Aaaarggggh! I broke it! Help!

[shrike]

Here' s a photo.

Bruce

 

[JerryG]

What I would do is put a spacer between the tangs that is the same thickness as it was originally, then take a big hammer to it. It will straighten right out.

 

[MikePA]

<font color="blue"> I guarantee that I will no longer be using that type of pin for my top link.
</font>
I've never had any problems with these pins coming out. In fact, the only problem I've had with these pins is they can snap shut and pinch a finger. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

 

[JackIL]

I've never had a problem either. Snap pins like this are in use by the thousands on tractors of all horsepower levels. The most common occurance where they come out is on the draft links when a stiff weed or stick happens to push into the ring and flip it open. That would be less likely to happen on the top link pin.

Although most of these pins look alike, there actually are slight differences in the designs of some. In particular, for most pins, the snap lock action is not the same if flipped one way vs. the other. The correct way makes a hard (sometimes finger pinching) snap. The other way may look closed but is not a hard snap. On other designs, the hard snap occurs either way.

I think you probably experienced a fluke occurance. Please reconsider your statement to not use snap ring pins again. The alternative hairpin style clips could also come out, and for sure, you don't want to be putting in a bolt and nut.

JackIL

 

[jinman]

Bruce, there are lynch pins your dealer may put out in a bucket priced at 3-for-$1, and there are those you will pay $1.50 each for. My experience (having lost at least 10) is that you don't want to use the 3-for-$1 in any critical application. They are soft metal and bend easily, plus the latch springs sometimes pop out of the pin. I suggest only using the ones with black spring-steel latch springs or simply use a large hairpin. The hairpin is good for things you don't disconnect often. I have four stabilizer bars shaped like a "U" that attest to my experience. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[Mrwurm]

I experienced similiar problems with pins coming out either at the top link or lift arms. I have found the trouble to be not at the end that has the lynch pin, but the other end that is just small enough to sneak out. I have now resorted to placing a hairpin (no, not the kind for your hair) on the other end to keep it from falling out. I'll post a picture later.

 

[shrike]

Jerry and Jim, Prior to yesterday, I was using another hitch pin for the top link. It used a "hairpin" (I know what they are). Guess which hitch pin I will use from now on?

Bruce

 

[MadReferee]

If you are going to use a "hairpin" clip then you probably should safety wire the ends so it doesn't slip out. Years ago when I raced flat track motorcycles we used those pins on the rear axle to keep the nut from coming off. If you took the bike thru tech inspection without the pin safety wired you failed and could not get on the track until it was wired.

Vibration or a quick shock can cause those pins to shoot out like a bullet. I use one on the castle nut on my landscape rake and it flew out the other day when I hit a rock. Needless to say I now safety wire it.

 

[BillyP]

Yep, Mike. I never had one come loose and lose it, other than the human factor.

 

[Mrwurm]

Ok, here is the picture I promised. Notice, I do not use a hairpin in place of the lynch pin, I use it in addition. I've had problems with top link pins sliding out the 'other' way. So, I use a pin on both ends. I have never had one come off since.

Also, can someone show a picture of 'safety wiring' a hairpin. I am not familiar with this.