Advice on first tractor purchase.

[jeff9366]

I am starting to understand the importance of tractor weight, it seem the kubota are pretty light relative to their competition and the loader lift is pretty light. Maybe Im Missing something but I read it in the brochures and it痴 all over the inter webs too. Can anyone comment on why this doesn稚 put the kubota at a disadvantage relative to comparable competitors?

RE: CK2610/3510 Vs. L2501 = 2,600 - 2,700 pounds bare tractor weight.

Smoothness of control operation is as important as lift capacity, within limits.
Some never use full FEL lift capacity due to not mounting enough counterbalance weight on the Three Point Hitch.
Heavy tractor work is done with Three Point Hitch mounted implements, not with FEL.
VIDEO: Let's Talk: Loader LIES! How specifications can be manipulated. - YouTube

Kubota has 50% market share for compact tractors in USA. Deere has 20% market share for compact tractors in USA. All the other brands mentioned here compete for remaining 30% market share.
The adventurous buy outside the mainstream. KIAs from Korea cost less than equivalent model Toyotas from Japan.

Kubota and Kioti claim to make all tractor components, less tires, in their own plants.

If you are 6' tall or wear a size 12 or larger shoe it is critical to sit on every machine to see how well it fits you.

I have owned two economy tractors. Now I owned a deluxe Kubota 'Grand L'. At age 72 the heavier weight, more spacious operating station and deluxe features make tractor opertion and implement mounting much easier.

You or the dealer will have to transport tractor for service occasionally. Tractor transport for service involves four travel segments. Cost $2.00 per mile. 40 miles X 4 = 160 X $2= $320 transportation.
((My six mile distant dealer charges me $50 for tractor transportation. 6 miles X 4 = 24 X $2 = $48.))

A quality dealer, reasonably close, available for coaching, is important for tractor neophytes. Most new tractors are delivered with a glitch or two requiring correction. My kubota dealer is six miles away. I feel my local dealer continues to add value to my equipment after seven years. Dealer proximity is less important for those experienced with tractors and qualified to perform their own maintenance.




TRACTOR BRAND LONGEVITY: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...defunct-tractor-manufacturers.html?highlight=

 

[Egon]

For the OP your original choices should work well. The pasture mowing may consider a few more Horsepower depending on time available.
Putting a tool bar on the three point, hooking low and a little lift may surprise you on pulling power. Add a full front bucket and the pulling capacity will amaze you. With the full bucket and downward pull on the rear wheels traction is greatly improved.
Loader lift capacity involves lots of different scenarios. The largest factor may be front axle design strength rather than lift capacity.

After warrantee work does not really need to be done at a dealer. Just needs competent people which many different colours have.

eg: I have green. For service work it will go to orange.

 

[hks003]

How do you like your LS? I like what I’ve read and the nearest dealer is at least 70 miles away and he’s the only one that I see anywhere around here so I haven’t seen one in person.

I'm guessing this was directed to me? I really like it. It's a G3038, which is the pre tier IV emissions version of the XG3040. It's a bare bones tractor, shuttle shift, no rear remotes or third function, no cup holders, etc. But, I needed a tractor to work and on a budget, and this fit the bill.

I bought used, so while I was looking for any tractor 30 - 40 Hp, 4x4 and with a loader, I was mostly looking for LS or Kubota. I started out looking for a new holland or Kubota, but I found out LS makes the new holland and figured I'd cut out the middle man and some cash. Those, along with John deere, are the dealers I have within 45 minutes of me, and that was a requirement since I'm no mechanic by any means. The green machine was ruled out because of the plastic hood and fenders, along with a substantial price difference even amongst used.

Like I said, I bought used, so I couldn't pass this tractor up because it didn't have luxuries. It's a solid machine that has done everything I could ask plus some (it withstood my dad's hard use...).

I test drove some of the newer LS's at the dealer, and the XR series is solid. It's got all the luxeries mine doesn't on essentially the same frame. But, if you're ok with open cab and no cup holders, the XG series can be had with an HST and you can add more hydraulic valves.

But again, I've heard good things about the Kioti line, so if the LS dealer is giving you the run around, not to mention the distance, and the kioti place is working with you and is close by, I don't think you'd regret the kioti.

Attached are a few pictures of mine.

 

[drysalty]

As I continue to read and absorb information I’m wondering if I would be better served with a L 3301, CK3510se, or 1635/ 1533 ? A couple thousand more for about 40% more power. Does anyone have any ithoughts on bumping up to the 35 HP class as a first machine?

 

[jeff9366]

Additional horsepower will mostly be helpful with PTO-powered implements. The only PTO-powered implement you listed in Post #1 is a mower. More horsepower will allow tractor to power a wider mower, therefore you can complete mowing applications in less time......but the area you want to mow is less than four acres, possibly two acres, net of house, garage, driveway, etc.

For ground engagement tasks and sheer 'grunt' tractor weight is the key metric, although there has to be a certain balance between tractor weight and tractor horsepower.

When considering a tractor purchase, bare tractor weight first, tractor horsepower second and (narrowly) rear wheel ballast third.

Within subcompact and compact tractor categories a significant tractor capability increase requires a bare tractor weight increase of 50%. It takes a 100% increase in bare tractor weight to elicit MY-OH-MY!


With four cleared acres and aspiration of clearing more slowly, I think your original choices adequate.

The diversity of opinions offered on T-B-N is its strength. Eventually you have to decide yourself.


VIDEO: So you want to TRADE UP for a new Tractor? - TMT - YouTube

 

[drysalty]

My only reason for considering the 35 horse options is the possibility of changes to the usage in the future. The wooded section is somewhat hilly, it’s not what I consider steep by any means but I wouldn’t want to find out that I need more grunt to pull a load up one of the in the future. This goes back to the notion of buying your second tractor first.

 

[TheMadOne]

My only reason for considering the 35 horse options is the possibility of changes to the usage in the future. The wooded section is somewhat hilly, it’s not what I consider steep by any means but I wouldn’t want to find out that I need more grunt to pull a load up one of the in the future. This goes back to the notion of buying your second tractor first.

I always felt the L3301 was overpowered for its weight. I obviously never tried the L2501 on my hills, so I can't say if it would have bogged down, but I almost never ran out of power before traction.

 

[duffer]

I too, was looking for my first tractor in the 25-25+ hp range. Checked out all the brands within reason around me. Thankfully, I ran into a dealer who really honed in on the kind of work I would do now, and in 3-5 years. He told me a 30 hp would work, which is what I was leaning toward. But he suggested going to to the 38 hp range, because of the added weight, bigger FEL capacity and lift, and hp at the PTO.

Luckily there was a deal on the 38 hp model that let me buy it for essentially the same price as the 30 hp model. I am ever thankful that I stepped up.

If your budget allows for it, go with the heavier and more powerful version. You won't regret it.

 

[jjp8182]

Since it seems most of the tractor advice is pretty much covered, when it comes to the FEL it's worth finding out what size/capacity bucket is stock for the tractor as that will likely tell you more about the practical lifting capacities than the spec sheets.

The other thing to pay attention to on the FELs is the reach height and distances, and consider what makes sense for your applications.

Overall, it really comes down to determining what your applications/tasks are (or will be) and how quickly you want to do them (and if they impose and absolutes on performance/size). It's also worth keeping in mind that power is great for running the PTO, but all the power in the world doesn't matter if you can't transmit it to the ground (which is where weight, tire type, 2WD vs. 4WD all play a role). Then it's just a matter of budget and quality of dealer (which is important since you'll likely be working with them as long as you own the tractor).

Edit: Just for illustrative purposes, I've had times where I've had the tractor in Low, 4WD on, the rear differential locked and had all four wheels spinning ...hasn't happened often, but it has happened in a few different soil conditions and turf types. In pretty much all cases it's happened when trying to do more than the tractor could handle all at once. I've also maxed out the lifting capacity a time or two. However, I'm completely happy with the tractor I have as does what I bought it for, and most of the time I've run into limitations I've been able to work around them. .....which for me is just a fact of life as even I had a much larger machine, I'd probably find harder tasks, or attempt to do my existing ones at the limits of the machine. ...... so as I hinted at above, sometimes it's good to have an idea of how fast you want/need to get something done, and then start figuring out how fast your budget will allow you to do them (which may ultimately drive the size of the machine to buy).

The only other thought is that sometimes it's also worth looking at other types of machines (e.g. skid steers, compact wheel loaders, compact telehandlers, etc. ) just to verify that a tractor is indeed the best option for doing the tasks you need/want to do.

 

[drysalty]

I did a run way down south today and looked at the LS dealer I had emailed with. I thought the machine was ok but the dealership didn’t do a lot for me. I also looked in on two other dealers on the way home. I checked on Mahindra and New Holland and refreshed my memory on the 1626 and 1635 which I am still thinking about and then I ended up at the Kioti dealer. I think I’m going to end up at the Kioti dealer. They just seem to want to do business with me without a lot of salesmanship baloney. Plus the tractors themselves appeal to me. I’m back to pondering about the relative benefits of putting a bunch of options on a 2610 or to just buy a 3510SE with all the bells and whistles already there and getting the extra power should I ever grow into an application that required it.