adjusting brush hog

[12inchG4s]

Hello, I'm new to TBN, but I've been lurking for a long time. I've searched the threads to find an answer, but I can only find bits and pieces, so I thought I'd ask the experts specifically:

I have a 6 foot rotary HD hog (don't remember brand name, but it's red and 20+ yrs old). It's a piece of cr@p, but it worked better last year.....making me think I have it hooked up wrong. (B4 you ask, the gearbox weld is just a little loose and the blades are adequatly sharp and bolted properly). It does have a rear wheel with no spacers or adjusters. I use an adjustable top link and my 3pt levers.

ALL I AM DOING IS DIGGING IN THE DIRT, SHEARING PINS AND MAKING A MESS. Like I said earlier, it worked fine last fall.

1st- should I allow my 3pt levers to be pushed all the way down to give implement ability to float over imperfections? or should I only allow it to "almost" touch (using stopper) the ground? It seems the latter would fall anyway and/or not cut evenly
2nd- using my top link, should I raise back of unit an inch or two when front end it touching? Adjust it to level? (BTW, I have no front gaurd and often receive kidney busting projectiles.....but that's for another thread) Should I replace toplink with chain?
3rd- should I find spacers for my rear wheel?

LASTLY- In the event that I cannot get this to work descent, I will be in the market for a good used HD 6 footer. I'm in S/E ohio and would spend $750 for a replacement. Besides, the obvious (dealers, ebay, CL, auctions), anybody know of one available?

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Hello, I'm new to TBN, but I've been lurking for a long time. I've searched the threads to find an answer, but I can only find bits and pieces, so I thought I'd ask the experts specifically:

I have a 6 foot rotary HD hog (don't remember brand name, but it's red and 20+ yrs old). It's a piece of cr@p, but it worked better last year.....making me think I have it hooked up wrong. (B4 you ask, the gearbox weld is just a little loose and the blades are adequatly sharp and bolted properly). It does have a rear wheel with no spacers or adjusters. I use an adjustable top link and my 3pt levers.

ALL I AM DOING IS DIGGING IN THE DIRT, SHEARING PINS AND MAKING A MESS. Like I said earlier, it worked fine last fall.

1st- should I allow my 3pt levers to be pushed all the way down to give implement ability to float over imperfections? or should I only allow it to "almost" touch (using stopper) the ground? It seems the latter would fall anyway and/or not cut evenly
2nd- using my top link, should I raise back of unit an inch or two when front end it touching? Adjust it to level? (BTW, I have no front gaurd and often receive kidney busting projectiles.....but that's for another thread) Should I replace toplink with chain?
3rd- should I find spacers for my rear wheel?

LASTLY- In the event that I cannot get this to work descent, I will be in the market for a good used HD 6 footer. I'm in S/E ohio and would spend $750 for a replacement. Besides, the obvious (dealers, ebay, CL, auctions), anybody know of one available?

I'll try to answer as many of these questions as possible. Let's start with front deck height. You DO NOT want to drag the mower. Set the front height with the 3-point hitch. Don't let the skids run on the ground. You don't want to "float" down. And the hitch will allow a certain amount of "float" upwards. If the tractor you're using doesn't have adaquate position control, a set of check chains will help to hold constant height.

Then, adjust the rear wheel (tail wheel) so that it holds the REAR of the deck approx. 1" to 2" higher than the front.

Top link should be slack with the mower in that position. If the mower isn't equipped with a "toggle" at the point where the top link attaches, a chain in place of the top link will work just fine. Some people will contend that a chain will allow the mower to pivot upwards and on to the operator should the mower strike something solid. A work-around on that would be to put a short piece of pipe over most of the length of the chain.

If you're getting hit with objects from under the mower, I'd cease using it until I got some sort of gaurd in place. You never know when the next object might be one capable of seriously injuring you.

$750 for a good, used, heavy duty 6' mower is a stretch. You MIGHT stumble on to one at that price, but don't be shocked to see 'em starting at double that figure. You can find NEW light duty 6' mowers for just a bit more, but a true heavy duty mower in decent shape usually runs quite a bit more.

 

[CadizHunter]

........... Let's start with front deck height. You DO NOT want to drag the mower. Set the front height with the 3-point hitch. Don't let the skids run on the ground. You don't want to "float" down.

I saw a pic that someone welded front wheels (like a finish mower) to keep the front of deck at a constant height. I'm not sure if that would work????

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I saw a pic that someone welded front wheels (like a finish mower) to keep the front of deck at a constant height. I'm not sure if that would work????

I saw that too. It would help in some situations, and they'd be in the way in others. Problem is, more often than not, a bush hog style cutter is used in rough terrain. I'm thinking smaller wheels would tend to catch in depressions and such.

 

[12inchG4s]

I would love to see that pic. Where was is? Do you have it handy?

 

[greenmule]

Tell you how I do it[I fear no evil]....I got mine about 4 1/2 inches off ground all the way around[measured from bottom edge].

I use a chain with plenty of slack instead of top link.

Just got done cutting the areas on my property that I hog off about 3-4 times a year[about 10 acres or so] much of this first cutting was 3-4 ft tall of thick orchard grass/weeds etc.,worked great as always. I keep tractor tach at the mark and use 540 pto speed.

 

[12inchG4s]

I use a chain with plenty of slack instead of top link.

.

I keep hearing this, but I guess since I'm from Missouri (I mean Ohio) I need to see it to understand it. Got any pix?

BTW- thx to FWJ and other replies

 

[Opti-Mist]

12inch - visualize operating this way on undulating ground. High spots (tall grass) will be minimized without real low spots (short grass). The chain is an time tested means of attaining a more uniform cutting height.

 

[greenmule]

No I ain't got no pictures,but just picture in your mind,[ok now concentrate],brush hog setting hooked up to your tractor tailwheel on ground,ready to cut,now remove that solid toplink,and in its place,hook up a medium sized length of chain with a couple of shackles to where solid top link hooked up,let said chain have 3-4 inches or so of slack in it,there,now you are ready.

Gotta play with how much slack you have,[experiment with it].

 

[Oldmax]

I have a 5' Kingkutter when I set it up on tractor I try to have level all way around about 4" to 5" off ground . I would neaver set front lower than rear.you want to cut level. if you are having trouble going through dips I use chains in place of struts on mower. see picture.