Adjustments on Quick-Attach 210 FEL??

[Anonymous Poster]

I got my 2210 today /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
But I had to mow the yard so I took the FEL off. easy..quick to take off. BUT, I can't get it back on. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif The latch bar won't come up high enough on the front to put the U-pins back in. It looks like the loader is hitting the front part of the "bumper"..if that makes any sense...
Is there any adjustments possible?

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Hi Russell,
Congrats! You'll find the 2210 a great machine/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif.

Is the tractor on level ground? If yes and the front mount of the loader frame still does not line-up with the tractor frame, you may want to check the following: On each side of the loader frame are two carriage type bolts (see the bottom illustration on page 52 in you loader manual). The nuts to these bolts face the tractor side panels. Loosening these nuts will allow a little fore/aft adjustment to the front half of the loader frame. Once adjusted, reference your manual for loader installation procedures and confirm all loader mountings are aligned, properly seated and tight before operating.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Thanks! I did eventually find it in the Loader manual. Too bad I didn't get a chance to fix it last night. At first I questioned the manual b/c I figured there wouldn't be much adjustment in the frame, but we will find out!

I love my tractor. At first I was a little concerned that I didn't get 4110/15. But after getting it out in the yard, I knew that I made the right choice.

 

[bigpete]

My experience, and following the manual, is that you should perform this function with the tractor running in neutral and the hydraulics hooked up. When you retract the loader cylinders, the back of the loader arms will seat on the support posts, and the tractor will roll forward into place. You should continue retracting the cylinders until the front wheels just leave the ground. The holes in the bracket should line up with the latch holes, and you should be able to easily snap them in. Extend the cylinders until your wheels are on the ground and your bucket lifts up. You should be ready to go.

This seemed a little uncomfortable the first time I did it. Don't take my word for it--you can read this in your manual or on the left post of the loader frame.

 

[bigpete]

Hey, Russell...glad you got it. I guess we were typing at the same time.

Be safe...

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I tried to adjust the arms last night, but it didn't help. I couldn't get the bar close enough to the frame, and I didn't have a clamp to pull it in as the manual says.

I hope this is a 1 time deal or I'm gonna rant about it.

 

[bigpete]

Russell,

I'm a bit confused. If it came off without any problems, it should go back on without any problems. When you re-attach the loader, you essentially "lift" the loader frame into place to match up the latch pins with the holes in the bracket attached to the frame. Read your directions again very, very carefully. There is no way that it could have been attached correctly when you parked it, and then need adjustment to get it back on.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I think I had the same issue the first time I loaded/unloaded the 210. It was like a nightmare.

Three things I discovered helped. I'm now down to 60 seconds for the whole operation, and there's no fighting or crowbars involved.

1> When diconnecting the 210, only lift the 210 off the tractor arms enough to clear the wheels. Do NOT go all the way up. This will give you enough hose to be flexible when reconnecting.

2> When connecting the 210, you MUST drive forward a little when lowering the arms. It's a timing thing. Just a little force forward locks the arms in while lowering. If they are not squarly locked in, the pins will not align nor set in. Don't fight it. If it doesn't lock in, lift, drive back, then forward again while attempting to lock the arms in.

3> Be on a flat surface that will allow you to drive up the way you drove away.

I swore it was out of adjustment the first time, until I learned these little secrets.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I was on a VERY slight grade. It was sticking just before the bar would start to go into the bottom hole. I don't know where exactly it was binding. I agree Pete, that it should went on as easy as it came off. When I first pulled the pins out, they were so tight I couldn't pull them out. I had to tap them out with a hammer.

I got it back on tonight using two ratchet straps to pull it the rest of the way up. I might try again Saturday to see if it's any better or if that slight grade made my life very difficult. In one way, I can see that it might have been binding b/c of the ground, but at the same time, it wasn't that unlevel. I'll try it again sometime when I get brave /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Other than this, I <font color="green"> LUV </font> my JD.

 

[bigpete]

Are you lifting the front tires up a little using the hydraulics? The first time I re-attached, I just let the hydraulics roll the tractor into place, then tried to drop the pins in--no go, just like you described. I read my manual and it said to lift the front wheels slightly. I did so, and voila....perfect fit for the pins.

Good luck.