Adjusting Track Width, L3700

[Recoveryhill]

I know this has been covered before but here's my results for adjusting the track width of the rears on an L3700.

Elapsed time: 1 hour

Tools: 200# X 1/2 drive torque wrench w/24mm socket and long extension, 2.5 ton trolley jack and a jack stand.

Placed jack under axle housing and jacked until rubber just cleared the ground. Placed stand under drawbar as a safety. Loosened nuts at hub and dish to wheel, no problem with the long torque wrench handle.

Removed wheel, shifted disk to inside of rim and used outer lugs on rim to refasten disk to wheel. Carriage head studs now face inward with nuts towards tractor centerline, opposite of direction when disk is mounted outside rim. Torque disk to rim nuts before mounting to tractor, location, location, location since they are now on the inside of the rubber.

Torqued to 160 ft. lbs. and done.

I measured one side vs. the other, halfway through the job. Rough dimension is 2.75", rubber to fender flange on wide side, 1/2" rubber to flange on narrow side.

Pictures from rear showing right side wide, left side narrow and picture of rim before and after move.

Next step is to fill the rears with water and I'm going to feel much better about the stance, on my uneven ground.

Hope this helps anyone doing this job and if you have any questions, ask away!

DonTomas de Recovery Hill

 

[TripleR]

I had mine widened before my L5030 HSTC and M8540 were delivered as well as filled with windshield wiper fluid. It makes for a much more stable machine. I really think you will notice a difference.

 

[Sumpter]

I changed mine after I got it home and the tires were already loaded. Like you you, jack, jack stands, engine hoist, etc. Didn't notice much difference in stability although I know it is better, but I don't have to worry about the chains taking out the inside part of the plastic fenders now.:thumbsup:

 

[dex3361]

I know this has been covered before but here's my results for adjusting the track width of the rears on an L3700.

Elapsed time: 1 hour

Tools: 200# X 1/2 drive torque wrench w/24mm socket and long extension, 2.5 ton trolley jack and a jack stand.

Placed jack under axle housing and jacked until rubber just cleared the ground. Placed stand under drawbar as a safety. Loosened nuts at hub and dish to wheel, no problem with the long torque wrench handle.

Removed wheel, shifted disk to inside of rim and used outer lugs on rim to refasten disk to wheel. Carriage head studs now face inward with nuts towards tractor centerline, opposite of direction when disk is mounted outside rim. Torque disk to rim nuts before mounting to tractor, location, location, location since they are now on the inside of the rubber.

Torqued to 160 ft. lbs. and done.

I measured one side vs. the other, halfway through the job. Rough dimension is 2.75", rubber to fender flange on wide side, 1/2" rubber to flange on narrow side.

Pictures from rear showing right side wide, left side narrow and picture of rim before and after move.

Next step is to fill the rears with water and I'm going to feel much better about the stance, on my uneven ground.

Hope this helps anyone doing this job and if you have any questions, ask away!

DonTomas de Recovery Hill

Can you go wider? It looks like you can remove the left side wheel roll it around to the other side and bolt it on the outside of the rim and take advantage of the offset of the bolt flange of the outer rim. that would give a even wider stance and give more stability. :thumbsup:

 

[arsenix2001]

Can you go wider? It looks like you can remove the left side wheel roll it around to the other side and bolt it on the outside of the rim and take advantage of the offset of the bolt flange of the outer rim. that would give a even wider stance and give more stability. :thumbsup:

+1 on that