Advice on driveway repair/sloping/drainage

   / Advice on driveway repair/sloping/drainage #1  


Super Member
May 12, 2013
Thread update, just look at all those old threads it appears no one is fixing driveways anymore, aren't we lucky. But after 25 years my driveway has turned into another dead end Jeep trail, the reason why is run-off water and the cure for long lasting driveway is expensive.

The driveway fixes I see are hot-top, re-claimed hot-top. gravel and then theres gravel with breeze in it, well who ever heard of breeze in gravel, then there are the honey-cone thingys with mixed reviews. One thing I need is something that tractor tire chains wont eat up, seems to me cement is best for that but I havent heard of anyone with a cement driveway at a 100' plus, wonder why that is........... Next year think I'll just hire the driveway repair out to someone who knows how to shoot the breeze, trouble is they'r all in Tenn...........
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   / Advice on driveway repair/sloping/drainage #2  
Geeze - I think it looks pretty good. I would dig out and gravel fill a shallow trench to get the runoff water past your house without causing errosion. Last picture.
   / Advice on driveway repair/sloping/drainage #3  
Blacktop is only as good as its base, it looks like you have no base, just dirt. A good gravel driveway is not cheap. 29 years ago I started with a base of 6" of bank run gravel, (mostly fist sized cobbles), and topped that with 4" of crusher run. Every other year I add another inch or so of crusher run. It's held up well, I do have a steep section of driveway, but it's never washed out. Several years ago I looked into paving the 800' driveway and choked on the price, over $20K.
   / Advice on driveway repair/sloping/drainage #4  
but I havent heard of anyone with a cement driveway at a 100' plus, wonder why that is...........

Mine is somewhere between 100 and 200 ... I forget now, 180 or so. Did blacktop at one of the higher oil priced years ... cost me a little over $5K. I don't do snow, so no plowing or blowing with chained tires. Couple of bigger snowfalls (which don't happen but a year out of 5), I just shoveled a walk path or two and let the Sun warm the blacktop to melt the rest of it.
   / Advice on driveway repair/sloping/drainage #5  
If cost is a issue just grade it and get it shaped up. There are no significant ruts or holes so major work really isn稚 required.

Don’t even think of using bank run rocks. ( the nice rounded ones that are not crushed.) you don’t need geotextile fabric either.
   / Advice on driveway repair/sloping/drainage #7  
There is no crown in the drive and all the fines have washed down to the house. I would add crusher run and grade it with a crown. Concrete is expensive with no maintenance while gravel is the cheapest with the highest maintenance.
   / Advice on driveway repair/sloping/drainage #8  
What are your neighbors doing?

Frankly, the grade does not look that severe but I realize pictures can be deceiving. We have steep gravel roads here that seem to work wrt shedding rain effectively...but there is one section that is impossible to drive up when it ices up until the county hits it with sand/salt mix.
   / Advice on driveway repair/sloping/drainage #9  
Like others have said, doesn't look too bad.

By the pictures my biggest concern would be that your driveway drains to your house. If you pave it that problem will be critical. Water speed will increase.

I like that you control the water running toward your shop. But that also puts more burden on the house area.

Standing at the Jeep Liberty and looking back uphill. Is it possible to slope all of the driveway to the right and get rid of it before it gets to the house? Looks like the Electric Pole is sitting on a "hump" that would have to be dealt with?
   / Advice on driveway repair/sloping/drainage #10  
You have the classic case of a road without any drainage. The lowest part of your road, is your road.

Before spending money on materials that will just fail again, you need to widen your road and dig ditches on both sides of the road. Depending on the quality of your soil, use the material from the ditches to build up the crown of your road. Just glancing at the pictures, your road needs to come up about a foot before you can even think of adding something to top it off.

When building up your road, you need to compact it. Driving over it will help, but you also need moisture when compacting soil to get it to lock together.

Your ditches need to be as wide as possible so the water will flow through them as slow as possible. The faster the water flows, the more erosion you will have to deal with.

In my opinion, the best value for a road is recycled concrete. It's super hard, it compacts easily, and it lasts a very long time. Where I live, our other option is limestone, and that's a fairly soft stone, so it doesn't last very long. You want the rock to be a variety of different sizes all the way down to fines so when it's compacted, it will lock together and become water proof. Water will shed off of the rock and into your ditches.