A Question for Class III Hydro Top Link Users

[tc35dforme]

Hi,

I'm in the final steps of selecting a hydraulic top link for my TC35D. It will be primarily for boxblade use. My big question...what do you guys run for lengths ( min / max ).

My stock ( manual ) link closes down to about 19 1/2". I had thought I wanted a hydro link that could go from maybe 17" to 24" or so. This would give me a bit more on each end.

The unit I have in mind is 20" - 28".

Am I crazy to think I will need to go as short as 17" ?
Am I looking a potential damage if I pull in too far ?

I know this topic has been discussed at length, but I was hoping to get specific info from Class III users.

Thanks

 

[MikePA]

<font color="blue">...but I was hoping to get specific info from Class II users.</font>
Did you mean Class III users?

The rule of thumb is that the hydraulic toplink should have the same range as the stock top link. Too short and it can cause interference problems. Too long and it may put too much stress on the toplink anchor point.

 

[tc35dforme]

OOOOOPS /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[Spencer]

I have a Class II TC33D and I think that it is nice to have the link be shorter than the factory link.

 

[jinman]

Shorter is fine as long as you don't go so short that your toplink rotates down in an arc and your boxblade lays flat on its face. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif I had this happen with a homemade middle buster once. It wasn't the toplink, but the incorrect toplink geometry of middle buster ( not enough height from the side links to the top link). Anyhow, Leave your toplink off and drive forward with your boxblade. It will rotate forward to your desired minimum toplink length and you can measure the cutting angle and do some other geometry checks to ensure it won't flip. In the most retracted position, your implements toplink should be well above tractor's toplink attach point. Also consider that your boxblade may dig down a few inches into the soil and be lower than the bottom of your tires. That's the situation where you need to ensure the toplink can't flip through.

When you extend your toplink, you don't want it to extend so far the bottom of your boxblade rotates forward into your tires. My Cat. 2 hydraulic toplink will do that, so I have to be really careful not to over-extend. Of course, when the boxblade starts thrashing around as the tires hit it, it's an immediate notification that I've done something stupid...again. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[tc35dforme]

Jinman,

I never thought about that issue with a short link. After looking at my hitch, and the box blade link, I would be hard pressed to get a link short enough to allow a roll. It would be in the 6-10" range to get to the breakover point.

I've got so many rocks up here, I guess rolling the box blade rippers too far forward won't buy me much. I'll be better with smaller bites. The 20" should be fine.

We'll see.