About turbo waste gates

[fitterski]

I'm thinking of a small instrument cluster with oil pressure, oil red light, rpm, boost and thanks to you, egt. I'm actually in the middle of an argument with someone outside this forum about what maximum temperatures would be thinkable downstream of a turbo with no intercooling with different ambient temps up to maybe 2000 rpm. I'm not at that stage yet, I will be back here with questions about sensors and gauges in a month or so.

 

[dieselcrawler]

EGT pre-turbo gives you the best reading of the temp at the cylinder, while post-turbo is less accurate, and is 200º-300º cooler. The only reason you care about EGT in the first place is to keep the aluminum pistons from melting, and the EGT kept below 1100º-1200º keeps them solid!

 

[fitterski]

EGT pre-turbo gives you the best reading of the temp at the cylinder, while post-turbo is less accurate, and is 200ｺ-300ｺ cooler. The only reason you care about EGT in the first place is to keep the aluminum pistons from melting, and the EGT kept below 1100ｺ-1200ｺ keeps them solid!

you have something against fords?:laughing:

I'm going to swap my intercooler turbo duct for a non-intercooler one if i find someone with the reciprocal idea. I can buy the rpm sensor from Cummins, the one you screw into the flywheel housing almost touching the flywheel, i don't know what gauge i would need for that. There is a water temp sensor in the head of the engine, again I'd need to get a gauge for it. EGT I have never used on a car, saw a set for a small airplane and bought it for my late brother for his piper super-cub. It cost a fortune, I haven't seen an EGT port on this exhaust manifold. There's an oil pressure sensor in the block that I can tap a direct-reading or electrical gauge into. I would LIKE to find an oil gauge that shorts a circuit to ground (for a flashing red light) at a _settable_ pressure. Finally maybe a boost gauge if needed, which I doubt.

 

[dieselcrawler]

Look up Auto meter gauges, that's what's in my trucks. They sell an EGT gauge with probe, you have to drill/tap a 1/8" NPT hole in your exhaust manifold. Cost about $100- $150 If I recall.

 

[3Lfarms]

Look up Auto meter gauges, that's what's in my trucks. They sell an EGT gauge with probe, you have to drill/tap a 1/8" NPT hole in your exhaust manifold. Cost about $100- $150 If I recall.

I believe they are just a K type thermocouple. All it really takes is a cheap voltmeter to read it. The pyrometer gauges are pretty overpriced.

 

[fitterski]

Look up Auto meter gauges, that's what's in my trucks. They sell an EGT gauge with probe, you have to drill/tap a 1/8" NPT hole in your exhaust manifold. Cost about $100- $150 If I recall.

I did, thanks, that's the ballpark price. I just bought a couple of injectors from RockAuto, they also carry a long list of gauges. To begin with I'll try to make us of the existing sensors and just buy indicators for them; I need to know if any are just switches etc. The host truck was probably a '94/'95 diesel Ram. I can steal the tach sensor and gauge from the other engine.

Oil-Pr transmitter (below injection pump, 2-pin)?


Water-Temp sensor (left rear head corner, single-pin)?


Boost-Pr (top of intake chamber, 2-pin)?

 

[fitterski]

Re: About turbo waste gates and gauges

I believe they are just a K type thermocouple. All it really takes is a cheap voltmeter to read it. The pyrometer gauges are pretty overpriced.

They're all grossly overpriced, but so are the voltmeters :laughing: I could spend a grand just on on a 4 gauge cluster, it's ridiculous!

I should get me 5" dials because in the present rig that I push with the loader it's all 15 feet out there in front of me. Now I just have a 5" rpm and a 2" oil-pr but often they both get totally covered with snow that blows around and I can't see diddly squat

Not that I need more tachs but I did find a wireless one somewhere, lost the link though.

 

[3Lfarms]

I’m not sure I’d worry too much about a tach if you are using a bone stock P pump. You cant really over rev a Cummins. The internals are good to at least 5k RPMs, but it wont fuel much past 3200, and with the stock governor springs, it will start defueling at about 2400 RPM.

You can mod the pump and springs to fuel all the way to about 7k RPMs, but that would be a full race mod. I don’t think that is part of the plan for this snowblower

 

[fitterski]

I’m not sure I’d worry too much about a tach if you are using a bone stock P pump. You cant really over rev a Cummins. The internals are good to at least 5k RPMs, but it wont fuel much past 3200, and with the stock governor springs, it will start defueling at about 2400 RPM. You can mod the pump and springs to fuel all the way to about 7k RPMs, but that would be a full race mod. I don’t think that is part of the plan for this snowblower

The P-pump *is* stock and at this point I don't plan to jazz up this engine, I have another one for that. But sitting in the loader I can barely hear the current mufflerfree Deutz on the snow-blower. I would however like to give the 6BT a muffler and fear that in that case I won't hear it at all. I do have the *large tach and no-brainer pickup set* on my other 6bt however and can rob it off. The only thing better that that would be the wireless that I could stick on the inside of the loader windshield

AutoHack Guys Wireless Tachometer - YouTube