Adding on to (extending) pole building advice...

[jrcmlc]

Here is a picture of the end of my current shop. I was thinking of coming out of this side another 16-20ft, maintaining the roofline and front wall flushness, but making the back (away from camera) extend further back (wider). It's 36w 48l 10ft eave height now....was thinking of 64-68L and then making that new section as wide as possible while still maintaining the existing roof pitch. I think the roof is a 5/12 now (??) if so, my figures look like it could be around 7ft wider in that section and still have over a 7ft high eave in the back....

Looking for thoughts on A: Should I expect that the extension will match? The building is about 5 years old...the metal is all still available from Menards...

B: Should I even be considering making that new section wider and running the roofline down to 7.5ft tall, or should I build it the same exactly and just spec a lean-to off the back with a less-steep roofline so as to maximize the space and not end up with such a low roofline back there?

Any other thoughts on this that you might be useful to know, I would definitely appreciate.

Thanks in advance!

JC

 

[BHD]

my suggestion, is to add on the way you want, keep the front and the front slope in line, but keep the back wall at the current height, but move the peak to the center, of the new span, the front will look the same and most will not notice the roof line difference,
or
if your roof line desire is to be keep the same, the rear slop could be less if it is a tin sheeted roof.

(I really do not your plan or use, but if your roof line is to low you lose a lot of usable space besides junk storage and if you have a tractor one may not even clear then,

and you would all most need a custom rafter truss, as well some headers as the bottom of the truss is usually the ceiling line, so unless you lower the ceiling line in all the new area, the back will be a shed add on, the way I am seeing it,

My Two Cents

 

[jrcmlc]

The more I think about this, the more I think I'd be better served by just doing an exact extension, matching the existing building exactly, and then build a "lean-to" style add-on across the back at the same time, but NOT design that into the trusses, just do it the way it's always done except it'll be easier because the metal will not be on yet...

Also thought a "porch" on the side you see in the picture, when it's all done and extended, might be nice...not a full lean-to on the gable end, just a large covered porch area where the door would be, big enough for a couple of chairs and maybe a grill.....

Interested in any pics of other's setup like this and any addl. thoughts please.

Thanks,

JC

 

[imgone52]

Unless you need to walk along that back wall, I would follow your roof line all the way at the rear. If that area is storage or just for parking (nose in) you could even go out to 8 feet and keep your siding on even sheets. I ran my 5 - 12 pitch out in just this manner and I am glad for the added space. Good luck.

 

[dave1949]

Nice building!

If you extend the length of the existing building, you could consider a higher eave height and a wider (front to back) footprint for the new part. You end up with a "short" building next to a "tall" building. If you use the same roof slope on the new part and center the existing building on the end wall of the add on, I think it would look better than just stretching out the existing building. You will lose the existing proportions which make the building attractive.

It would be easier to handle the join between buildings too since you wouldn't have to worry about matching the height exactly on the roof lines.

 

[franklin2]

Nice building!

If you extend the length of the existing building, you could consider a higher eave height and a wider (front to back) footprint for the new part. You end up with a "short" building next to a "tall" building. If you use the same roof slope on the new part and center the existing building on the end wall of the add on, I think it would look better than just stretching out the existing building. You will lose the existing proportions which make the building attractive.

It would be easier to handle the join between buildings too since you wouldn't have to worry about matching the height exactly on the roof lines.

I agree with this also. Make the new part a little bit higher, or a little bit lower. The new roof sheetmetal is not going to match what you have now, it's faded from the weather. You could also make the new part have a little more depth to create a "bump-out" and this would also give a good spot to start the newer siding and like the previous poster said, making the new building a little different in size will make it more forgiving to line up to the old building, and break it up a little bit and give it a little style compared to a huge plain building.

 

[600rider]

As to the second part of your question, I am sure your existing building has faded somewhat since it was built. if you want it all the same then I would remove the siding on the side that is seen and use it on the side that is not seen and buy new for the side that is seen. Sounds like extra work but it'd look purdy!

 

[EddieWalker]

My thought would be to follow the walls and roofline that you have in place. You didn't say why you wanted to make it wider, so that might be a big factor in your decision. Making the new part wider and maintaining the roofline will require some sort of a heater or support for your trusses at the same height as the opposite wall. You might be able to have them custom made to handle the two different wall heights, which would solve everything, but I've never seen this and I don't know if it's even possible or affordable.

Does the end wall that you are planning to add on to have a truss on it or is the wall framed up to the peak of the roof? If it's a truss, you can remove the wall, if it's framed, the wall needs to stay, or a truss has to be installed there. Cutting out an opening in the wall and installing a header is what I'd do.

The will be some difference in the color of the metal, but in a few years, it should all blend together close enough not to be a big deal.

Eddie

 

[jrcmlc]

The end wall has a truss, so I assumed it could be mostly removed and have whatever portion I wanted clearspan moving into the new section.

The new portion would be for a combination of things, part dog kennel in the back section, extra storage for household stuff, shelving, and a place to put all the atvs and gear/parts for them. Having it at least partially open where that wall is now would be important.

JC

 

[ace10]

Are you planning on doing this yourself?
At what time of year?
Do you need to maintain weathertightness of the original footprint during the construction of the add-on?