Snowblower Adding hydraulic deflector on snowblower

[Tig]

I am in the process of installing hydraulic controls on my Buhler snow blower. The rotation was simple. The cylinder dropped on the bracket.
The deflector is another story. So now I am having second thoughts. My laneway is 600M that runs through a seasonal trailer park and then to the edge of the village. Strong winds and sections where it is close quarters will limit my options on where to blow snow. I figured that being able to throw it down or up via the hydraulic chute would really help.
Anyone have any thoughts or experience with the hydraulic deflector operation?

 

[zzvyb6]

First thought is to make the chute angle tied to the rotation angle. A simple z-rod is all it would take. Decide where you want the chute at angle 1 and at angle 2, then make a mechanism to get it done.

Second could be an electric actuator. Give it a voltage jolt and it moves to a new position.

I presume you are out of hydrualic circuits and that is why you are asking.

 

[Tig]

I have a circuit. I even have all the parts here. I bought the cylinder based on specs I found in an old Buhler manual. Even the smallest cylinder locally available is too big to just bolt on. Before I start cutting and welding my brand new snowblower I though I would see if anyone had any experience or thoughts on the usefullnes of this option.

 

[Ductape]

Usefulness?????? Absolutely !! I'm doing the same to my (front) blower. It uses a loader valve for up/down, and electric chute rotation....... leaving the second spool on the loader valve for my hydraulic deflection. I bought a 6inch throw cylinder at a local tractor dealer, and need to fab up some mounts for it and get it plumbed. I see a huge advantace to being able to control the distance from the seat..... SO GO FOR IT !!!

 

[Tig]

Ok, Ductape I guess that's all the push I need. After a couple days of indecision on how to do this I think finally I see the obvious way to fit the cylinder.
The cylinder is 6" longer than the bar it is replacing. I think I should grind the weld at the red line to remove the lower bracket. Then I will turn it around and weld it back on in the location shown in blue. By using the cylinder to hold the bracket when I tack it in place I should get this right. Now the question is, can my 90A wire welder handle this task.

 

[hwp]

The attached shows how my hydraulic operated deflector works. A very simple setup.

 

[hazmat]

Ok, Ductape I guess that's all the push I need. After a couple days of indecision on how to do this I think finally I see the obvious way to fit the cylinder.
The cylinder is 6" longer than the bar it is replacing. I think I should grind the weld at the red line to remove the lower bracket. Then I will turn it around and weld it back on in the location shown in blue. By using the cylinder to hold the bracket when I tack it in place I should get this right. Now the question is, can my 90A wire welder handle this task.

That will work. Be sure to measure extended vs. retracted lengths. Your welder should handle it. Bevel & make multiple passes if required.

 

[8561]

I would highly recommend the hydraulic deflector. I have one on my Meteor blower and use it all the time.

 

[herringchoker]

You will appreciate the hydraulic deflector, especially in tight quarters. I built mine from scratch.

 

[JerryK]

Might just be me, but I have been running snowblowers for many [many] moons, and never had to adjust my deflector. Now I am at the age, don't know if I could handle something else to be adjusting on while I'm running inches from my pole barn....

 

[Tig]

Nice setups HWP and Herringchoker.
Thanks for the feedback guys. I did the grinding this afternoon. No turning back now.

The original linkage has 5" of travel. Since I could not get a 5" cylinder, I chose a 6. I'd like to limit the travel to 5" to avoid problems. Can I limit the retract with an inch of PVC sleeved over the rod? I was thinking a short piece of 1 1/4" PVC inside a longer piece of 1 1/2" PVC. That should limit the retract while avoiding any pressure on the seal from the sleeve.
Here's a pic of things just hanging together. Ultimately the bottom bracket will be mounted an inch lower. The picture shows where I plan to have the chute when fully retracted (5") against the sleeve.

 

[skippy957]

This is my set-up. I install swivels on chute elevation to avoid twisting the hydraulic hoses.

 

[canoetrpr]

Hey that looks like a Princess Auto cylinder! Nice to see some local guys online.

I think you've inspired me to add a hydraulic deflector and rotator to my blower when I can afford to add the rear valves.

I'd be very interested in seeing how they hydraulic chute rotation works as well. Did your blower come with that?

 

[Tig]

Good idea with the swivels Skippy

Yes, Canoetrpr, that's PowerFist you see there. The guys in the PA hydraulics shop have been very good to me.
The rotation bracket was a $90 option. I put my own cylinder on.

 

[Ductape]

Looky there......you're halfway there already ! Aren't you glad you decided to dive in? Keep us posted with more pics as yo go.

 

[loulblades]

I have had my front snowblower for several years and do not recall a time when I had to stop and adjust the deflector.

I am however adding hydraulic chute rotation. A hyd. motor acquired on ebay will replace the crank handle.

 

[hazmat]

Nice setups HWP and Herringchoker.
Thanks for the feedback guys. I did the grinding this afternoon. No turning back now.

The original linkage has 5" of travel. Since I could not get a 5" cylinder, I chose a 6. I'd like to limit the travel to 5" to avoid problems. Can I limit the retract with an inch of PVC sleeved over the rod? I was thinking a short piece of 1 1/4" PVC inside a longer piece of 1 1/2" PVC. That should limit the retract while avoiding any pressure on the seal from the sleeve.
Here's a pic of things just hanging together. Ultimately the bottom bracket will be mounted an inch lower. The picture shows where I plan to have the chute when fully retracted (5") against the sleeve.

If you can move the deflector thru 6" of travel w/o damaging it, Don't bother to try to limit the travel on the cylinder.

The cylinder should bottom out before the deflector does, or you will be bending metal.

 

[herringchoker]

Like Hazmat says, if the deflector can move through the full 6" stroke without binding, I would leave it as-is. If there is binding, I would think about lengthening the strut on the deflector so you need 6" stroke instead of 5" to get full non-binding range of movement.

 

[rbargeron]

.....The original linkage has 5" of travel. Since I could not get a 5" cylinder, I chose a 6. I'd like to limit the travel to 5" to avoid problems. Can I limit the retract with an inch of PVC sleeved over the rod? I was thinking a short piece of 1 1/4" PVC inside a longer piece of 1 1/2" PVC. That should limit the retract while avoiding any pressure on the seal from the sleeve.......

PVC sleeves may work - very good idea to use a large enough one to get outside the seal. The PVC will act as a bumper - but may crush. Maybe the outside sleeve will need to be iron pipe. As others say, it's best if the cylinder stops against itself, not the deflector linkage. On my wood splitter, I use a pvc sleeve to limit travel when working 12" wood - the valve auto-centers when there is backpressure retracting. You can see the pvc sleeve bulge momentarily when it hits.

 

[Tig]

At full extension the cylinder will stop before any metal bends. When the cylinder is fully retracted the chute will pivot over backwards and the sides of the chute will uncouple from the guides. I just wanted a stop to prevent me from uncoupling it by mistake. I'm considering a small mod to extend the chute guides.
Long day at work today so I did not get a chance to work on the blower.