Actually a DIY repair but not specifically tractor related

[etpm]

I have an old B. F. Barnes lathe that was probably made in the late 1890s and certainly no later than 1906. I have been acquiring age appropriate stuff to go along with it, stuff that was made no later than 1906. The lathe itself is in very good shape, not just cosmetically but also mechanically. Just for fun I tried turning some shafts that had a plus .0002" minus .0000" tolerance over a 1 inch distance. I was able to do so.
Anyway, I bought an indicator with a total .010" travel that was made in 1906, my cut off date. Today I decided to clean and oil the thing. Doing so I bent the needle. While straightening the needle I managed to unseat a spring. So I had to take it apart. It turned out the very end of the needle was slightly bent and the needle needed some polishing. I straightened the needle after polishing, which was a very delicate operation.
Now I had to put it back together and I couldn't figure out how to hold the spring to the needle so that I could wind the spring so that it put tension on the needle. In the end I used some very fine copper wire to tie the spring in place. Then I assembled the indicator, cut the wire, and it now works better than it ever has.
After patting myself on the back (almost sprained my arm!) I figured that maybe the idea of using wire to tie stuff in place during assembly, especially springs, might help other folks too. So that's why I posted this. Mostly. Partly.
Cheers,
Eric

 

[Tinhack]

I have some sheet metal tools I used to use in my antique/custom car business. I painted cars and made replacement fenders, doors, hoods, patch panels and even complete bodies for pre-war (both wars) cars. That's where I picked up the name "Tin Hack".

Anyway, I have some antique hand tools dating back to 1868 and some hand-cranked sheet metal forming tools made by Pexto from the late 1880s to the early 1900s. Some of these same designs are still being made today and cost in the $1k-$2k range. The original prices ranged from $9-$12. That was 1-2 weeks wages for most skilled workers back then.

My 30-ton Toledo #4 OBI Punch-Press was made in 1930. It still forms/punches 16-18ga sheet metal like it was paper. It was originally run by a line shaft belt, but I converted it to a motor driven belt. You still have to press the pedal to activate the clicker clutch. And it's still as dangerous now as it was back then.

 

[ultrarunner]

Coworker lost fingers to an old punch press when it unexpectedly punched.

I spent weeks on the same press and gives me chills.

It had a right and left hand paddle to depress at the same time to cycle once.

Sometimes the best way to duplicate antique auto parts is by using the same period correct tools and techniques.

Ive got 2 Brass T Speedsters with new metal…

Not sure how old my high leg metal lathe is… set up for overhead belt.