Additional Tractor Work Light Ideas

   / Additional Tractor Work Light Ideas #22  
I have found that guns are not effective towards hippies. Just throw some deodorant at them, and if that dosen't work, try a chainsaw:)
 
   / Additional Tractor Work Light Ideas #23  
I mounted 2 lights forward up high nad 1 rear low on my ROPS. Ddint go with LED. Purcased auxillary driving lights at auto parts store. Just make sure you dont over load your alternator. They throw light out quite aways forward. I have the rear facing light lower mainley for plowing snow with a rear blade.
Depending on the use you can mount the rear light higher.
 
   / Additional Tractor Work Light Ideas #24  
Holy cow quadpa1911. Going to war? You're right near me (Applegate Valley), and I sure wouldn't want to meet you in the woods! I oftentimes carry a 357 on 320 acres, but....

I, too, put regular auxillary driving lights from an auto parts store on underside of my ROPS. Attached w/ large hose clamps. They work well, but are quite a load on the alternator when 2 forward-facing and 2 rear-facing + regular headlights are on. Any recommendations on LED lights? The OP's 90 deg beam LED's look nice.

Marcus
 
   / Additional Tractor Work Light Ideas #25  
NHmitch said:
I have been tired of working the dark behind the my tractor at night in the woods. I use to have a utility light mounted on the tractor b, but I could not really aim where I needed it, si I purchased a spotlight that was meant for an ATV, but it worked great. Its a Blazer ATV spotlight, and it fit perfectly on my fender handle. I was able to quickly wire it under the seat where the wire is connected to the fender lights. The spotlight does not rattle, or move when I drive, and I can aim it anywhere I need it, and it is very bright. All this for $25. Not a bad purchase. Excuse the clutter behind the tractor..The lights works great. The main thing, what ever you do, do not make holes in your ROPS, or modify them. They could fail if you need them. Just use large u bolts. This spotlight works great at night here in pitch black New Hampshire.

What brand is it, and where is it available, please?
T
 
   / Additional Tractor Work Light Ideas #28  
I made these last yr. very inexpensive and easy to mount and aim where you want them to go. mount inside the rops or on the outside. david
 

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   / Additional Tractor Work Light Ideas #29  
I made these last yr. very inexpensive and easy to mount and aim where you want them to go. mount inside the rops or on the outside. david

When I put them togather, they where a trial but they do work well. the lights have independant switches made into them, much like the flash light switch and are also water proof. 55w bulbs. I prefered the independant light switches do to: i dodn't need them all on all the time. And by the way, there is no drilling on the rops in anyway.
Hope this helps
david
 
   / Additional Tractor Work Light Ideas #30  
I used what ever lights come on a Case 580 backhoe. These things are great.

Do you have any issues with vibration on the front canopy lights? I have thought of doing that on our L3830, but I was worried that they would just vibrate all over the place.

Thanks

Aaron Z
 
   / Additional Tractor Work Light Ideas #31  
My light brackets and lights don't have any vibrations, and are rock solid.
here are the lights bar codes and are $20 bucks, ordered them from napa, auto parts. they are the armored type
 

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   / Additional Tractor Work Light Ideas #32  
The old stock rear light was OK but it didn't shed enough behind the tractor in winter months while blading snow. I also wanted to get some rear lights that I could put a flasher on, our road joins a secondary highway and the tractor wasn't well lit up when approaching it from the rear.

I did install a flasher for the LED tail lights, the two small LED fog lamps draw little current and do a surprisingly good job, although not much past 20-25 feet behind the tractor.
 

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   / Additional Tractor Work Light Ideas #33  
some things to think about....

when doing loader work at night, i like good solid bright light. right were the edege of bucket will be, and little more in front of the bucket. that way i can see a couple feet in front of the bucket fairly good, and what i just got myself in trouble with.

the problem with lights point so low to the ground for loader work. is you barely have any light further in front of you.

say you load a bail of hay, or you got your bucket of dirt, and you have bucket curled back and setting low to the ground, but ya need to raise it up some so you do not hit anything over a few bumps. and BAM all your lights get block.

with above, i have been really tempted to add 4 lights total to top of ford 555c. (it is a cabbed tractor) so i could have 2 lights pointing down right near edge of bucket, and then flip another switch, so i could turn on 2 more lights that set higher and point father forward. so i can actually see 50 to 100 feet in front of me.

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rear working lights....

3pt hitch. *gggrrr* lets leave it at a gggrrr. having a single focused light i can shine down on the arms and top link. for both backing up to attach to something or to unhook. and i want the light low near the ground, so when i bend over, my fat rear, does not block the light. and darken everything.

for backhoe work, i do like 2 upper rear lights, one on each side, backhoe can only reach so far. so having them high and pointed for most part downwards, does a pretty good job for bright light in small area.

if i have something else on back of tractor, bush hog, trailer, or something else, most upper rear work lights i have seen, air fairly easy to just grab a hold of and twist the lights to shin further back away from tractor. with descent results.

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you need to be careful on power consumption, if you have a basic tractor with or without ROPS (roll over protection system), your altenator may be a lower sized model version. vs FOPS (falling over protection system) or cabbed tractors FOPS and CAB tractors bought new, most likely have the larger version of the alternator. and already have extra lights.

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generic DIP switches for 12V 15amp. can be had and multi hardware stores, for the cheap plastic fenders and dash boards. you might want to see if you can find a large "THIN" washer. to help hold the dip switches in place, so there is less chance of snagging the switch and causing plastic to crack.

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as much as it can be nice to have space in fuse box or pre-wired harness already to go for you. sometimes prefer to have lights wired right to the battery, with a 15 amp inline fuse. so i do not need to get in tractor and turn the key to accessories on. granted, going this way, may mean you accidentally hit a switch and run the battery dead. but there been times just having a quick flip of a switch and having switch say on rear of tractor near 3pt hitch has been a lot easier.

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i would stay away from mounting lights directly onto plastic. and would prefer some sort of clamp, or pipe clamp, or like to firmly hold a light to piece of metal. plastic and vibrations = a washer or a nut just slowly eating away the plastic to the point plastic cracks or what ever it was just fell off.

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no large help on watts of lights. or type of lights. when looking for replacement lights for ford 555c, i just went to a couple local stores, and looked at boxes of what they had, and various boxes showed different light patterns from focused long range light, to a wide spread out light. and distance and area each light covered. and then took a few measurements for mounting on tractor, and were i wanted the light to be.

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placement of lights, higher the better. but as everyone else has noted. do not stick them clear out away from the tractor. i try my best to avoid trees but dang nab it of all. i still have to go under low limbs that brush the to top of the cab. or side of the cab. no real way around it. having them moved in towards center of tractor a little bit helps to protect them.

you can get some lights that have wire grills over them. that may protect the light cover from a tree limb smacking the light directly. but if the light got snagged up on a tree limb, most likely you would rip the entire light right off your tractor. most lights i have seen are pretty cheaply made plastic, and the little pieces of metal brackets, that allow you to adjust were the light points. are not all that strong. so if something going to give. it will most likely be the light hanging up in the tree after it was tore off your tractor.
 

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