rScotty
Super Member
- Joined
- Apr 21, 2001
- Messages
- 9,534
- Location
- Rural mountains - Colorado
- Tractor
- Kubota M59, JD530, JD310SG. Restoring Yanmar YM165D
Glad to hear it. Halfway. BTW, That's a nice machine.
Yes, it is a lot of money and the first time at least I think that most of us end up taking the dealer's word for what is a good deal and what isn't. I know I didn't grow up learning how to negotiate for big money. That said, your deal actually sounds pretty good. As you use the machine and swap info with other tractor folks you'll probably figure out that although a new tractor is nice to have, it isn't so important that the implements and tools that the tractor uses be new. What I'm saying is that used implements work pretty much the same as new ones and cost half as much. 2nd hand Implements are where you can save real money.
In tractors like most things the trick is to put everything you want onto a contract - price it all out using standard online pricing where you can....and then you and the dealer get down to negotiating for what the final (discounted) price should be. Don't be in a hurry. A good negotiating session can take anywhere from one cup of coffee to an hour.
And should stretch over at least a few visits but not so many as to become boring.
As far as I'm concerned, when I am serious about a purchase every item in on the contract including tractor, all implements, cost of financing or not, downpayment, and things like insurance and warranty are all negotiable. My own technique is to let the dealer know that I am serious - if we get a deal done, I WILL BUY that tractor.
Frankly I try to get about 10% off the first total price put together by the dealer - and I think he not only expects but also enjoys the dickering process. I know I do.
Keep in mind that 10% is pretty darn good....maybe excellent. It all depends on where you start, but I'd be dancing if I actually got 10% off. Usually I don't. After all, the dealer is real good at doing this. It's a game; so enjoy it.
Generally I have the best luck negotiating not for price but instead I try to include on the contract some of the things which would cost me as a customer, but which are big low-cost/high profit items for the dealer.
For instance I always negotiate for who is responsible for hauling the tractor home and for any required warranty or repair work. And I always try to negotiate for a longer warranty - but not too successfully so far. I expect to do better on that as extended and 3rd party warrantys become more common.
It isn't hard to negotiate for a super deal on used implements - most dealers have a pile of those tucked away somewhere that they got in trade. Box blades and basic angling back blades can be almost free - but on the other hand a heavily built multi-adjustable back (or front) grading blade with adjustable angle, offset, and tilt can be 90% of new even when it is obviously worn. Old multi-adjustable 6 to 8 foot back blades by Massey, Servis, or Big Rhino are golden regardless of condition. Box blades not so much...
Almost always I will try to get one or more of the warranty-required hourly services included. The 50 hr. or 200 hr for example.
At the very least when negotiating for a warranty required service if the dealer is beating me on the negotiating (which is usually!) then I might shift over and move down to me paying for filters and oil, but him providing hauling and labor costs. That is something easier to get.
And Finally, I like to try to include a printed copy of the workshop manual and the parts manual in the contract. These are always available when a tractor is new, but harder to find later. Depending on how nice the manuals are, they tend to be in the $75 to $100 dollar range EACH. Or at least I try to get these at the dealer's cost....but whatever they cost, get them. You may well have this tractor for 50 years. In that time you are going to want the references.
Enjoy!
rScotty