boggen
Elite Member
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2011
- Messages
- 3,789
- Location
- Trivoli, IL
- Tractor
- SSTT (Sideways Snake Tain Tractor) and STB (sideways train box) tractor, dirt harvester
just catching your thread for the first time....
i might dig some of the french drain up, and install some "cleanout" tees. and at very min. add a "vent" or 2, with pipe sticking up into the air. so as the french drain pipe fills up with water, air has a way to vent out of the pipe.
clean out tees and vent, plus figure in some settling and movement of pipe over years to come. and above would help reduce problems long terms if something does come up.
p.s. make sure you paint PVC pipe. that is out in direct sun. pvc pipe normally does not come UV rated. and as a result will become brittle, and can be easily broken. painting the pipe will keep the sun rays off the plastic, and keep the pipe going long term.
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you might want to redig some of the trench, so gutters have some place to drain to. if you are not placing a gutter on back side of building. your french drain may get over ran, by amount of water coming from roof of shed, and the surrounding hills.
i would most likely go with some concrete block or treated 2x6's, 2x8's, 2x10's or like around shed that will be in contact with dirt. and most likely install a water membrane, you can buy epdm liner for flat top roofs fairly cheaply. and lay liner up against the block or treated lumber wall that will be touching dirt. and then back fill against it.
i am not a large fan of "tar" or paint on products for water proofing. at least not on walls that will be subject to "frost heave" and settling of the ground.
as far as concrete block or treated lumber around sides of building contacting dirt. and then transition to metal sheeting for sides. not a real big deal. many livestock sheds do this all the time. treated lumber on lower portion. so animal kicking and laying against walls does not tear out the metal. and then place metal sheeting higher up. were it will not get banged up against from the livestock.
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if you go with concrete block, it would be advised to place a footer down before building up the concrete block wall. Koiphen.com like TBN but for ponds. many folks there dry stack the concrete blocks, putting in rebar both horizontally and vertically. and then come back and fill every other cell or all cells with concrete. dry stacking blocks vs putting mortar between every block. *shrugs* i am not brick layer. and dry stacking and putting in rebar and then filling in cells sounds more easier for a newbie like myself.
i might dig some of the french drain up, and install some "cleanout" tees. and at very min. add a "vent" or 2, with pipe sticking up into the air. so as the french drain pipe fills up with water, air has a way to vent out of the pipe.
clean out tees and vent, plus figure in some settling and movement of pipe over years to come. and above would help reduce problems long terms if something does come up.
p.s. make sure you paint PVC pipe. that is out in direct sun. pvc pipe normally does not come UV rated. and as a result will become brittle, and can be easily broken. painting the pipe will keep the sun rays off the plastic, and keep the pipe going long term.
================
you might want to redig some of the trench, so gutters have some place to drain to. if you are not placing a gutter on back side of building. your french drain may get over ran, by amount of water coming from roof of shed, and the surrounding hills.
i would most likely go with some concrete block or treated 2x6's, 2x8's, 2x10's or like around shed that will be in contact with dirt. and most likely install a water membrane, you can buy epdm liner for flat top roofs fairly cheaply. and lay liner up against the block or treated lumber wall that will be touching dirt. and then back fill against it.
i am not a large fan of "tar" or paint on products for water proofing. at least not on walls that will be subject to "frost heave" and settling of the ground.
as far as concrete block or treated lumber around sides of building contacting dirt. and then transition to metal sheeting for sides. not a real big deal. many livestock sheds do this all the time. treated lumber on lower portion. so animal kicking and laying against walls does not tear out the metal. and then place metal sheeting higher up. were it will not get banged up against from the livestock.
==============
if you go with concrete block, it would be advised to place a footer down before building up the concrete block wall. Koiphen.com like TBN but for ponds. many folks there dry stack the concrete blocks, putting in rebar both horizontally and vertically. and then come back and fill every other cell or all cells with concrete. dry stacking blocks vs putting mortar between every block. *shrugs* i am not brick layer. and dry stacking and putting in rebar and then filling in cells sounds more easier for a newbie like myself.