Thanks for the input I will be going with 16 inch on center for everything except for the roof, they will be 24 on center with 5/8 plywood. The reason I asked the question is because several builders have mentoned this to me but I have never heard of it before . I would call it cheap building also but when I ran a search on Advaced Building Techniques it is always talking about 24 on center. Thanks for the info.
Advanced framming
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slapshot
Silver Member
One thing to look at on your roof is that it may be cheaper to set your trusses 16" oc instead of 24". The cost of sheet good (at least around here) is high and going higher. So buying a couple extra trusses may be cheaper than paying $3-$4 a sheet extra for thicker plywood.
Good luck
-dave
Good luck
-dave
SPIKER
Elite Member
duane: you mentioned "advantced building" but what you spected was "Advantced Scamming" I would Never buy or let a builder build me a home with out having some sort of ridgid framing on the exterior walls and Never let them space floor joists on anything other than 16" OC the 24" roof trusses is regulary done BUT the 16" is usually less than $1000 more per house unless it is some complicated truss work. figuring that you save 8" per truss that means on a 50' long home you have 13 extra trusses to buy at maybe $50 per truss which is only $650 for the 50' home. cheap insurance if you ever need some protection in a storm.
blue board as mentioned above has 0 shear loading. this means "Racking" of the house lots of these are getting built now and first good wind storm the drywall is all that holds them form sliding over on them selves Expecially for 2 story homes. this blue board practice SHOULD be outlawed and in fact some local municipalities are already zoning it out of acceptance. also blueboard, can not retain siding nails correctly or stop kids from crashing into and breaking though the siding as the siding has 0 backing. std CDX (exterior grade plywood is better than OSB but also costs more $ but it should be 1/2" or thicker is better.
if you do have 24" oc trusses it REQUIRES clips and at least 21/32 sheeting around here. again the cost per sheet is not all that great to bump up from the 7/16" never roof with anything less than that as the nails will not even hold for more than a few years... also note that there HAS to be hurricane strapping nailed using every OPEN nail hole in the strap on every truss in many areas and is a good idea anywhere. the proper nails in those straps too! (yes they require a specific nails types/size to meet the shear loads generated in high winds) also many builders will skimp on roofing too. not using felt or tarpaper at all and laying shingles over the roofing. also note, OSB has a slick side (waxy) and a rough side little dimples and dry wood side. make sure it is installed correctly the wax side should be up but lots of times it is put in down so roofers can walk on it but I belive manufactures call thiis the exterior side and will not warrenty it if it is installed the otherside up...
floor joists should should also have proper bracing between the joists (not more than 8' between X braces in the floor joists.) often "Forgotten by accident." and these need to be nailed in prior to the sub floor going down. one thing I was slightly jipped in when I didn't check it with a tape. this will contribute to floor bounce/giving under walking or moving of heavy loads. the X braces keep the dim lumber from twisting slightly under the load and hence the slight bounce feeling. Sub-floor material min of 3/4" T&G CDX. the OSB can flake badly over time and flexing will cause it to lift fibers up through carpeting in some cases. also with PL400 or better subfloor glue & preferably screws yet many will balk at this.
ok anyhow I'm more of a drywall hanger & finisher so if you need more advice there ask away. also my trade now is induatrial electrician/mantenance. for 10 yrs I was a welder fabricator which I did AFTER hanging drywall for 3 years and being in the military for 6 years. and workign on cars profesional autobody for 4 years rior to that all through jr high & high school. I have lots or well rounded tallents but can't seem to get the hang of not trying somethign NEW /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif (oh also have a 2 yr electronic engineering degree which I learnt I couldn't stand to set and do math all day even though I graduated on deans list with a 3.78 gpa. ( first 3 english & math classes kicked my butt after being out of school for 15 years! /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif so my learning curve was longer than the freash from high school kids I was in class with..)
that being said you're area may vary on building practices and zoneing from that of mine. but then again I live in an un-zoned area where you can live in a tent and use an out house as long as you have the water well inspected at time it was dug. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
MarkM
blue board as mentioned above has 0 shear loading. this means "Racking" of the house lots of these are getting built now and first good wind storm the drywall is all that holds them form sliding over on them selves Expecially for 2 story homes. this blue board practice SHOULD be outlawed and in fact some local municipalities are already zoning it out of acceptance. also blueboard, can not retain siding nails correctly or stop kids from crashing into and breaking though the siding as the siding has 0 backing. std CDX (exterior grade plywood is better than OSB but also costs more $ but it should be 1/2" or thicker is better.
if you do have 24" oc trusses it REQUIRES clips and at least 21/32 sheeting around here. again the cost per sheet is not all that great to bump up from the 7/16" never roof with anything less than that as the nails will not even hold for more than a few years... also note that there HAS to be hurricane strapping nailed using every OPEN nail hole in the strap on every truss in many areas and is a good idea anywhere. the proper nails in those straps too! (yes they require a specific nails types/size to meet the shear loads generated in high winds) also many builders will skimp on roofing too. not using felt or tarpaper at all and laying shingles over the roofing. also note, OSB has a slick side (waxy) and a rough side little dimples and dry wood side. make sure it is installed correctly the wax side should be up but lots of times it is put in down so roofers can walk on it but I belive manufactures call thiis the exterior side and will not warrenty it if it is installed the otherside up...
floor joists should should also have proper bracing between the joists (not more than 8' between X braces in the floor joists.) often "Forgotten by accident." and these need to be nailed in prior to the sub floor going down. one thing I was slightly jipped in when I didn't check it with a tape. this will contribute to floor bounce/giving under walking or moving of heavy loads. the X braces keep the dim lumber from twisting slightly under the load and hence the slight bounce feeling. Sub-floor material min of 3/4" T&G CDX. the OSB can flake badly over time and flexing will cause it to lift fibers up through carpeting in some cases. also with PL400 or better subfloor glue & preferably screws yet many will balk at this.
ok anyhow I'm more of a drywall hanger & finisher so if you need more advice there ask away. also my trade now is induatrial electrician/mantenance. for 10 yrs I was a welder fabricator which I did AFTER hanging drywall for 3 years and being in the military for 6 years. and workign on cars profesional autobody for 4 years rior to that all through jr high & high school. I have lots or well rounded tallents but can't seem to get the hang of not trying somethign NEW /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif (oh also have a 2 yr electronic engineering degree which I learnt I couldn't stand to set and do math all day even though I graduated on deans list with a 3.78 gpa. ( first 3 english & math classes kicked my butt after being out of school for 15 years! /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif so my learning curve was longer than the freash from high school kids I was in class with..)
that being said you're area may vary on building practices and zoneing from that of mine. but then again I live in an un-zoned area where you can live in a tent and use an out house as long as you have the water well inspected at time it was dug. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
MarkM
