A safer alternative to Roundup

[super55]

A possible consideration in this scenario if no herbicides were to be used could be to till the pasture and plant it with oats. This could serve a couple purposes. 1. You could get competitive cover crop in to choke out the weeds 2. If it does end up reseeding itself it usually can't last past the first one or two hard frost and 3. If this summer we end up with drought conditions and the current pastures end up bare than you could move the horses back in the pasture and not have to end up buying hay. Ideally it would be best to keep the horses out because once they start munching and exposing the weeds underneath to sunlight from eating the oats they'll take off.

Oats are very easy to manage and are often used as a nurse crop to help compete with weeds for the first year when planting timothy/alfalfa stands because they grow so fast and the alfalfa/timothy is so slow to establish and can't compete with weeds very well initially.

 

[charlz]

I did a controlled burn on my grass hay field this spring and when I walk the field I don't think it did much in the way of weed control. Probably killed a lot of weed seed but the established stuff wasn't even up yet when it was the right time to burn.

Is the type of grass in there the kind that spreads by rhizome? If so regular fertilizer and mowing may help get it strong enough to choke out the weeds. I believe you are not supposed to graze for a few weeks after fertilizer application though so if there is a horse grazing the field it would need to be moved.

Does it get enough water to actually grow a cover crop over summer? If so a cover crop followed by fall planting would probably be the best way to reduce weeds in the new growth.

 

[Creamer]

Here is an interesting demonstration showing rainwater absorption and runoff in the same soils with different covers.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z9K9idBcJLY&sns=fb

 

[Smallplot]

More than likely this is a fertility issue and not something else. I personally would never consider planting a cover crop in this situation as more than likely what ever you plant will still suffer from the same deficiencies as the grass. And a cover crop will not only stop the weeds but also the grass as well. If planted light enough to filter some light for grass, then you will have weeds still competing for the same light.

Soil tests are cheap and will provide quick information about your soils fertility. Since you describe the area as being overtaken by weeds this tells me there was an issue with the health of the grass. Without proper nutrients grass will become unhealthy just like any other plant. Add to this any other stresses like overgrazing or drought and other weeds can gain the lead.

As far as planting a cover crop without using a herbicide in this situation you are not addressing the weed problem unless tillage is performed. Weed suppression by chemical means usually lasts longer than tillage as tillage brings new weed seeds to the top where they readily germinate in the warm soils. In this case one looks for a cover crop which will quickly grow and offer some protection to a new crop allowing it to get established. Establishment however will not be weed free.

 

[Pilot]

Many pages back the OP said he didn't want to sterilize the soil with Roundup. Won't happen, it doesn't hurt the soil. It is absorbed by the leaves and transferred to the roots where it blocks an essential plant enzyme, an enzyme that is only found in plants, which is why it doesn't hurt humans.

So many people get all upset over chemicals or other stuff that isn't "natural" forgetting that everything we eat is a combination of chemicals and that some plants are naturally toxic. Most food products aren't tested for safety, while herbicides go thru a rigorous testing process; some have safety issues, which is why you need to read the labels and the MSDS for any herbicide you are considering, being aware at the same time that an MSDS is written to protect the company by disclosing any possible problem, however remote.

 

[Pilot]

Many pages back the OP said he didn't want to sterilize the soil with Roundup. Won't happen, it doesn't hurt the soil. It is absorbed by the leaves and transferred to the roots where it blocks an essential plant enzyme, an enzyme that is only found in plants, which is why it doesn't hurt humans.

So many people get all upset over chemicals or other stuff that isn't "natural" forgetting that everything we eat is a combination of chemicals and that some plants are naturally toxic. Most food products aren't tested for safety, while herbicides go thru a rigorous testing process; some have safety issues, which is why you need to read the labels and the MSDS for any herbicide you are considering, being aware at the same time that an MSDS is written to protect the company by disclosing any possible problem, however remote.

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

I've been doing this in a small field and it "seems" to be working, the grasses are winning in a big way, it looks good. But I'm on the 3rd season. It's satisfying but not "quick".

As a former landscaper, not farmer, I've renovated many lawns this way. Mowing plus organic fertilizer. Sounds too simple but it works. Regular (high) mowing alone helps a lot. Add an organic fertilizer like Milorganite and it's much quicker. Chemical fertilizers don't work well as they just quickly boost the growth of whatever's there (weeds). The Milorganite adds organic matter to the soil, improving water retention, which weeds hate. As you said, the grass starts to "win"; I usually see visible results within a few months, a big change the next spring, and it gets better every year. This isn't about hating chemicals; it's about what works. Weeds LOVE a plowed/disced field. Just saying'....

 

[Redneck in training]

Weeds LOVE a plowed/disced field. Just saying'....

Second that. Ask me how do I know. My wife sprays RoungUp on bottom of our fence. Guess what sprouts there first.

 

[Jstpssng]

As a former landscaper, not farmer, I've renovated many lawns this way. Mowing plus organic fertilizer. Sounds too simple but it works. Regular (high) mowing alone helps a lot. Add an organic fertilizer like Milorganite and it's much quicker. Chemical fertilizers don't work well as they just quickly boost the growth of whatever's there (weeds). The Milorganite adds organic matter to the soil, improving water retention, which weeds hate. As you said, the grass starts to "win"; I usually see visible results within a few months, a big change the next spring, and it gets better every year. This isn't about hating chemicals; it's about what works. Weeds LOVE a plowed/disced field. Just saying'....

I find it ironic that " Milorganite" can be considered organic, given it's origins. I'm not trying to be critical, just making a comment.

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

I find it ironic that " Milorganite" can be considered organic, given it's origins. I'm not trying to be critical, just making a comment.

Yep, it's made from composted sewage. Kind of yucky to think about, but then so is most fertilizer. All I know is the grass loves it.