier way to check if it does have a stuck valve, in my opinion would be to pull air intake tube from carb, hold your palm over the air intake on carb while cranking the engine, it should draw fairly strong and should not puff compression back, if it is pushing compression back then you have an open valve. The important thing we should be trying to do here is helping the man find and fix his problem. I am not so sure I am cut out for this type of forum it seems I can not express an opinion without somehow offending someone else, best I just keep my opinions to myself.

 

[merlynr]

I've started my H and drove a hundred feet and turned it off only realize I didn't turn the gas on.

 

[grainger12002]

Terry, Lots of smart people here for sure, one thing w those carbs is the main jet in the bottom can trap debris, sounds like fuel to me and if the simple items still don't get her to fire drop the bowl make sure the float moves and the seat is free of debris, also make a pass with a thin mechanics type wire as well as compressed air, check the main jet and report to the panel !!

Good luck, you will find it

 

[Soundguy]

I've started my H and drove a hundred feet and turned it off only realize I didn't turn the gas on.

i've done that on my 950 mowing tractor.

apparently carb holds enough gas to get me out of the pasture, thru the front gate and jst pulled onto the road where it will stall leaving my driveway. .. in the road.