?? about tire loading!!

[BotaBrian]

Hello fellas,
I am looking into a Kubota L3130 or L3430 with the LA723 loader and am wondering if I should load the tires. The dealer tubes the tires and the puts the calcium chloride in the tube so it isn't going to corrode the rim. Any input whether this is good or bad? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif I have never had a machine with loaded tires before. Only reason I ask is because I am not going to have any counterbalance on the back of the tractor right away, and I don't want any accidents. I am going to get a Harley Pro-6 power rake later down the road for my business. I asked about the weight box for the back and he stated that loading the tires would be the better way to go. He said it would be more stable because of the lower center of gravity. Just want some input on what you guys think? Is calcium chloride the way to go? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif Thanks for the ifo guys! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Brian

 

[Henro]

With a loader you should have some extra weight on the back somewhere.

I loaded the tires on my B2910 Kubota AND try to have something hanging on the back also. Backhoe is best, but a box blade works well too.

IF you don't have something relatively heavy to hang on the 3PH, in my opinion you should without question load the rear tires.

One thing that is not so obvious is that weight hanging behind the rear axle tends to take load off the front axle, while loader tires don't do this.

You will be wise to load your tires if you don't plan on having other ballast on the back when using the loader.

 

[rambler]

I think what your dealer is planning to do is the best option, yes. You will probably want more weight on the 3pt, but you at least need the tires filled with CC if you don't use any other weight. Antifreeze is too light & too hazardous in my opinion.

So a big yes to your question.

--->Paul

 

[DocHeb]

Many owners are also using "Beet Juice" (brand name Rim Guard), a sugar solution that is much less corrosive than Calcium Chloride. Even with tubes, a well placed thorn can cause leakage and damage to wheels. Search under Owning/Operating for "Beet Juice" will turn up the well discussed pros and cons.

In a prior thread, Haz (Harry Saras) provided the following info:

<font color="blue">Don't give up on finding the Rim Guard (beet juice). At 11 lbs/gal, it's heavier than most of the calcium chloride solutions. It's not corrosive (in fact, it helps prevent corrosion) and non-toxic to animals or plants.

The guy who holds the patent on it is Glen Daly, in East Lansing, Michigan. If you give him a call at 517-351-6470 he'll send you info on it and tell you where the dealers are in your area. As of a few months ago, he was still hard at work expanding his dealer network. So there may not be much in your area, but it's worth a look.

</font>

 

[art]

I'm sorry but I would have resevations as to loading tires for you. You did not state what tires you are getting on your tractor, he is doing right for you by adding the tubes. When landscaping you normally want to run as light as possible so not to compact ground to enhance root growth so you might not want ot go with the calcium for that reason.

 

[Casimir]

Brian:

You will definitely need one or the other if you want to get full use out of your loader. Without some counterweight, a full load of rock or dirt in your loader will make the rear end light, perhaps even lifting one of the wheels off the ground - a very dangerous situation.

If your applications don't allow you to have a counterweight (box or implement) hanging on the 3-pt when you are using the loader, then loading the tires or adding wheel weights is the way to go. Wheel weights can be removed if necessary, but they are usually very heavy and I don't see many folks taking the time and effort to remove them to do a job and then putting them back on for the next job.

I run loaded rear tires, and with turfs or R-4's I don't consider the extra weight that damaging to my landscaping. I do a lot of loader work in tight quarters, where a box blade or weight box on the back just won't work, so I am glad I have the loaded tires.

Kip

 

[BotaBrian]

Thanks for the input guys! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif I am getting R-4's because of the all around use i'll be doing with them. I will be getting a rear implement soon I hope (Harley Pro-6 landscape rake) which weighs around 1000 - 1200 lbs. So that plus the loaded tires should do the trick. I'm sure with a toothbar this machine would be a digging monster. Thanks again guys for your honest input! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Brian

 

[slowrev]

It will dig better with R1's on it, if you are in dirt. The R1's clean their tread better and will give you more digging push.

 

[GreenMtnMan]

R1's don't work so well if you are in dirt so hard and dry that the lugs won't sink in. R4's don't either, but at least they have more contact area to work with. Depends on what your local soil conditions are like.

 

[shady1701]

R1's tend to power hop on 4wd's on hard soil too..