A couple of "strange" towing/tie down questions

   / A couple of "strange" towing/tie down questions #1  

SammyNole

Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2016
Messages
29
Location
Florida Panhandle
Tractor
Kioti CK4010HST
Hello all. I have searched for these answers, but admittedly not much, because, honestly, I figure no one has really asked these questions before. I wanted some input on a couple of things that kind of randomly came up in the past few days.

Background:
I have a Kioti CK4010HST (2734 lbs) with KL4010 FEL (840 lbs), for a total weight of 3574 pounds. I live in flat Florida, so no need for loaded tires (I had them filled with water, but created too many unacceptable ruts in the yard).

I am going to be buying a 7'x20' trailer (18'+2' dovetail) with 2x-3500lb axles and dual brakes in the spring. At the same time, my father-in-law will be giving us a pretty decent Saab 9-5 that he is having a few nitpicky issues that he is tired of messing with. In researching tiedowns for the Saab, I ran across a few options that I am wandering why they would not work for CUTs. Just wanting some input on these ideas because so far I have been having trouble finding suitable tiedown spots for the Kioti (though I hope to never have to tow it!), and it would be nice to be able to use the stuff I bought to get the Saab home for more than one project.

Questions:
1) I found these "Wheel Nets" that are essentialy ratchet straps that go around the top 1/3 of the tires and ratchet to stake pockets or other suitable outside tiedown spots on the trailer. Has anyone used these to haul their CUT? Why would they not work? They have a load capacity of 3,333 lbs each, so four would give me 13,332 lbs of working load capacity.

Edit: These straps are 10' long, with a ring on one end that the loose end loops through, which would then allow it to adjust to any size tire, as long as you have enough strap to get to the ratchet/tiedown point. So the same strap could be used for both the smaller front tire and the substantially larger rear tire. The strap then goes into the ratchet, which on the ones I bought have 18" of 5/16" (I think?) chain and grab hook to secure to the trailer.

Tire tie down.jpg

2) In the same vane, I also found these axle straps. Wrap them around the axles (in my case the rear of the tractor has been the real problem area for finding a suitable tiedown solution) and use ratchet straps or chains to secure the car or machine to the trailer. They have the same 3,333 lbs load limit, for a total capacity of 13,332 lbs.

Axle Straps.jpg

3) While home for Christmas I found some old Ford Super Duty tow hooks hanging in my granddad's shop from a truck I had in 2000/1. For the front, I have been toying with building a tiedown plate sandwiched between the grille guard and the front frame, but have not pursued it because of the need to cut nice holes or to weld on tiedown rings. Neither are an issue for me, but I thought it would be easier to use the same plate and secure these tow hooks to the sandwiched plate and drill three holes to attach each hook. They are secured with either 12 or 14mm bolts (I forget which and haven't confirmed since I got them home). Again, I figure if these were designed by Ford engineers to tow or pull a 6-7000 truck out of a ditch that they may be capable of being a reasonably secure tiedown point.

SD Tow Hook.jpg

Sorry for the long post and many questions, but I thought it would be better to try to address all three similar questions in one post rather than try to parse them out in three different threads.

Thanks in advance for any and all input!
 
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   / A couple of "strange" towing/tie down questions #2  
I think those wheel nets are for a specific size tire. So be sure to check for that.

I don't like wrapping straps around anything. They can chafe and cut with vibration. I'd use chains/hooks at the attachment points.

Can't help you with the Ford hooks..... I'm a Chevy guy! :p
 
   / A couple of "strange" towing/tie down questions
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Thanks for the input. I went back and edited my original post to include this, but the straps are 10 feet long with a welded loop on one end that you run the loose end of the strap through. So it can be infinitely adjustable as long as you have enough strap to get back to the ratchet/tiedown point. And the axle straps have reinforced jacket to help with the rubbing issue, but I am with you on the chaffing issue. At the same time, I did not want to run a chain around my axle to scratch the heck out of it, either, though.
 
   / A couple of "strange" towing/tie down questions #4  
From a DOT inspection stand point, you have to tie down for half the weight of the machine, I would simply call the manufacturer of the tire straps and ask them if u can use them for a tractor,get it in writing from them saying you can, because In the end it all boils down to you killing someone in a accident and the insurance company’s coming back on you with your tire straps if the tractor comes off the trailer.

Since the machine is under 10,000 pounds you do not have to tie down the FEL.
 
   / A couple of "strange" towing/tie down questions #5  
My quick thoughts, If the tire loop strap is loose enough to chafe, it is too loose--and if you are not towing tractor on regular basis, any 'wear' would be very minimal. related to trailer, consider 5k axles, as I dont think they will add much to the cost, but It would let you load larger tractor, more than one pallet of sod, or pavers, and likely would greatly increase resale value/demand.
 
   / A couple of "strange" towing/tie down questions #6  
I do not have an answer for your tie down question.

I DO have a suggestion about the trailer you are planning to buy.

Your tractor at 3574 lbs., plus an estimated empty trailer weight of 3400 lbs. (I have a 20' equipment trailer) will gross out at approximately 6974 lbs.
You are planning to buy a trailer with two 3500 lb. axles, for a projected load that is only 26 lbs. under GVWR maximum?
Will you ever put any additional weight on the trailer?
Adding anything else, other than a big bag of feathers, will exceed the GVWR of your trailer.

You absolutely should buy a 10,000 lb. GVWR trailer (two 5000 lb. axles).

You should also consider getting as many "D" ring tie downs as is reasonably possible.
Stake pockets should be plentiful, and a rub rail is essential.
Spring type axles (cheaper) may be better in Florida, as torsion axle rubber will possibly deteriorate over time in the Florida heat.
Do get 16" wheels!

Unless you have a "dually" or some other heavy duty vehicle, you should strongly consider a weight distribution/sway control hitch. I find the "Equal-i-zer" brand to be the best for both of those functions.

I frequently read here of folks needing to pay hefty amounts to a dealer for tractor repair transportation.
While buying a trailer for tractor repair purposes would not be cost effective, I find that having a 20' equipment trailer, for other uses, is very convenient.
In most cases, a well kept used trailer can be resold, if necessary, for almost the same price as the original cost.

I would recommend AGAINST buying a used trailer however. Many (if not most) are in neglected/unsafe condition.

If you want to custom order a trailer I have heard that Kaufmanntrailers.com is very good company to deal with, and they will ship anywhere in the USA. My trailer is not from Kaufmann, but in the future I would likely buy from them. Kaufmann pricing seems to be excellent also.

HAPPY TRAILER 2018 HUNTING !!
 
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   / A couple of "strange" towing/tie down questions #7  
Bolt on some rated industrial lifting eyes and use chain and binders.
[video]https://www.google.ca/search?q=lifting+eye+hook&client=safari&hl=en-ca&prmd=isvn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiht7LZ8rHYAhWlx4MKHTn5BOgQ_AUIESgB&biw=1024&bih=648#imgrc=z3hzxqN83jbA9M:[/video]

Straps work well as long as they are not wrapped around or able to chafe on the items they are holding down.
 
   / A couple of "strange" towing/tie down questions #8  
those wheel nets would be fine; they are a staple of the car hauling industry. straps are made to be wrapped around things and not disintegrate at the worst times. mine have a protective fabric sleeve over most of the length of the strap that protects the actual strap while it is wrapped around something
 
   / A couple of "strange" towing/tie down questions #9  
those wheel nets would be fine; they are a staple of the car hauling industry. straps are made to be wrapped around things and not disintegrate at the worst times. mine have a protective fabric sleeve over most of the length of the strap that protects the actual strap while it is wrapped around something

I took an old fire hose and made some protective sleeves to go on my straps.
 
   / A couple of "strange" towing/tie down questions #10  
One thought. Axle straps often won稚 work on cars or trucks some times there are brake lines or something that would get crushed.
 

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