A few questions about the TC18

   / A few questions about the TC18 #11  
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Cast Iron Rear End.

Very happy with mine. Get the loader. $3,000 +/- now versus more later... Well worth the money. Unless you've got another tractor with a loader.
 
   / A few questions about the TC18
  • Thread Starter
#12  
I'm planning on using the 48" Fred Cain finish mower I have now. I've found it's useful in cutting under apple trees, since I can back under the tree without getting involved with low hanging branches. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

I'd like to have a FEL. I may call back and get a price from the dealer. The tractor does not have power steering, though, and I don't know how it would handle the FEL.

Anyway, I'm pretty much on the edge of what I can spend now. Let me see...$3000 for FEL, $15,000 for divorce lawyer... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / A few questions about the TC18 #13  
<font color="blue">I guess it is sort of like Swiss versus Japanese wrist watches, both keep time, both are accurate, one costs a lot more and the price is based on design, brand, and level of complications (something very important to watch collectors).
</font>

Bob! Your getting pretty deep /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif here. I might have to engage the draft control /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gifand put my boots on. Actually, I find your analogies quite /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gifthought provoking. I've never heard anyone equate tractors to swiss watches /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif and watch collectors. Myself, I would never take a swiss watch out into the field.
Here's an analogy I'll try. You have a shoe maker. He has made just a fine pair of custom wing tip dress shoes. Now he has also made a pair of work boots /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif, steel toes, waterproof, designed for warmth and comfort. Which one would you take out into the field to move dirt/snow/stones?

Just to get back onto the original topic by the poster. I don't think the lack of power steering will bother you for mowing grass. If you decide on a FEL you would benefit from using a ballast/weight hanging from the 3 point to remove some of the weight, from a loaded bucket, off the front end to ease up the steering.

Don
 
   / A few questions about the TC18 #14  
Where are tractors built?
Posted July/2003

<font color="blue"> For CUTs only:
Kubota - BX in Georgia, B & L Series in Japan
NH - 18-24hp in Japan, rest in Georgia
JD - 18-24hp in Japan, rest in Georgia

OEM attachments are built in the all over the world. Loaders tend to be from the US, MMM from the US & Japan, & tillers from Italy.

There must be something about Georgia & tractors.

Big Dave
TC33D, R4, FEL, 60" MMM
</font>
 
   / A few questions about the TC18 #15  
<font color="blue"> Myself, I would never take a switch watch out into the field. </font>

All I own are premium brand Swiss watches and I like them because I find them more durable. Now I am smart enough to wear stainless steel watches in the field, but they are still pretty pricy, but I think worth it.
 
   / A few questions about the TC18
  • Thread Starter
#16  
The reason I was asking about the rear housing is that I have heard of cast aluminum housings being broken by an operator hitting a stump with an attachment (I think it was a rotary mower). It broke the lower link pin mounts away from the housing, making the tractor essentially useless. I suppose everything can be broken and maybe it was operator carelessness, but I know I've handled mine more gingerly since I saw it was aluminum. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Most tractors I have seen have had cast iron housing. I'm new to the CUT idea, and I'm surprised to see so many aluminum housings out there.

Thanks for all the good input! I'm going ahead with the purchase. It seems like a good deal.
 
   / A few questions about the TC18 #17  
<font color="blue"> Now I am smart enough to wear stainless steel watches in the field, but they are still pretty pricy, but I think worth it.
</font>
Bob,
You lost me. I thought you were analogizing and we were discussing something between cast iron, aluminum and steel with regards to tractors. Not "Accessory Time-Pieces for Field Use." /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif Now that could be a whole nother thread.

Don
 
   / A few questions about the TC18 #18  
Cast iron is a stronger material for the transaxle castings on a compact tractor. Cast iron weighs more, but I don't see this as a drawback. The greater corrosion resistance of aluminum is not really important here. Aluminum costs more per pound, but cast iron costs more to cast and machine.

As others have observed, New Holland uses cast iron throughout their compact tractor line. I don't know what they are using for their new subcompacts. Kubota uses aluminum in their BX tractors, and the B7500/B2410. I believe that John Deere uses significant amounts of aluminum in the 2210 through the 4310.

I have personal experience with the JD 2210 and the Kubota B7500. Both machines use the steel tractor frame as the attaching points for the lower 3 point arms, which reduces stresses on the transaxle from implements. But the aluminum transaxle is vulnerable to forces transmitted through the drive axles as well as from objects underneath the tractor.

Assuming equally good design and manufacturing, I would prefer cast iron.
 
   / A few questions about the TC18 #19  
Don,

I don't wear watches nor rings while working. Seen too many people get hung by rings while working as a medic in the Army. Dad used to short his watch bands out across battery connections.

I've an il-cheapo little watch gooped to a flat spot on my Gravely for working in the field. When its battery quits, I'll get another. Bought it in Kroeger.

Ralph
 

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