Adapter plate to adjust attachment L/R level

[ponytug]

I need to do a better job of crowning my dirt/gravel roads. What I need to be able to do is back drag with a 4N1 bucket or a box blade / land plane, where I could have one side lower than the other.

Anyone have any pointers to existing box blades or planes with the ability to change level on the blade that I could put a PT adapter plate on?

Alternatively, anyone have a brilliant way to put a female PT quick attach adapter plate to a male quick attach plate in a way that you could readily change the left / right level? I would be ok with a plate with a number of pin holes to get varying angles.

And yes, I did ask PT to consider making one and they passed.

My best thought so far is to put a 3 point hitch on a PT QA plate and go from there, but that seems...long and mechanically complicated, and I am concerned that putting force even farther out on the PT will increase the strain on the loader arms, and decrease the down force at the blade.

I would love to hear your thoughts and ideas.

All the best,

Peter

 

[aczlan]

Weld a PT QA to a Tilt tach and use a skidsteer bucket: Bradco Tilt Tach for Skid Steer Attachments | Skid Steer Solutions?

Aaron Z

 

[agjones]

Hi Peter and Aaron

I use the sstilt plates in a few applications and found in an experiment that the oscillation feature of the power trac largely negates the effects of the tilt. The further you get to the extent of tilt /oscillation the closer you are to breaking traction also.

I'm able to affect crowning tilt on the pt only through the use of the 3pt on the back of my (super modified) 425.

 

[MossRoad]

That makes sense about the oscillation cancelling out the tilt.

Maybe a grader blade with gauge wheels would work better?

Those long armed ones with the blade mounted half way between the hitch and the wheels.

 

[ncstriper]

I've reduced the air pressure on one side of my pt tires while overinflating ghe other side to achieve angle crowning.

 

[stray]

I've tried that too. ncstriper worked kinda for me. Only need to do the front tires. Back makes no difference.

 

[m5040]

Brilliant idea with the tire pressure. If you wanted to go through the trouble, buy a spare tire of a slightly larger size and mount on the high side. The bolt pattern looks like standard garden tractor wheels which you can find cheap.

 

[agjones]

Yeah, I tried the tires too. Underwhelmed. Tracking becomes a problem. Mine have sealer in them now so not an option.

 

[m5040]

I have an antique 6' blade that came off a small road grader and someone converted it to 3pt hitch. It has a wheel adjuster to tilt the blade. You can research antique road graders and copy a design over to a PT mount.

Think about how the mower decks swivel side to side with a center mounting bolt and just put a large threaded rod or ratchet chain binder to control it.

 

[MossRoad]

This probably isn't too helpful, but look at this creation by Waldon52 here on TBN. Outstanding. :thumbsup:

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/312151-mini-road-grader-garden-tractor.html

To crown you need something that angles on two planes:
left-right and roll
You may also want to angle it in the pitch plane to make it more or less aggressive.

As we've mentioned, the oscillation of the PT between the front and back half will counter any roll you try to put into something on the front section FEL arms. It'll try and lift one of the front tires. So I'm wondering if something on the back would just try and lift the back as well?

That's why I was thinking of dragging a unit that is free to float on the front, and has gauge wheels on the back, and is heavy enough to let the blade dig in on the gauge wheels' plane, instead of the PT's wheel plane.

But then you have to wonder if the PT has enough grunt to pull a blade that's engaging dirt. My little 425 doesn't. But the newer units have larger wheel motors, and the larger models are, of course, stronger.

Just some thoughts.