Snow Equipment Owning/Operating Adjusting Chains

[caspar3259]

Ive been looking at your chain situation and my question to you is your inside connection looser thus forcing you to over tighten the outside side link?

I tightened the inside first and on one tire the inside is on the exact same link, and on the other tire it is one link "looser".

I drove around the driveway twice and they are about as tight as I can get them by hand.

I assume they are the right size as I clicked on the 12.4-24 link on tirechains.com and that is the size stamped on the side of the tire. I believe the bags were labeled #229, which is probably a tirechains.com stock #.

I think I'll just use them as-is, with the exception of adding tensioners. It's kinda strange to have one cross chain loose because it's "outside" the buckle.

-Jeff

 

[Chilly807]

For the sake of playing devil's advocate, I'll mention that there are two schools of thought on how tight chains should be.

Mine (Tellefsdal ice chains) are meant to be run quite loose, according to the installation instructions you should be able to easily slip a clenched fist under the side chains, and the chain should move about 30 cm around the circumference of the tire after driving a half mile or so.

I've run them this way for 2 full winters with zero problems, they are just tight enough that they don't slap the fenders. The manufacturer says that overly tight chains will wear tires, and are much more efficient when loose.

I use small shackles with a piece of stove wire locking the screw pin to hold the side chains together.

I cut mine to size, and shortened them once more after the first season, to be sure they were long enough.

Sean

 

[JoeL4330]

here's a link to the chain tool Cooper Tools 0390MLN Chain Repair Tool Bender 30 in L

 

[crazyal]

If it was me I think I would modify those chains. I think that crosslink that attaches to the slack portion of the chain could cause you problems. The U shaped end link that connects the cross link to the side chain can be opened up and moved to a different side link. If you ever have to replace a cross link you also would open them up.

You could move the last couple of cross links closer together or you could leave the link open enough so it will slide onto the side chain and hook it onto the other end of the chain.

 

[leonz]

I tightened the inside first and on one tire the inside is on the exact same link, and on the other tire it is one link "looser".

I drove around the driveway twice and they are about as tight as I can get them by hand.

I assume they are the right size as I clicked on the 12.4-24 link on tirechains.com and that is the size stamped on the side of the tire. I believe the bags were labeled #229, which is probably a tirechains.com stock #.

I think I'll just use them as-is, with the exception of adding tensioners. It's kinda strange to have one cross chain loose because it's "outside" the buckle.

-Jeff

As Sean/Chilly807 has mentioned you should loosen the chains enough to allow you to slip your palm under the cross chain. What this does is allows the cross chain to dig in to the snow and ice before the tread/rubber contacts the cross chain.

Tthe impact and digging in of the lugs of the cross chain agaist the snow/ice helps anchor the cross chain and allows it to hold and then release as the next cross chain impacts the snow and ice as you travel in either direction.

A tightened snow chain does not allow the cross chain to impact the face of the snow/ice and start to dig in before the tire advances and the torque of the rear wheels in travel spins the chain and tire "as one" negating/reducing the traction advantage of a looser cross chain across the bias/face of the tire.

You have to remember that there is only one skinny section of cross chain that is in contact with the ground just like one rib of an R1 or R4 rear tire during the dry months.

 

[Chilly807]

As Sean/Chilly807 has mentioned you should loosen the chains enough to allow you to slip your palm under the cross chain. What this does is allows the cross chain to dig in to the snow and ice before the tread/rubber contacts the cross chain.

Tthe impact and digging in of the lugs of the cross chain agaist the snow/ice helps anchor the cross chain and allows it to hold and then release as the next cross chain impacts the snow and ice as you travel in either direction.

A tightened snow chain does not allow the cross chain to impact the face of the snow/ice and start to dig in before the tire advances and the torque of the rear wheels in travel spins the chain and tire "as one" negating/reducing the traction advantage of a looser cross chain across the bias/face of the tire.

You have to remember that there is only one skinny section of cross chain that is in contact with the ground just like one rib of an R1 or R4 rear tire during the dry months.

I couldn't have explained it any better if I'd tried, Leon...:thumbsup:

Sean

 

[Chilly807]

If it was me I think I would modify those chains. I think that crosslink that attaches to the slack portion of the chain could cause you problems. The U shaped end link that connects the cross link to the side chain can be opened up and moved to a different side link. If you ever have to replace a cross link you also would open them up.

You could move the last couple of cross links closer together or you could leave the link open enough so it will slide onto the side chain and hook it onto the other end of the chain.

This is what I did with the ends of mine, instead of the last end being a 4 link it is now a 2 or 3 link, I can't recall exactly. I used a cold chisel and a hammer to open the "crimped" ends where the crosslink attaches to the side chain, then a block of hardwood as an anvil and a big hammer to close them again.

There IS a special tool for doing this, all my method cost me was some time, swearing, and a band-aid or two.. you're not likely to need the tool again anytime soon.

Sean