Adapting JIC from 3/8” to 1/2”?

[Todd727]

This is Parker's fittings catalog. It is a great resource to help you when looking for fittings and converting from one size/type to another.

https://www.parker.com/content/dam/Parker-com/Literature/Tube-Fittings-Division/4300_Catalog_Cover.pdf

 

[aircommuter]

I have bought lots of products from Surplus Center and like them a lot.
But when I wanted to convert all the hoses on my MF400 crawler restoration to jic, from BSPP to jic I used Hose and Fittings.com. Best selection I have found.
I did buy the hoses from Surplus Center however but they didn’t have those adapters. Look at the photos on “anther restoration “ you will see the adapters.

 

[hayden]

Its more like bending conduit since you cannot really undo the bend, and your trying to line everything up. For 1/2" I use carbon steel or stainless seamless tubing.

https://www.zoro.com/zoro-select-tubing-seamless-12-in-6-ft-1010-carbon-max-pressure-3283-psi-at-72-degrees-f-3ccj6/i/G1603987/

https://www.zoro.com/zoro-select-12-od-x-6-ft-seamless-316-stainless-steel-tubing-zusa-htm-106/i/G0657036/

To bend it I use a Parker #8 sliding block. For larger tubing I use geared Ridgid benders.
To flare it I use a Ridgid 377 that has an eccentric head so it is not trying to flare all the tube at once.
To cut it I use a Ridgid 15-SI cutter with the correct wheel for stainless
To deburr it I use a Ridgid 223S.


To put a fitting on the end you have two main options:
Flareless.
These are bite to tube fittings, you cut the tube, deburr it, then clean the outside, slide it on then tighten the collar. The advantage of this is that you can get lots of different types of threads, the downside is they are expensive and bulky.

Flared fitting.
Your mostly limited to female JIC 37 degree, or SAE 45 degree of the size that your tube is. They are cheap, and compact. Downside is that the require special tools to make, and you are limited on thread options.

Also I suck at it. Buy 3x the tubing I need and cuss at it the whole time as I fill the scrap bin. Having the right tools does not mean your an expert.

Would those flareless fittings accommodate some variability in the pipe lengths? With hard lines, that's what I'd be most worried about since they all need to start and end in the same plane. I suspect that would be really difficult to get right when flaring the ends.

 

[Sportsman762]

Would those flareless fittings accommodate some variability in the pipe lengths? With hard lines, that's what I'd be most worried about since they all need to start and end in the same plane. I suspect that would be really difficult to get right when flaring the ends.

They provide a little variability, but not much.

 

[aircommuter]

I have never made rigid hydraulic lines, but imagine it requires a certain amount of specialized equipment and materials to deal with the high pressure. What sort of pipe? How do you bend it? How do you put a JIC flare on the end? What sort of nuts and collars or other stuff is needed? I don't think it's like working with copper pipe, or even brake line pipes. Maybe someone has experience fabbing hard hydraulic lines and can speak to this?

I have benders up to 3/4 OD for the tubing and the flaring tool to make up all my steel tubes. You select the wall thickness of the tubing to match your pressure requirements. Sometimes I have to weld the fitting to the tubing. I am making some 3/4” stainless tubes for my Massey Ferguson project right now.

 

[leonz]

This project has turned out to be more complicated than expected and I’m barely halfway through.

I simply want to connect a control valve to the quick couplers. The control valve has six 3/8” male JIC ports with 9/16”-18 thread. The six quick couplers have 3/4”-16 male JIC threads.

So simply put, I want to connect a steel line to a device with a 3/8” male JIC on one end and a device with a 1/2” male JIC on the other.

It seems like a simple process but I can’t find a way with either 1/2” or 3/8” steel lines. Is this possible.

With that mounting you will need female JIC hose ends with long and short elbows in order to mount them on that block mounting to have room for clearance to tighten them and replace them when needed if they are routed to one side.

 

[Wagtail]

Following.

 

[Spanner]

Following.

Snap !

 

[threepiece]

I have a problem with making things work were they should not. Sometimes it costs me way more money than if I did it with proper stuff.

I’ll bet you learn from doing things this way.

Some 30 years ago I decided to build a bumper for my Jeep J20. Like most things I do this bumper was to be different. Rather than creating a weldment like most bumpers I wanted to form it. There was a particular portion that gave me loads of trouble. Two engineers told me the steel must be heated or it won’t happen, I refused to believe it. The first tool was ridiculously small at about 30 pounds. I was successful on my fourth tool that weighed nearly 200 pounds.

The bumper took nearly four years to complete at a cost of about $7,000. Most of what I know about machine work was learned while making that bumper.

 

[threepiece]

Other option…… machine shop

Unfortunately, my shop is 200 miles away. I will drive home before I pay someone to do work for me. I did however bring my welder to the sight.