adjusting brush hog

Mosey · May 30, 2002

I also left the original link pins on the top and added some at the bottom. The reason is because if I took the top ones out and moved them to the bottom, then I needed to buy two 7/8" grade 5 bolts, lock washers, and nuts to use in place of them and it turned out to cost about 75 cents more each than a link pin with lock washer and nut. Plus, this way the bush hog can still be used on a larger tractor if need be.

Freds · May 30, 2002

Hmmm, without me breaking out the tool box (yet), aren't the holes the same size? Couldn't you replace the top pins with the bolts you take out of the bottom holes if you don't plan on using the BH with a larger tractor?
I guess I'll find out soon enough, but I hate to start the changeover with this thought only to have to drop my tools and head for a tractor store to buy two pins.

Fred

TresCrows · May 30, 2002

Fred, I just bought another set of pins and drilled the bolt holes up to that size--yes, I use the lower pins and it will solve almost all of your problems. The upper pins were left in place--just cuz. Notice I also turned the lower pins inward--easier to hook up on tiny tractors like the BX, 7500, 2410, JD4100, 4010 and 4110. Yep, they are tiny tractors for sure.
Whatever those stock upper pins are intended for would not be using a 4 foot cutter--I think some one somewhere is wacko in the design department if they have such a thing--hey--I work on retainer. J

TresCrows · May 30, 2002

No, the pin holes are larger--sorry, I think you will need a drill and a 7/8 bit. It is a bit of a chore--but it WILL be worth it. Hey, all the stuff to add scalping rollers is easily available. I have a welder outfit both TIG and that silly MIG. I guess this fall or so I will mod mine.
Who at KK also picked out that disgusting puke yellow color? J

Mosey · May 30, 2002

The link pins are 7/8" and the bolts in the bottom are 5/8", so they need to be drilled out if you’re going to move the link pins to those holes. I bought a 7/8" drill bit at TSC, they're $17, but I got 10% off because I bought it during their grand opening (along with a bunch of other stuff including a drill press). It is thick metal, the black bracket is 1/2" thick, so the drilling is not an easy task. I suppose you could use the 5/8" bolts in the top with some flat washers, but I wouldn’t recommend it. Whatever you use, make sure it's grade 5 or better (3 hash marks on the head of the bolt). I was going to drill out the bottom hole and put the pins in the bottom hole like most other people (including my brother) have done, but decided it was a little too low for my tractor, so I just drilled a new hole a couple inches above that. I agree with TresCrows that it's well worth the effort! I can lift the mower plenty high enough now.

djradz · May 30, 2002

Mosey, Fred and all. See the attached link. http://www.tractorbynet.com/cgi-bin...r=141161&page=6&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=

Although this chain setup is on my finish mower, I have the exact setup, except without the turnbuckles, on my Brush Hog. The chains keep the deck front level with the tractor rear tires and in combination with a floating top link on the mower or brush hog, allow the deck to float. I disagree with the assements of a hog not giving a good level cut. With the blades sharp on our hog, the machine mowes almost as smooth, but not quite, as the mower. There's another post in the Attachments section on this and on kits available for setting this all up. I think they're in the $20 to $40 dollar range, but with the exception of the Woods bracket at the tractor end of the top link, I made this one and the one on my hog from eye-bolts, chain, links and turnbuckles. Give it a try, it's a lot simpler and much more heavy-duty than front casters. The other post on the same subject was somewhere around the same date and subject but I can't find it now. If I do I'll post the link too.

beenthere · May 30, 2002

For the benefit of not confusing anyone, draft control is not like you described it. True, it was for plowing, but it worked when the top link was in compression (from a plow running too deep, maybe as a result of the rear wheels spinning deeper into the soil), a spring was compressed, and the control linkage caused the 3pt arms to lift until the compressed spring was released (un-compressed). That in a way was automatic position control. I don't recall any draft control that "knew" what the front end of the tractor was doing relative to the lay of the land. In those days it had to be a mechanical setup, and it worked quite well. I don't mean to sound critical, but want to keep draft control in the right perspective. Seems it is confusing to many people. Not many attachments can benefit from draft control these days, as very few use moldboard plows. I hope this helps.

EdKing · May 30, 2002

I use the draft control whole using my box scraper. I can set a pretty agressive angle on the blade and use the draft to keep it from digging in to deep. It's just the ticket for moving a lot of dirt.

beenthere · May 30, 2002

Re: adjusting brush hog (draft control)

Sounds like a good use of the draft control. Does yours have a compression spring, and can you adjust it?

I was leveling gravel yesterday, and expect I could have used a draft control, but do not have it on my JD4300.

Sorry to all for deviating from the bush hog subject.

EdKing · May 30, 2002

Re: adjusting brush hog (draft control)

<font color=blue>Does yours have a compression spring, and can you adjust it?</font color=blue>

It has a linkage going into the rear end, with a lever next to the posistion control for depth adjust. There is also a plate on the top link attachment point that you flip over to activate the draft control. I just flip the plate over, set the angle on the box blade with the hydraulic top link, and adjust the draft lever until the scraper digs evenly.