Adding quick attach plate to Bucket -HELP!

gemini5362 · Dec 13, 2008

If you guys dont mind I am going to hijack your thread for a post rather than start a new thread and it sorta fits in with the subject matter.

I have a montana with a cab. I have noticed with the cab that I cant see the outside of my quick attach mount plate mounted to my tractor. This makes it a bit difficult to line up the attach plate with the bucket since there is almost now extra space for that to fit correctly. I usually wind up having one side against the edge of the bucket mounting bracket and cant get close enough to line it up. I dealt with this for the last three years with just minor annoyance. The other day I was putting my bucket back on and had this problem again. When I got the bucket on I pulled up to my work shop and put a piece of tape on the top of the bucket marking where the Tractor attaching plate fit on the bucket. ( The plate has two arms one on each side and they are about 5 inches wide, it is made to fit skid loader quick attach implements.) I then pulled the bucket back off took a handy can of silver spray paint and painted the area where the attach plate will sit. Now when I go to hook up to the bucked I can see exactly where the arms have to be. I will admit that I am somewhat challenged at some things but if anyone else has the same problem this might help you

Hooked_on_HP · Dec 13, 2008

BX24, You might want to find out if your bucket is made from AR steel. I am sure they are not mild steel. AR is expensive and hard to find in small pieces.
Bill

castlerockubota · Dec 14, 2008

After doing mine w/ a plasma cutter and just cutting the welds, next time I would cut through the bucket , leaving two rectangular holes in the bucket where the original mounts were. This would also give more surface area to weld the plate on.
Alan

bandaidmd · Jul 7, 2013

castlerockubota said:
After doing mine w/ a plasma cutter and just cutting the welds, next time I would cut through the bucket , leaving two rectangular holes in the bucket where the original mounts were. This would also give more surface area to weld the plate on.
Alan

I guess I'm reserecting a old thread but its new to me so here goes.

I started on mine today and I'm almost ready to throw in the towel and add windows where the brackets are.
Just how deep are those filletts? I cut out the plug welds with a 1 3/8 hole saw.

muddstopper · Jul 21, 2013

Yea, a pretty old thread, but anyways.
I have used my plasma cutter many times to cut out old welds with good success. With the cutting tip laid back and off the metal, i will start the arc and move it into the metal. With the amps turned all the way up and moving pretty fast, you can blow the weld out of the seam without blowing thru the base metal. Takes a little grinding to clean it up and you might have a few pock marks or gouges here and there, but beats the heck out of zip wheels and grinders if your working with thicker metal.

bandaidmd · Jul 21, 2013

I went in as deep as I could with zip wheels (6" was as large as I found locally) the gear case on the grinder and the pin bosses really limit the cutting depth but it still was not deep enough. I ended up using the torch to finish the job. I have since located 7" cutoff discs and a fresh one may have had the reach needed .
I had hoped to reuse my intact bracket but the extrication process rendered it more damaged than I hoped for so I cut it at the bend and welded it to a piece of sq tube.