Advice on choosing proper rod diameter/size,

[Mark @ Everlast]

Big Wave,
I hate to promote myself, but take a look at the video that I shot on YouTube. That is an open root plate, similar to what you'd want to do on the arms. You can see how I put in the root pass with 6010/6011. I was in a hurry, and did not grind back the edge on the restart to get better penetration, but you can see the result. Stepping the rod will pull the arc out of the puddle and lengthen it just enough so there is very little metal being deposited. You can't see the arc perfectly, but you can pick up the overall motion and speed. This part starts around 2:30.YouTube - everlastgenerator's Channel

 

[Shield Arc]

Big wave let me see if I can explain this well enough with this key board. If you were here I could show you in about 10-minutes.
Like I said before, if you're not working to a WPS, which you're not, then theres no rules!
For open root / 100% penetration on 1/4 inch and thicker material I like a 37 1/2 degree bevel, with a 3/32 inch or nickel thickness land / root face. When using 1/8 inch rod I like a 5/64 inch gap, in other words a tight 3/32 inch gap. I run 6010 / 6011 around 75 to 80 amps, (vertical up) little hotter for other positions. I like the cut and fill method, (makes me feel like I'm in control):laughing:. Move forward, (cut) move back, (fill). You have a lot of control of the puddle by which way you point the rod. When cutting I point the rod forward in the direction of travel, when moving back for the fill I point the rod backwards towards the already deposited metal. If you could get around someone who knows how to do it, it's not that hard.

 

[shade tree welder]

SA that second picture is sweet, you ought to
explain what you are showing there with it.

 

[Soundguy]

ditto that. 1/8 rod is what I grab when i weld 3/8-1/2"

soundguy

In the vertical position I can see where it takes some experience. That will come in time.
Flat, horizontal, and over head it shouldn't be an issue at all, with the proper joint prep. I wouldn't think twice about running 1/8 inch rod on 1/2 inch plate, in fact that's the very rod I'd grab for vertical, maybe 5/32 for the other positions. Big Wave remember there is no shame in spending a little time in removing a part, or standing it up to make the weld in the flat position! Littler tougher if we're talking battle ships! :laughing:
I have had steady diets of splicing 36 inch I-beams, generally there is always a crane or at least a forklift on site, it is mush more productive to roll the beams than weld in position!

 

[Shield Arc]

SA that second picture is sweet, you ought to
explain what you are showing there with it.

Sorry about that!
That's the inside of a 2-inch pipe. Welded from the outside with open root. 1/16-inch gap, with a 3/32-inch land. Welded with 3/32-inch 6010.
Just showing the penetration.

 

[Big Wave D]

Shield Arc,

In your first picture, what's your gauge made of?

It looks like a length of square key stock that you literally brazed a nickel, or maybe a penny - it's kind of copper colored in your photo, on to the end, but I'm sure I have to be in left field on that one.

 

[Shield Arc]

Shield Arc,

In your first picture, what's your gauge made of?

It looks like a length of square key stock that you literally brazed a nickel, or maybe a penny - it's kind of copper colored in your photo, on to the end, but I'm sure I have to be in left field on that one.

You know I'm not a bad weldor, but man do I suck at taken pictures!

I couldn't figure out how to hold up the nickel on the pipe, so I clamped the square stock in the bench vice, shoved the pipe up next to it. Used just a touch of that Gorilla glue to hold the nickel to the square stock.:laughing:

 

[Big Wave D]

And here I thought you'd let us newbies into the inner sanctum of all master welders, 'the gauge'.

Only able to be carried by those that have passed all 19 levels of initiation rights and are able to light an O/A torch by thought alone. :laughing:

Yeah Shield Arc, stick to welding.

 

[jcliburn]

You know I'm not a bad weldor, but man do I suck at taken pictures!
]

I think your white balance setting is incorrect in either your camera or in your post processing software, which is resulting in that warm, golden tint to your photos. ISTR in another thread you mentioned you use Linux (and maybe the Gimp?) for processing your shots. If you're interested, pm me and we can talk more about it. I'm a Gimp user.