Added tie down - flush to deck

[Oasis]

I saw this idea somewhere and used it.

My 18' trailer offered plenty of tie points until I put on the stakesides. I really wanted to keep the interior of my trailer smooth for handling brush, sweeping it out... so:

I installed pipe pockets and tie down chain through the trailer deck, here's how I did it:

Pulled some of the wood deck from the left and right sides. Located the stout trailer framing under the trailer along each side. Then welded about 6" of thick walled tubing to the frame about every 4 feet (5 along each side). I positioned the top of the tubing about 1/4" below the deck surface level.

I bored the deck holes to receive the tubing. I routed the hole rims with a round-over bit_ making it easy to get the washer in and out.

Welded chain to each washer. Dropped chain through pipe, added keeper bolt and lock nuts to the chain end. Presto... instant tie downs (well_ it took me all day, but I also powdercoated parts and painted the frame welds...)

I installed 5 tie point along each side.

Materials (for each tie point):
6" of 2.5" od round pipe 1/4" wall
1' of high test chain
1 large 2.5" od washer
1 high test keeper bolt and lock nuts

These measurements are approx. from memory.

To use the tie points (obviously): Finger into washer hole, pull up, hook binder to chain...

The weakest point in this system? Not the pipe/welds_ It'd have to be the chain or keeper bolt because they have about the same rating. Anyway_ I use 8 tie downs: 2 @ loader, 4 @ tractor (mid-ship), 2 @ tractor tail. This leaves me with 2 free tie points for a brush hog or other payload.

Happy trails,
Dave

 

[ultrarunner]

Interesting design... thanks for posting!

 

[radman1]

Not to be negative, but your tie down points are ok if you place the load near the same spot each time. I like your idea, but I would need 6-8 different chains. I am always carrying a different attachment, or machine (CUT, mower, toolcat, skid steer) and need to vary my tie down points. I have side boards that are 2x8" and don't use most of my stake pockets. When I need to tie a load, I raise the side board, run my chain under and chain to the open stake pocket. I even put handles on the front and back of the outside of the side board to easily raise the side boards to slip the chain under.

Also, does your design push on the wood as the chain comes through the floor?

 

[Diamondpilot]

Not to be negative, but your tie down points are ok if you place the load near the same spot each time. I like your idea, but I would need 6-8 different chains. I am always carrying a different attachment, or machine (CUT, mower, toolcat, skid steer) and need to vary my tie down points.

He said he installed 5 down each side for a total of 10. They look like they are about 24" apart.

Chris

 

[radman1]

He said he installed 5 down each side for a total of 10. They look like they are about 24" apart.

Chris

Guess I can't read. My bad. I like it. I can't weld pipe the best. Could heavy walled square tubing be used instead?

 

[Oasis]

Ya, sometimes I fiddle with which tie to run where but I've always managed.

The square would work but I found plenty of weld surface for the round. I'd also need square holes and square washers to match (or my kids would make fun of putting a square peg in a round hole_ they've heard me use that line too much).

Another reason that I took a few deck boards off each side for this job_ better welding. I need all the help I can get.

Happy trails,
Dave

 

[wkpoor]

It seems both trailer mfgs and dealers don't get it. There can never be enough tie down points on a trailer. My last one has about 15 D-rings and I still run out of places. I've givin thought to the outer deck board being steel plate with chain key holes every foot all the way down on both sides. That would solve the qty issue along with sides getting in the way also.