Adding weight to a Tractor/traction question?

Cormac · Mar 4, 2006

I have a 2wd Ford 6600 with a front end loader for 6 months now. First tractor for me. I feel that the rear tires spin too easily. For example, sometimes I try to push over a 3" tree and the rear tires will simply dig down and spin. BTW, the soil is somewhat sandy and dry and the tread is 50% (guess). Other times, something as simple as cleaning up patches of decomposing, wet hay the tire will spin very easily. Most of the time I have no implement on the back so not added weight there. So my questions are: Is this why you add fluid to the rear tires or would that make the tires dig down even faster? I am thinking of getting a 700# box blade and keeping it there for more rear weight. Or is fluid in the tires the best answer, while the addition of the box blade will only makes it better again? I have read a lot of threads on adding weight, but am not sure if my application is the exact reason to do it. Thanks everyone for the continued education.

kljunior · Mar 4, 2006

Fill the tires! You won't believe the difference in traction. I would consider it a crime not to have them filled if you have a loader on a 2wd.

kljunior · Mar 4, 2006

You have the 18.4-30 ag tires right? If so, your looking at about 90 gallons per tire by filling 75% (to the valve stem at 12:00). Your in texas so Calcium is not required for freeze protection?? If thats the case then just throw a couple gallons of auto antifreeze in the mix in each tire for corrosion protection and you'll have a solid 750 lbs per tire of ballast. That will make the difference you are looking for. For extra heavy loader work, you can always add a weight box or blade on the rear too. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Marlowe · Mar 4, 2006

A front end loader is a great, useful tool, but the single biggest killer of traction on the rear tires. Fluid in the rear tires is the cheapest weight you can add and it is absolutely out of your way for adding other attachments. The sooner the better.

Tom

TMcD_in_MI · Mar 4, 2006

( Is this why you add fluid to the rear tires or would that make the tires dig down even faster?

Or is fluid in the tires the best answer, while the addition of the box blade will only makes it better again? )

To specifically answer your questions:

Yes, that is exactly why you add fluid to the tires. More weight = more traction.

Yes, you said it exactly right.

Tom

SPYDERLK · Mar 4, 2006

If you want to lower the tractor center of gravity for slope stabiliy and add weight, then a good compromise would be a 1/2 fill - - or maybe up to 60%. This has an added benefit of easily allowing you to change the pressure above the fluid to vary your ground contact area.
Larry

Ryan03 · Mar 4, 2006

I just purchased a farmtrac 270 2 weeks ago with frontend loader and have also considered adding rear weight by filling tires , this is my first tractor as well so any advice on what to fill them with would be greatly appreciated. I am familiar with methanol and calcium which are the most commonly used in this part of the country (northeast Ohio), I not only am hoping to gain traction , but stability on slopes as well. I can see some pros and cons with each, calcium being corrosive, and methanol quickly leaking out through a puncture. this tractor will be used to install 1.5 acre lawn on rough graded gently sloping lot, summer mulching, fall and winter firewood and clearing my driveway. Tractor is fourwheel drive with R4 industrial tires. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

SPYDERLK · Mar 4, 2006

Calcium - CaCl - is the heaviest I know of. By my experimentation the addition of 5#/GH2O (tapwater) will give a solution weighing 10.6#/G. 6# gives 11# solution and 7# gives an 11.4. However, the 11.4 solution will precipitate at 0F. You can make a 12# solution with distilled H2O before it starts to precipitate at 0F. Too much trouble for too little gain. I would recommend the 11# if you go with calcium. I understand you can make the solution less corrosive by making it alkaline by adding lime and adding a "trace" of sodium chromate - Na2CrO4. I havnt done this little trick. If you find out what a trace is pls let me know.
Larry

rambler · Mar 5, 2006

Yes exactly - you want your rear tires filled 75% each with fluid - for safety in additon to traction. Add an implement on the 3pt for even more stability.

Calcium cloride is the best - non-toxic, heavier than water, doesn't freeze. Rim Guard is also good, heavy, non toxic, non corosive if you are not good at maintenence. Antifreeze & washer fluid is lighter than water, very spendy (for a person in MN who needs 50/50 mix), toxic, and my tire service people do _not_ like it mixed with their good CC fluid.....

Exactly what you want, for the reasons you want. You won't believe the difference. Do it for safety as well.

--->Paul

kljunior · Mar 5, 2006

( Yes exactly - you want your rear tires filled 75% each with fluid - for safety in additon to traction. Add an implement on the 3pt for even more stability.

Calcium cloride is the best - non-toxic, heavier than water, doesn't freeze. Rim Guard is also good, heavy, non toxic, non corosive if you are not good at maintenence. Antifreeze & washer fluid is lighter than water, very spendy (for a person in MN who needs 50/50 mix), toxic, and my tire service people do _not_ like it mixed with their good CC fluid.....

Exactly what you want, for the reasons you want. You won't believe the difference. Do it for safety as well.

--->Paul )

antifreeze (ethylene glycol) is heavier than water.