Hi all, after 2 weeks and 17 hours and only breaking one turn/tail light on a tree branch:ashamed:, I have moved the lights to the inside of the ROPS. I ordered 2 tuff light LEDs and plan on mounting them to the ROPS, using the bolt that holds the left side light on. I will use light angle iron with holes for the mounting (both on the left side, 1 rear, 1 forward facing). The lights I ordered have about 6 inch wires coming off of them and my question is this: can I just tap into the turn/tail light wiring to power the LEDs when the dash switch is on? If I can, do I need to add a resistor, and where to add it if so? I would prefer just tying into the current wiring rather than running new wiring for a quicker and cleaner install. TIA
Adding LED work lights
- Thread starter MoMower
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Blunderbore
Bronze Member
What is the amperage requirement of your LEDs?
As long as the light circuit is properly fused now, if the LEDs draw too much the fuse will pop before you do any damage.
As long as the light circuit is properly fused now, if the LEDs draw too much the fuse will pop before you do any damage.
Blunderbore
Bronze Member
27 watts each? That is less than 2.5 amps each. You should have no problem.
Watts to amps (A) conversion calculator
Watts to amps (A) conversion calculator
s219
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2011
- Messages
- 8,607
- Location
- Virginia USA
- Tractor
- Kubota L3200, Deere X380, Kubota RTV-X
Look for the work light circuit on the tractor and tap into that. Most tractors have one. Sometimes the wiring is run to one of the rear fenders.
Blunderbore
Bronze Member
As s219 suggested a separate circuit would be ideal... I know on my older MF there is a work light wire on the left fender.
Thank you both, I will look into the tractor having an available worklight circuit, I'm going to stop at the dealer and look at a GC1720, with the factory worklight and see how that is wired/switched, etc. I would prefer not to have to drill into the dash to add a switch (but I ordered a harness and a waterproof switch with the lights in case I need it). I seem to recall from another thread that there is a white wire available under the seat for power.
ETA: and thanks for the link that conversion site is handy for many uses.
ETA: and thanks for the link that conversion site is handy for many uses.
Kevin Krieger
Member
Your factory work light circuit is just to the left of your top link pivot bracket when looking at the rear of tractor. It is tied to a factory wire or loom. I found it but need to pull it out because it looks like it is only one wire. Maybe there is two, or else you have to run seperate ground. Let us know when you dig into it further.
Installed them yesterday, holy c@#p are they bright, no issue working at night now. After talking to the tech at the dealer, who said it would not be an issue, I jumped them directly into the tail light circuit, yellow hot, brown ground. Had to look at the wires after the factory connector to get the right wires, as the wires change color at that point. I did it this way for ease/cleanliness of installation.
Looked at the manual today, it shows an extra power line for auxiliary right where and how Kevin said (1 hot wire).
If I need to add a secondary switch later it will be a 5 minute job. I'll give a shot to uploading pics when I get a chance but will make no promises. I mounted them using a piece of 1x1x1/8" aluminum angle, using the bolt that holds the taillight on, as I did not want to drill any extra holes in the ROPS.
Looked at the manual today, it shows an extra power line for auxiliary right where and how Kevin said (1 hot wire).
If I need to add a secondary switch later it will be a 5 minute job. I'll give a shot to uploading pics when I get a chance but will make no promises. I mounted them using a piece of 1x1x1/8" aluminum angle, using the bolt that holds the taillight on, as I did not want to drill any extra holes in the ROPS.
Installed them yesterday, holy c@#p are they bright, no issue working at night now. After talking to the tech at the dealer, who said it would not be an issue, I jumped them directly into the tail light circuit, yellow hot, brown ground. Had to look at the wires after the factory connector to get the right wires, as the wires change color at that point. I did it this way for ease/cleanliness of installation.
Looked at the manual today, it shows an extra power line for auxiliary right where and how Kevin said (1 hot wire).
If I need to add a secondary switch later it will be a 5 minute job. I'll give a shot to uploading pics when I get a chance but will make no promises. I mounted them using a piece of 1x1x1/8" aluminum angle, using the bolt that holds the taillight on, as I did not want to drill any extra holes in the ROPS.
Looked at the manual today, it shows an extra power line for auxiliary right where and how Kevin said (1 hot wire).
If I need to add a secondary switch later it will be a 5 minute job. I'll give a shot to uploading pics when I get a chance but will make no promises. I mounted them using a piece of 1x1x1/8" aluminum angle, using the bolt that holds the taillight on, as I did not want to drill any extra holes in the ROPS.
streamin
Gold Member
what kind of lights were those? where did you buy them?
streamin
Gold Member
Thanks, looks like a good light. Did you get the square or round? I was wondering if I got the square and you mount them off the side if that will make a difference, like if the light beam is more like a rectangle or it is the same orientation either way?
Kevin Krieger
Member
A picture of the lights mounted would be great since I'm not wanting to drill either. Thanks
On my way to work now, will attempt pictures from tomorrow. I ordered the round lights, they are floods so no real definition to the pattern, I do not think round/square would make a difference.
ETA: I did drill when I moved the factory lights inboard, for the wire.
ETA: I did drill when I moved the factory lights inboard, for the wire.
Last edited:
Kevin Krieger
Member
Nice job. Thanks for the pic.
Thanks Kevin, Just a couple of thoughts for anyone interested. I put them on the right side, as the left side light was the one I had damaged when mowing. They are angled like that to allow the ROPS to fold, With the backhoe on the ROPS rests against the outriggers and does not hit the light, when I take the BH off to mow, i'm going to have to turn the rear light, or make a small metal brace to hold the ROPS away a bit. I mow and store the tractor with the ROPS down, for clearance as my yard is mostly flat, the rest of the time it is up. I'm a smaller guy, 5'11" @ 175#, so the factory lights on the inside are not in the way/obstructed, when I'm forward facing they are above my shoulders, when running the BH they are below my arms, it may be an issue for some.
ETA: I used a piece of aluminum angle on purpose, figuring if it did get caught on or impact something the aluminum would give before it bent or twisted the ROPS.
ETA: I used a piece of aluminum angle on purpose, figuring if it did get caught on or impact something the aluminum would give before it bent or twisted the ROPS.
piercedtiger
Silver Member
- Joined
- May 19, 2014
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- 237
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- Newark Valley, NY
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- 2011 Massey Ferguson GC2600 DL100
Thanks for the info! I've been thinking of doing all of the above! Previous owner took out the left rear light as well, and I've patched it back together for now. Did you order new lights from the dealer or some place else? I almost took the light out myself mowing around the goat fence, so I can see how it could happen. I'd like to flip them inside as well. Could you post pics on how you mounted yours?
The ROPS on my GC2600 doesn't fold, so that'll make things easier. I thought about doing a LED light bar along the top of the ROPS, but I like your setup for front and rear. I might do both! The side one could be aimed at different spots as needed. Do you have them tied to your headlight switch or separate switch?
