Advice needed with JD 2240 rear rim replacement

[edozun]

My rim rotted at the valve stem and all the fluid ran out. I've got a replacement rim. The traveling service tech said he didn't want to mess with the wheel due to the wedges being a pain. I've broken the 8 nuts loose (5) and juiced up the bolts (4), but they do NOT want to come out. Any tips on how to get those bolts (4) and clamps (3) to come free from the wheel disk (2)? Thanks in advance!

 

[Tx Jim]

How long of a breaker pipe(CHEATER) did you utilize on your ratchet/break over?? Do you have access to an impact wrench &/or acetylene torch? With wheel valve stem removed & rear axle jacked up if impact won't remove nuts then I'd heat nut & apply candle wax to bolt threads. Back when I was employed by a dealer I changed frt/rear tire setting on new/used tractors & didn't think it was that difficult. IMHO once the nuts/bolts have been removed the wedges on your type wheels are easy to remove!!! Removing wedges doesn't require rocket scientist mentality or Incredible Hulk strength.!!

 

[CoyPatton]

Candle wax works great you need enough hear to ‘wick’ the wax through the threads. It does not need to glow red.
If wax does not do the trick, someone may have stretched threads previously, requiring cutting the bolts into.

 

[Sportsman762]

If I am reading this correctly OP has the nut loose, but the bolts will not come out. There is never any room to get a good hit with a hammer, so they can be a little bit of a pain.

I would put the nuts on loose and drive the tractor a little to see if the wedges will unwedge themselves. Not sure why the traveling "service tech" wont free them up, seems like an issue with the tech, not the job. They are not fun to do, but I have replaced wedge style wheels on much much larger tires before. Always make sure to keep the tractor supported and a skid steer, loader, or crane to keep the tire from falling on you.

 

[denchen]

Emmm. New nuts and bolts, now where's that angle grinder with the cutting disc.

 

[oosik]

I would try heat. After a mistake with my propane torch - I now use a commercial heat gun.

 

[RickB]

Jack up the wheel, put the nuts back on the bolts leaving space between the wedge and back side of the nut. Then it's a matter of hammering the nut/bolt end until one of them releases. Starting at the bottom would be best. If you can get one to move the rest will move (somewhat) easily. Use a LARGE hammer used aggressively or an air chisel with a blunt tool.

 

[Tx Jim]

If I am reading this correctly OP has the nut loose, but the bolts will not come out. There is never any room to get a good hit with a hammer, so they can be a little bit of a pain.

I would put the nuts on loose and drive the tractor a little to see if the wedges will unwedge themselves. Not sure why the traveling "service tech" wont free them up, seems like an issue with the tech, not the job. They are not fun to do, but I have replaced wedge style wheels on much much larger times before. Always make sure to keep the tractor supported and a skid steer, loader, or crane to keep the tire from falling on you.

I agree with you. IIRC the wedges will come loose with ""bolts in place when rim is moved away from cast center"". It's apparent my reading comprehension wasn't very good when I read op's 1st statement !!!.

 

[RickB]

If I am reading this correctly OP has the nut loose, but the bolts will not come out. There is never any room to get a good hit with a hammer, so they can be a little bit of a pain.

I would put the nuts on loose and drive the tractor a little to see if the wedges will unwedge themselves. Not sure why the traveling "service tech" wont free them up, seems like an issue with the tech, not the job. They are not fun to do, but I have replaced wedge style wheels on much much larger times before. Always make sure to keep the tractor supported and a skid steer, loader, or crane to keep the tire from falling on you.

The wheel is probably older than the tech and he's never been tasked with this job before.

 

[pjbci]

Some times they will pop loose just by striking the rim straight down next to the wedge a few times. Start at the bottom and put the nuts back on like RickB suggested to keep em from flying across the shop. Tractor wedges are cut to where they usually dont fly out like truck wedges do but they can.

 

[rScotty]

THanks for the wheel diagram picture! My same type wheels on the JD530 aren't stuck - or at least weren't last time I tried to move them. Not using fluid in the tires may have something to do with that.

I worry about it though. Prevention is to remember to squirt some 90wt on the wheel fastenings every decade or two.
As for stuck fasteners, what we used to hear people say was to loosen all the wheel nuts and fastenings that you can, apply lots of penetrating oil, and gently drive back and forth every few days. Heat and repeat.

For heat on stuck tractor parts I use an oxy/acetylene torch with a smallish welding tip - flame about the size of a grain of small pencil eraser - so that I can heat up small areas like the nut or bolt shank without heating up all the surrounding parts. Have never tried the candle wax trick, but it sounds good.
rScotty

For impact, the minimum here is a 1/2" impact wrench with 300/400 ft lbs of torque. Then for rotation, 3//4" minimum and a cheater.

 

[RickB]

In these applications the bolt has a better chance of becoming a missile than the wedge. Those unfamiliar with dismounting a rim attached with wedges may be confusing rusted/stuck hardware with pinched/jammed bolts. These bolts could be rusted fast but they are certainly jammed by lateral forces exerted by the rim and wedges on the cast center.