Adjusting valves.

[clemsonfor]

This has been on my mind lately. With various threads discussing it and me having the tractor for 3 years now and over 100 hours, im thinking about adjusting the valves. I have never adjusted valves on anything, watched a video on youtube about adjusting my 4wheelers but never did it.

Is it going to be really straight foward?

Can someone give a really quick straight foward synopsis of the process. I have read on Hoyes site their description but wanted to hear form yall.

I am going to look it up in the yanmar service manual i have for a ym240 to see what it says.

 

[mvwicker]

This has been on my mind lately. With various threads discussing it and me having the tractor for 3 years now and over 100 hours, im thinking about adjusting the valves. I have never adjusted valves on anything, watched a video on youtube about adjusting my 4wheelers but never did it.

Is it going to be really straight foward?

Can someone give a really quick straight foward synopsis of the process. I have read on Hoyes site their description but wanted to hear form yall.

I am going to look it up in the yanmar service manual i have for a ym240 to see what it says.

I've done it on two gas vehicles, one screw-and-locknut and one shim-over-bucket, and consider it a straightforward one-day task.
You need the manual and some good feeler gauges, plus whatever you need to take the valve cover off the engine.
For the screw-and-locknut adjusters you also need a tiny wrench, what they used to call an "ignition wrench"
For the shim-over-bucket style you need the replacement shims; if you you will do this a lot you can get a set beforehand,
which will also save time as otherwise you have to order the right shims after the engine is apart.

There is an earlier TBN thread on this topic:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/249376-valve-adjustment-ym186d.html

It points to this website with some pictures of the screw-and-locknut system:

Yanmar Tractor Valve Setting

 

[winston1]

The hoye instructions are great as far as I'm concerned.

 

[Car Doc]

Just bump the engine over with a starter button and the comp release pulled and tied off if it wont stay out and make sure the lifters are at the lowest point before adjusting them. And do 1 after another even if there is one further down that looks right its easier to keep track doing 1 after the other! (believe me I do valves all the time on real complicated 4 valve engines easy to get "lost":laughing: ) Of course on a 4 valves total 2 cyl engine if you get lost I cant help ya! :laughing:

That's all there is too it and go back and recheck yourself after its all done.

The amount of drag on the feeler gage is supposed to be just that a drag not hard pull or real easy either you dont want the valves to be trying to open when the feeler is in there or be able to rattle the gage around either. These valve springs are ridiculously weak so its not hard to be pushing one down. You should be able to re-insert the gage w/o a lot of pressure just a feel of drag and not like having to push and finagle it back in it should fit if you drag it back in from the side fwtw.

I take my screw driver and with the wrench already on the nut tighten the screw down until I get the "feel" and then tighten the nut w/o turning the screw and re-check until the right "feel" is gotten and after all done go back and do it again with just the gage and adjust again if necessary.