Adding two spool valve to Kubota L3200

[MtnViewRanch]

Brian,
I just went out and compared my tractor to your picture. I do not have a hose in the background as your picture does. I have the three attached to the front of the block. The other connections are all hard piped.

Can you help clarify?

Thanks

You should only have 3 hoses (as you do) at this time. The hose on the right that is in the back ground is the power beyond hose going from the top 90* power beyond fitting (non quick disconnect) on the loader valve back to the aux valves on that tractor. Currently your power beyond hose from the loader valve should be going down to your top left fitting on your hydraulic block labeled power beyond hose from spool valve in the picture.

The top left port of the hydraulic block is the power beyond return line port from the last exposed valve that you have. Currently that is your loader valve. Later on it will be your aux valve-s PBY return line connection point.

Follow your current hose from the hydraulic block top left port and see where it goes, it should end up at the PBY port on your loader valve.

This should be all the info you need to plumb any additional valves that want to add to your hydraulic system.

Good luck.

 

[Appalachia]

Thanks Brian! I will take another look at it tomorrow.

 

[Appalachia]

Brian, on the tractor in the picture... are the spool valves mounted on the fender or perhaps to the right of the seat? If so this makes MUCH more sense.

I知 planning on putting mine to the right of the loader joystick, so I have trying to make the picture make sense in that regard.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Brian, on the tractor in the picture... are the spool valves mounted on the fender or perhaps to the right of the seat? If so this makes MUCH more sense.

I知 planning on putting mine to the right of the loader joystick, so I have trying to make the picture make sense in that regard.

I have no idea where the valves were in that picture, I just found it on the internet years ago on one of the tractor forums, probably here on TBN. Most 3rd party valves are installed off of the ROPS above the fender or down between the seat and the fender.

 

[Appalachia]

10-4. Thanks Brian.

 

[Appalachia]

Also, the total flow for my tractor is 10.5 gpm. 4 is dedicated to steering, and the other 6.5 is for other things.

8gpm valves is what I want correct?

Can anyone comment on this?

 

[lennyzx11]

Yes. That is fine. You want the valve to flow AT LEAST the amount of maximum flow rated.
This keeps a restriction from happening which causes heat build up in the fluid.

You want AS CLOSE as possible to have the valve capacity to the rated capacity of the system for the control.

Here’s why. (And no this isn’t accurate numbers. Just a for instance)

A system flows 8 gpm.
A valve that is rated 10 gpm open all the way flows 5gpm when opened half way.
Got it? Easy enough.
So same system. 8gpm.
Stick a big honking 30 gpm rated valve in there instead of a smaller one. Bigger is always better, Right?
Not in this case.
Since that valve will flow in theory 30 gpm, opening it half way would allow it to flow 15gpm.
Opening only 1/4 of the way flows 7.5gpm.
So in effect your valve only allows to “feather” during the first 1/4 of handle travel. So now it’s super twitchy and sensitive to the slightest movement by your big ol clumsy hand(or foot).
This same effect relates to dictating cylinder sizes.
If you have a TnT from Brian or other companies, a flow control has to be installed because the system and valves can fill that small cylinder bore a lot faster than you can adjust your big ol paw pulling on the lever.

Whew! Getting longer winded every year I guess...

 

[Appalachia]

Great explanation. Thanks Lenny!

This site is a wonderful resource.

 

[RNeumann]

Can anyone comment on this?

I’m not worried about the grapple but I’d check the specs on the post driver. A lot of the ratings you see aren’t “continuous flow” ratings. And even if they were I’d want a good margin to keep the heat down- especially if the valve size and cost was negligible

 

[Appalachia]

I知 not worried about the grapple but I壇 check the specs on the post driver. A lot of the ratings you see aren稚 田ontinuous flow ratings. And even if they were I壇 want a good margin to keep the heat down- especially if the valve size and cost was negligible

Specs say only 3-4 gpm are needed for the driver.
The cylinder just lifts the driver head, and the weight of the driver head and the downforce of the springs impart all the force.