A Deer Fence for the Dog Pasture

[GabeTX]

15lbs of staples later, here's the first line. The tension isn't quite right in the top, and the area where I over-tensioned it and broke the chain pull is a bit messed up, but it's not that horrible. And I now have a much better clue about what I should be doing on subsequent lines.

890' down, 1510' and 4 gates to go. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

And there's no need to worry, Larry. The Folgers can is actually a Deluxe Hard-Shell Camera Container, not a staple bucket. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[DocHeb]

Check out Charlie Iliff's solution to unrolling fence:

Charlie's Fence Unroller

Certainly easier than unrolling it on the ground and then trying to stand it up.

 

[kcir]

Gabe,

Lucky for me you posted this. I am about to use the same wire to do my place only in the 48". I am using 2 7/8 pipe for post and top rail instead of wood. I was going to use the ties they have to clamp it to the post. Do you recommend using the tools they say for stretching or do you have another suggestion? Any suggestion is welcome.

Good job on your fence.

Rick

 

[GabeTX]

Rick,

You definitely want to use the recommended tools for this stuff. The wire is under a lot of tension, and it remains under tension after you've tied it off or spliced it. Stretcher bars made from 2x4s won't be able to hold the wire well enough to tigthen it well. You might be able to get away with come-a-longs instead of the chain grabs, but the advantage of the chain grabs is that they have a much longer reach (20') and if something breaks when you're tensioning I think it'd be safer: chain doesn't recoil when it breaks; steel cable does.

That said, there's two companies that manufacture high-tensile woven wire (Stay-Tite and Bekaert), and several that manufacture the tools for it. If you've only looked at Stay-Tite's tools and wire, shop around some, because they're on the expensive side. Kencove Fence (www.kencove.com) carries Bekaert wire and non Stay-Tite tools and is an online price source. They have the best prices I've found on crimp sleeves and some of the other hardware.

Also, the dealer you buy from may loan out the tools. Mine sold me the tools (stretcher bars and chain pulls) at cost, with an offer to buy them back when I'm done.

As for other suggestions... Don't scrimp at all on the braces. Make sure you meet the manufacturer's recommended minimums for the post diameter, depth, and cross-brace length. I built mine to spec; 6" minimum diameter wood posts set 5' in the ground (the bottom 3' in solid rock) with a 14' cross brace. After I tensioned the fence, there was a 1/2" gap between the brace posts and the soil on the side opposite the pull. The braces are the most important part of the fence.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

I have not done any curves like you want but I have done corners and if you brace them you should be fine. Also, if the fence does start to lean it will take some time. It is not like if you go to work and come home the fence will have fallen over. It will take a long time for it to lean and if you notice it start to lean just brace the post that is leaning.

 

[GabeTX]

I braced the posts on the curve with 4' deadmen and they're staying nice and upright. So far. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

All the wire is up! Now I just need to learn how to weld, make several gates, hang them, and I'll be done! End of June, tops. Hopefully June 2006.

Still reading, Robert_in_NY (or anyone else, for that matter)? Is it normal for the brace posts to pull up just a little? Some of my braces have come up a 1/2" or so. I'm not worried about them flat-out failing (should I be?); they're built to spec (6" posts 5' deep) and the bottom 3' or so of the holes they're in is solid limestone. But I am worried that they'll pull up enough to look ugly.

Is there any trick to putting them back in if they do start to pull out?

 

[GabeTX]

I braced the posts on the curve with 4' deadmen and they're staying nice and upright. So far. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

All the wire is up! Now I just need to learn how to weld, make several gates, hang them, and I'll be done! End of June, tops. Hopefully June 2006.

Still reading, Robert_in_NY (or anyone else, for that matter)? Is it normal for the brace posts to pull up just a little? Some of my braces have come up a 1/2" or so. I'm not worried about them flat-out failing (should I be?); they're built to spec (6" posts 5' deep) and the bottom 3' or so of the holes they're in is solid limestone. But I am worried that they'll pull up enough to look ugly.

Is there any trick to putting them back in if they do start to pull out?

 

[Robert_in_NY]

I wouldn't be worried about the half inch. You should not have any problems with the post being in 5 foot deep. The only post we ever have had problems with is the latch post for a couple of our gates where we couldn't brace them properly for various reasons. All we do if they start to lift is push them down with the loader on the TN. A sledge hammer would do the job also if you don't have a loader.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

I wouldn't be worried about the half inch. You should not have any problems with the post being in 5 foot deep. The only post we ever have had problems with is the latch post for a couple of our gates where we couldn't brace them properly for various reasons. All we do if they start to lift is push them down with the loader on the TN. A sledge hammer would do the job also if you don't have a loader.

 

[GabeTX]

Cool--that's a load off my mind. I had (irrational, I know, but I can't help it!) visions of coming home to pulled-up end posts and a lot of work undone.

I appreciate all your advice in this thread; thanks!