Advice for Removing Diesel Injector Pump on 'Ford' 1910 Compact Tractor

[fourbrads]

Are you sure it's the injection pump? We have an older 1900, probably a 1980 model. Broke, disced, cultivated 40 acres with that rascal for years. Still cultivate with it. No pump issues. Funny about it, you have to use the glow plugs, even in July, if you want it to start. Been that way since day one.

Well, in short...no. The symptoms seem to point that way though, including that I have to change the oil every two uses because it keeps dumping diesel into the oil pan. Dilutes itself to where it starts blowing out like water from the breather tube. Plus, when I shut it down, I can hear what sounds like water draining down for several minutes afterward (on the right side of the engine). Seems to come from the housing in the front of the pump, which also seems to be the source of a major diluted diesel fuel leak. I put flattened cardboard boxes down after use and it will soak the boxes completely overnight.

I know very little about tractors and less about diesels. Kicking these symptoms around with a few folks lead me to believe I was dealing with a likely bad seal between the pump and the gear housing. I suspect if I fix just that seal, other things will pop up.

Thoughts?

I, too, have to use the glow plugs in July, even after running it for a while!

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Well, in short...no. The symptoms seem to point that way though, including that I have to change the oil every two uses because it keeps dumping diesel into the oil pan. Dilutes itself to where it starts blowing out like water from the breather tube. Plus, when I shut it down, I can hear what sounds like water draining down for several minutes afterward (on the right side of the engine). Seems to come from the housing in the front of the pump, which also seems to be the source of a major diluted diesel fuel leak. I put flattened cardboard boxes down after use and it will soak the boxes completely overnight.

I know very little about tractors and less about diesels. Kicking these symptoms around with a few folks lead me to believe I was dealing with a likely bad seal between the pump and the gear housing. I suspect if I fix just that seal, other things will pop up.

Thoughts?

I, too, have to use the glow plugs in July, even after running it for a while!

That's the only thing about those tractors, always cold.

Injection pumps expensive to rebuild. Seals are cheap to replace. Your symptom is called, making oil. Because your fuel leaks into the crankcase, making oil level rise. But, if the machine runs fine, no rebuild needed. There is a pump guy on here you can send it to and he can replace the seal and send it back. You don't need to goof it up, it'll be enough for you to remove it and re install it. Since you stated your abilities earlier. No problem, I don't know much about some things too. He usually visits a thread like this, must be gone or busy.

 

[MRTOES]

I've had a 1710 for over 20 years....Don't ever let it run out of fuel. re-priming is a nightmare unless you do it by the book and cracking the injector lines will not be enough if the pump itself gets dry.

 

[thepumpguysc]

I’ll be happy to have a look at it BUT.. it’s gotta be timed and removed first..HENCE the topic of the thread..

 

[rScotty]

Here's few pages from a manual regarding Ford 1910 injection pump.

It's not a dealer manual, rather something from online few years ago!

Sorry for the lousy text quality, it's a scanned copy of a print, which was probably scanned from original?
It is more or better legible if you zoom in in a monitor.

Thanks for posting that pump timing pdf. I don't even have that model Ford or know anyone who does - although I do remember when they were popular. But sured did enjoy reading the article. Very well written.
Do you have the rest of the manual as well? Or a link?
Some people like reading novels....I like reading shop manuals.
rScotty

BTW, do you ever wonder why the injector timing varies 5 degrees or so on very similar engines?

 

[fourbrads]

That's the only thing about those tractors, always cold.

Injection pumps expensive to rebuild. Seals are cheap to replace. Your symptom is called, making oil. Because your fuel leaks into the crankcase, making oil level rise. But, if the machine runs fine, no rebuild needed. There is a pump guy on here you can send it to and he can replace the seal and send it back. You don't need to goof it up, it'll be enough for you to remove it and re install it. Since you stated your abilities earlier. No problem, I don't know much about some things too. He usually visits a thread like this, must be gone or busy.

It does run well. Cold-blooded, like you said, but it does run well.

Parts for these pumps seem to be scarce as hen's teeth.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

It does run well. Cold-blooded, like you said, but it does run well.

Parts for these pumps seem to be scarce as hen's t

Wait until you need a water pump. I'll rebuild that for you. If it is real expensive. I've done several. You can buy just the seals for it. And while I'm thinking about it, if your battery is in front of the radiator, put it in one of those marine battery boxes. The fan pulls acid through the radiator and ruins it. We put ours in one in 1984 and she's been no problem since. We just put a ratchet strap around under the frame and over battery box and solved that problem. If you need to use jumper cables on it, just hook your pos on the starter, it's the hot side of battery. Ground on the engine. Don't have to fool with the box. We used our tractor daily. We ran 4 pilgrim pride egg laying chicken houses. Fifty thousand chickens, thirty thousand eggs a day, seven days a week. Plus cows, pigs, goats, donkeys, horses, whatever. We fixed it all. That was a good run in life. I couldn't ask for any better.

 

[fourbrads]

For those following along at home...

After disassembling what seemed like half the tractor, I finally got the pump gear off and got my first look at the inside-the-timing-cover side of the seal and pump shaft. As an experiment, I dried everything well, then reinstated the fuel lines and opened the fuel valve. In mere minutes, enough diesel had seeped through the seal that I felt confident that's where the problem lies. If it did this under gravity flow, under pressure it must be leaking like crazy.

I also noted some black rtv at the top of the seal, so I'm wondering if I'm not the first one in here.

Question: I'm assuming I need to pull this flange off to replace the seal. Is there a seal on this side AND the front of the pump? Or in the body of the pump on the other side? I'm assuming I still need to pull the pump and send the whole thing off, even if this seal is the culprit?

Thanks for all of the advice. It's all helpful.

Jim

 

[arto98607]

Please see the manual pages in post #6

It looks like models 1500 thru 2110 should have very similar design injection pumps and there is an exploded view of pump internals included.

 

[thepumpguysc]

There ISN’T supposed to be fuel there..
The pump is oil lubricated.!!
If it’s leaking fuel there, it means that the pumping plungers are so worn out that it’s seeping past the metal to metal sealing surfaces.!!