Aaaarggggh! I broke it! Help!

accordionman · Aug 6, 2003

SIR,
your "broken" part would best be straightened on a hydraulic press.
you would need a flat piece of bar stock to fill the gap between the
two brackets. i doubt if using a hammer on this thickness of steel
would do much. as far as the lynch pin, i have had problems with those
also, and replaced them with bolts. i did read a suggestion to use a
nylon tie rap.
accordionman
william l. brown

Leemac · Aug 6, 2003

Jinman, I too have problems with the cheap lynch pins. Could you tell me where I can look for Black Spring-Steel Latch Springs and what they look like. Thank You

Mrwurm · Aug 6, 2003

Jinman, link me to a thread about your loader hooks. Sounds like you came up with something new. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

jinman · Aug 6, 2003

I believe I bought mine at Tractor Supply, but it might have been my New Holland dealer. I'll check and then post a picture with more info. Sorry I don't have it "off the top of my head" /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif right now.

jinman · Aug 6, 2003

Jerry, here is a link to the post with an attachment showing my hooks, but as you can see, it only works on a Class III bucket that has an extra set of unused mounting holes. Sorry, I don't think your TC30 has anything like this.

Bucket Hooks

Inspector507 · Aug 6, 2003

The 12LA bucket has a set of unused holes too, but they are in top and would not allow you to curl the bucket back all the way if you had a pin through there.......I've considered it though /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Mrwurm · Aug 6, 2003

Thanks for the link. As they say in the engineering department; the best design is the simplest design that works.

jinman · Aug 6, 2003

Well, I took a picture of the lynch-pins so you could see the difference (see attachment). The pin with the black spring-ring is obviously much heavier than the cheap 3 for $1 type. Also, as you can see at the top of the photo, the cheap pins bend easily and their spings sometimes become frozen so that they don't close all the way. The large hairpin I put in toplinks or stabilizers where I won't be disconnecting often. I push them all the way to the large ring so they can rotate, but not bind or fall out. I've had good luck with them anywhere I would otherwise use a lynch-pin. Finally on the right are two Category 1 pins. You can get them in various lengths at Tractor Supply. If you want the premium ones with plastic coating on the handles, they are more expensive, but seem to hold up better. The only drawback to these pins is that the hole in the end is too small for a normal lynch-pin. You have to use a hairpin or a small lynch-pin. I hope this helps. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

jinman · Aug 6, 2003

I don't know if you noticed, but there is actually a through-tube on my bucket. I just put the pin through the tube. There is no danger of interference. Also, if I raise and curl the bucket with the hooks hanging downward, the lift point is essentially right at the loader pins. That gives me much more lifting capability than if the hooks were 18" to 24" out on the bucket. I've even grown to love that short section of chain which allows me to twist the hook into any position I need it. I'm sure the NH engineers didn't design it with this in mind, but it's some of the best "accidental engineering" I have ever seen. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Leemac · Aug 7, 2003

Hi Jinman Thank You very much for the attachment showing the various pins.
I'll check at TSC for the ones wih the black spring and if they don't have them, I'll check with NH Dealer. Thanks Again, Leemac