Adding rear hydrolics

/ Adding rear hydrolics #1  

3rdgenorange

Bronze Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2006
Messages
54
Location
Ohio
Tractor
B2630
Thinking about getting a log splitter due to installing a OWB. Looking at TSC and they have 4 splitters. 22,28,35 and a 3 point model. I have a B2630 with no rear hydrolics. Has anyone 1. added rear hoses to there tractor? How much does this cost? 2. Has anyone use a 3 point splitter? What are the plus/minuses?
 
/ Adding rear hydrolics #2  
Does your tractor have a loader? does it have a power beyond circuit? if it does, a loop for the splitter is very easy, basically involves two lengths of hose with fittings on each end. because there is a valve with on the splitter with an open channel, as long as the splitter is mounted on the tractor and connected, you can leave the extension to the splitter hook up, connected.

Once you disconnect the splitter valve though you will have to disconnect your extension hoses and reconnect the power beyond circuit at the hydraulic block, or complete the loop at the back of the tractor, with a short piece of hose.
 
/ Adding rear hydrolics
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Tractor does not have a loader and I do not think I have a power beyond circuit.
 
/ Adding rear hydrolics #4  
I would suggest a pto pump if you dont mind the extra expense. The tractor pump is pretty slow compared to some of the pto pumps you can get. A fast splitter is a thing of beauty. Plus you dont risk contaminating your tractor fluid. Surplus center seems to have decent buys on pumps but you may be able to find better, maybe even find one used or on ebay. I've run mine off a pto pump and I've also run it off a 25gpm wheel loader pump.

I dont know your pto hp off hand but just to give an idea of what gpm pump you could run, a 15 gpm pump running at 95% efficiency would need right around 20hp at 2000 psi. Give or take. I hope this helps with your decision.
 
/ Adding rear hydrolics #5  
You'll want to tap into one of the hydraulic blocks....... not sure if your tractor has one or two. It may mean a trip to your dealer (or an internet purchase) to get one. From there its pretty simple...... hook a pair of hoses up to the hydraulic block and run them to the rear of the tractor. I did this to power my backhoe..... same concept. When there is no splitter (or anything else) in line, the two hoses are coupled together to complete the loop. There is LOTS of reading on this site that will explain it.... just use the search function with key words like 'power beyond' , 'backhoe hydraulics', 'rear remotes', hydraulic circuit', etc. Its definitely something a do-it-yourselfer can do...... i'd estimate between a hundred and two hundred dollars for the required parts.

That being said, the self powered vs. tractor powered splitters are much like the Ford/Chevy , or Kubota/JD debate. You will need to figure out which way is best for you. Certainly tractor powered splitters can be cheaper..... but are they in the long run? Put the hours on an expensive tractor engine, or a $200 easily replaced small engine? You'll have to decide which is right for you. I frequently need my tractor to perform other chores when I'm splitting (like lifting chunks of wood)...... so a self contained splitter was right for me.
 
/ Adding rear hydrolics #6  
and to help with comparing the 3 pt to the powered splitters. I dont know your pump output but remember that the powered versions have a 2 stage pump. It will move kinda fast until it gets to about 600 psi. It then kicks in the second stage of the pump and will move slow. If your splitting alot of knotty wood the 3 pt will probably work faster than alot of the self powered jobbers. A disadvantage is the hours you'll put on the machine and the tractor has to go where the splitter does but if thats not a concern then no biggie.
 

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